Some us that couldn't make the trip over to help are also wondering:)
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Well, not much to say about the Comet. I'm not really sure what to do next so she sits in the driveway waiting. I did go out a few days ago,sat in her to listen to a new CD, sounded great but just made me sad. Been forced to drive the Falcon....now it needs a head gasket ( foam in the oil cap). If it's not one thing it's the other. Anyways my guess is the next step for the Comet is a valve adjustment with the car hot, after that I don't know???? Kinda still in the same boat with no mechanic I trust. I'll just keep putting one foot in front of the other and see what happens😀
Hey Gina let me ask some of the rakers club guys to see who they might use. There has got to be a decent reliable reasonably priced mechanic some where up here. :bicker: how was the compression check?
It's that or tech day in port Townsend!!! I'll drive mine over!
The carb core I bought is looking pretty good, so I think I will have a very decent automatic choke 1100 tomorrow. I also have another I can build using parts from that one that is on the Comet now, so we'll swap them out.
So yes, next we need to check the valves again cold, and then hot. If checked cold, and they are less than the .017 I set them at, then chances (depending on how much less they are) then it's possible why it runs good cold and then worse the warmer it gets.
To make sure they get adjusted correctly (and in case I'm not able to get there first), here's how to do it:
1) Rotate the engine until the distributor is pointing to #1 and the crank pointer is at top dead center (0 on the pointer).
2) With the distributor cap off, make a mark where the rotor is pointing as #1 top dead center.
3) Make a mark 180 degree across the distributor.
4) Make 4 more marks between these marks (2 before and 2 after the 180 degree mark) to divide it all into 6 even pie slices. These marks now represent when each cylinder is going to fire based upon the firing order.
5) The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4 and the rotor spins clock-wise.
6) Set at 1 (timing mark still at zero) you can adjust the first two valves.
7) Rotate to the next mark (distributor going clockwise) and adjust #5 valves. Then next is #3, and when you are at #6 you should again have the time mark at zero on the crank again. Crank rotates twice for one rotation of the distributor.
8) Continue around until you have adjusted them all cold to about .017 cold (like I did before) and then bolt the cover on and warm it up. Check them hot same as above and the hot adjustment needs to be .016 for intake and exhaust.
We also need to double-check the point gap or dwell (.024-.026) or 35-38 dwell.
If it looks like Miles can do this I will ship over the carb just in case. PM me with your shipping address Gina just so I know where to ship it - or where to come if I can arrange a trip over.
Well, here it is. This the carb to replace the carb you have. It was in pretty good shape, so needed very little hard work. So I can send it over - just to give you the option of having Miles put it on after he adjusts the valves - if he adjusts the valves. Or it can just be there kept with the car in case I get there first or someone else does. Don't get rid of the other one. I'll need it for parts to make another one I need parts for.
Roger, looks great! Sent you a PM with my address but did you get it? Did not seem like it would send??? Let me know. Thanks again and again😃
I hope by now that carburetor is over on the other side of the pond. Would just hate it if that didn't make it there in one piece... or at all. Please let me know.
Yes it made it all in one piece today 😊Miles has to work tomorrow but he should have enough time to put it on😊 Thanks again, I'll keep you posted, can't wait to go for a cruise!!!!🚕
No good news to report, the one I got in the mail would not start the car. Miles took the top off the other one and put it on the new one and the car starts. I don't recall the peticulars as what was funky that made him switch tops. So it runs at high speeds ok but is chalumpy at lower speeds, runs very rough. We are investigating jet sizes but really not sure. One site said to run it 20 minutes and check the color of the plugs. If they were white to size the jet up and if they were black size down.Well the plug was white so now to find jets???? I have no idea if we are on the right path.😁That's all for now.
We're you able to drive it or just run it in the driveway? Just curious if it has any power under load?
Also did Miles mess with the air fuel adjustment? Might be able to fatten it up that way before you swap jets ( if you can find any).
Just a thought keep us posted. :(
We went down the highway, runs ok and no sputtering at 40 to 50 miles an hour but misses bad at all speeds under 40 or so.He adjusted everything that could be.
Do you have a vacuum gauge in you arsenal? You could use that and "tune" the carb till you have max vacume.
Sounds like the valves may need tweeting after all....:bicker:
No I don't, I've never heard of that tool. I am going to search for a shop close by to do the valves unless Roger gets here first. I was gonna have Miles try doing it but he needs to do the head gasket SOON on the Falcon and he does so much for his momma already! Did you ever get a recommendation from anybody in Rakers?
Nothing super gleaming, they were all this guy is good but.... So I'll keep looking. I have a customer of mine that does have a big shop here in Sequim but his prices are a bit high. He helped me fix a small issue when I first got my Delivery running.. But I always have powder coating to trade out..
It's hard to imagine why it didn't run. The top on the other one was pretty warped, but I found extra-thick gaskets - so maybe Miles used the new one.
I hope Miles knows how to adjust the fuel mixture. And I'd still check the valves before proceeding any further.
I wish I could work out getting over there sooner rather than later, but it is looking probably the weekend of the 28th. Any of those days (including Fri the 28th) work?
:confused:
I work on the 28th but have the week-end off, I will keep you posted of any progress.
I'm wondering to myself last night (as I'm proceeding to pull my entire motor out of my station wagon after finally determining it has problems) whether the "plug" I put into the top of that new carburetor is the thing that caused it to run bad. These carbs used to have a vent that would open up on acceleration and I'm lacking some of the plugs they've been putting into these rather than installing the vents (almost all rebuilds plugs this port). I opted to use a 1/4" chrome Allen screw and block that port tight - thinking the vent in the venturi would be plenty to feed the float bowl. But maybe not.
Also, these carbs are prone to stick the float valve, which is why you almost always see the tops all beat up. Might be while shipping it the seat stuck because of how it was sitting while in transit - and fuel pressure didn't pop it open.
I'll see how it works out for the first of March. Do you have undercover area to work on this - or is it out on the driveway?
Steve, I may be bringing you out a bunch of stuff to coat for me too from my wagon.
O.K. Here's the update on the Comet. I got a referral for a shop in Sequim and took the car in today. He called me this afternoon and said he adjusted the valves and said the car was running lean. A rebuild will be done again on the carb(not really sure why since it's already been done) and if it still doesn't work he has lots of 6 cylinder Mustangs and he will MAKE something work😃 Seems there is a light at the end of the tunnel after all, I just can't wait to drive her every day🚕. So it looks like you are off the hook Roger for coming out next week end, I sure appreciate all you have done!! I'll do a final update when I get her back, well nothing is final on these cars is it?
Those Autolites are not coming with a lot of "jet varieties" so far. Most have the same number.
So you have two carbs right now from me (of which I still need at least one complete one back) and you can have the mechanic look to see what jet sizes they are supplied with - and I will look at all of them I have - and we can see what's up. The power valve in these also may be a contributing factor, but there are not so many books on them, so I'm not sure how to do anything with them other than re-kits them and look for vacuum leaks. I would also think the last carb I send (before the swap Miles did to it) would have been the best - it was in really good shape. I think it was the bolt I put in that may have been the issue, or just the needle valve got stuck. Make sure this mechanic is aware of that. Both carbs were fresh.
I'm pretty sure I would have expected these 1100 Autolite carbs to run richer rather than lean.
If he ends up not using either of these carbs, they cost a pretty penny, so don't let them get away.
Please keep us up to date.
Ok I'm letting the cat out of the bag. The Comet lives again one of our local Sequim shops got the valves adjusted and the carb tuned. I got the privilege of test (joy) driving this beauty and she ran great.
Gina sorry but couldn't hold out any longer. Give us an update on how she's doing. I still need to call rick but got swamped at the shop and forgot. I'll get that done Monday.
Spring is getting closer time to tidy up all those projects. Hope to see everyone this year. I'm ready!?!
Just couldn't wait, could ya Steve! You probably knew what all your Christmas presents were as a kid before you opened them.
Well here is the update....it does not "cold start" like Marv said it would. Well that's not true, it did once. He wanted perfection which is 2 pumps, turn it over, it starts and runs at high idle then you romp on the gas a bit and it kicks down. I have to give it more gas than 2 pumps and crank it over more than a couple turns. I tried to tell him it wouldn't ever be perfect like that but he wouldn't listen to me because well he knows best, right? Anyways I have had discussions with lots of you in the past about automatic chokes and mentioned my Bronco working perfect and the comments back were" was it fuel injected?" That's why it worked correctly.
I am totally happy with it so far, it's good enough for me. Has good get up and go and runs smooth.Tomorrow I am going on about a 70 drive with it so I will see how it does🚙 Stay Tuned
She ran great on her first long journey! I also did 3 pumps on the cold start instead of 2 and it worked the way it suppose to!
Now to fix something else...has anyone converted vacuum wipers to electric? I know nothing about what it takes to do it.
I'm pretty sure you will need an electric Falcon/Comet wiper assembly that will replace the vacuum units up under the dash. Probably a switch as well so they will park properly.
Best bet would be eBay unless someone here has a spare. Look for the 2-speed option if you can find it.
Or better yet, intermittent wipers are nice in the typical drizzle we get around here. Here's a nice write-up on using a Bronco setup:
http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs...ELD_WIPERS.pdf
Gina, Gina, Gina. Guess what I have sitting on my shelf. I believe I have a two speed unit that I kept from that last Ranchero I sold off. I kept a few key pieces off it and the wiper assembly was part of it. This was when I was having issues putting mine together. I'll double check it.
Congrats on the first long trip I'm glad she's finally running for you. I could tell by the smile you had that you were pleased when you picked it up last week. Now keep it running and do the things needed but not the stuff to take her off the road. [thumb]:shift:
Hello, Gina.
I think that 3 pumps may actually be correct. The owner's manual for my 63 Falcon says that for an automatic choke and a cold engine "press the accelerator pedal three times all the way to the floor" (see attached photo). If the engine is warm, press the throttle 1/4 down and turn the key.
We want to see day trip pictures of the Comet toodeling around Washington state!
Attachment 3600
Ok, I will take some pictures for you. I always enjoy yours so I will return some joy back.Wow that's amazing you found that in your literature. I love stuff like that.
Good deal Steve. I will be at you're shop on Wednesday to drop off the carb for Roger. It will be around 9:00, gotta vet appt. for my dog that's going downhill so be by after it.
Cool, I'll try to round up that wiper stuff and make sure it works. I never tested it in the car but I can bench test it pretty easy. [thumb]
I've added 2-speed wipers to both Falcons so far, but in different ways.
The wagon got a stock 2-speed setup from another 65 Falcon. The motor is slightly different and uses the other set of "3 holes" in the bracket. But I had all the bits and used none of the single-speed parts for it.
The Ranchero received one made from the brackets and transmission arms of a single-speed wiper setup (probably the ones I pulled from the wagon so long ago) and the motor and intermittent switch from a 72 F100 and a 80 Bronco respectively.
The F100 2-speed motor is an easy find and I've had no issues installing them as long as I have the Falcon rotating parts and arms. But the 2-speed and intermittent switches are yanked and often gone long before I ever see them. I have found 3 of them so far though at the local bone yards. I have one in the Ranchero and added one to my 67 F100 and have the 3rd awaiting entry under the wagon dash to replace the stock 2-speed switch. Someday. Never been a big priority, as I don't intend to drive it in the rain.
In all, the stock brackets and transmission/arms for the electric wiper Falcon are must to convert from vacuum to electric (single-speed or dual-speed). Going to the dual speed - if you're going to swap at all - is a no-brainer. Your vacuum wipers are already intermittent (in a way) and you'll be driven crazy with the single-speed wiper that is just a little too fast most of the time and not fast enough some of the time. Adding the intermittent switch almost makes the Falcon seem like a new car when you're caught in the rain. Almost.
Just so you know.
Well, the Comet didn't run good for very long so it's back to the shop again in the morning. It's hard for me to describe the symptoms but it has hesitation at all speeds now, started out just a chug once in a while and has progressed. The mechanic is sure it's not the carb so we will see😟 I will keep you posted.
Driving a 50 year old car as a daily driver is not the same as it might have been 50 years ago. Most of us have taken steps to make cars we don't even drive daily run more reliably, and I suspect you should be seriously considering this as well.
50 years ago the parts were all new and made in the USA. Now, they are either 50 years old or made in China.
You should consider eliminating the points and condenser and going to a Pertronix Igniter system (about the only system you can add to a 170 without doing deeper work). On a car that was running well at the time I did this upgrade. The improvement was dramatic. Plus, no adjustments, wear, tear - ever - make it a pain-free upgrade for the long-term. There is probably still the wire we installed to hook it up under the dash and in the engine bay.
On a side note, a story in this regard: I went to a regional meet in Oregon a few years ago and decided to continue south towards Grants Pass to visit my mother. Not long into the southern mountain passes my wagon started behaving badly. Bucking bronco on any hill. I barely made it to Grants Pass and instead of visiting my mom, I worked on the car. I replaced just about everything I could get my hands on locally. Nothing I replaced fixed it. One thing I put back in was points and condenser. I couldn't get a carb, nor did I have the means to rebuild it there, so I decided to nurse it back to Seattle. Not far out of town I said to myself "this is worse than it was coming down" - I mean I could barely get to 30 miles an hour on the freeway, whereas coming down it only ran bad trying to pull the hills. So, at a rest stop on the side of the freeway, I pulled the points and condenser and reinstalled the Pertronix. The change was noticeable and I was able to resume with the same condition I had coming down, but was able to at least pull the car to freeway speeds (except on the passes). The issue turned out to be the carburetor, but the moral of the story is that the Pertronix kit made even a bad carburetor less of an issue.
Now onto your stuff...
You have a 50 year old coil. You should replace it. The coil may be fine, now, but this is a daily driver and coils of this era were oil filled and their life isn't infinite. It may fail at any moment and the cost of a new one is cheaper than a tow.
You have a carburetor that, as you know, is as finicky as they can be - designed to run on 100% gas and not 90% gas/10% ethanol (AKA water). Though your options are limited here, as I've labored over before (both physically and verbally) they should be considered, at best, a concern for those wanting to drive the car daily. I'm hoping it hasn't failed this soon though.
Having put some miles on the car now, you may want him to verify the valves are still adjusted. New valves "seat themselves" and clearances tighten when they do so.
To recap, I would:
1) Upgrade to a Pertronix ignition system: http://tinyurl.com/ku5sqjs
2) Upgrade to a new coil. You can get the yellow-top coil to keep it period correct:
http://www.npdlink.com/store/product...1831-2871.html
3) Check the valves again.
4) Hope the carburetor is good, but consider it may be needed to have a carb shop (one who has a flow-bench available) rebuild it - and put a guarantee on it. Steve has a shop he uses specifically for this - and I think they send them out to have the work done. There are also ads on ebay for restoration services of the 1100 Autolite.