Replacing Carpet

[Jim Jarriel]

I'm ready to install new carpet with a noise reducing insulation on the floor. I would appreciate any insight on the best process. Do I glue down the insulation? Do I glue the carpet to the insulation. How does the carpet stay held down?

Thanks for your help,

Jim

[pbrown]

Pull the seats and old carpet and lay down some Dynomat Extreme sound deadening mat. Clean the sheet metal and check for rust while you're in there.

The new carpet will have jute padding already glued to the back and it just lays in the car. Gravity will hold it down.

[redfalken]

Definitely put down the sound deadening material. It makes a huge difference with the road noise. Before you put that down, if you have any surface rust areas you may want to coat them with some POR-15.

I don't know if it was necessary but I sprayed a light coat of 3M Spray Adhesive down before laying the carpet. Just spray it on the floor surface and not the carpet back, let it tack up for a few minutes and the bond won't be permanent if you ever need to lift the carpet.

[Luva65wagon]

Jim,

Of course there is carpet and then there is carpet. If the carpet is premolded it almost always has the jute backing glued to it and fits like a glove. If you are laying your own, well that's a different story. What have you decided on? Premolded is the way to go since it will be pretty seamless.

All the suggestions of cleaning and sound deadening material is good, though plan to pay out the nose for Dynamat. You can get a similar material from someplace like Wesco or a good Napa with a paint store inside (like at 128th and Aurora in North Lynnwood/South Everett. But that's still about $30 for about 6 1' square pieces. I think in my wagon I have about $300 worth of Dynamat. :eek:

Though I can't always find it, I have found once a material very close (if not exactly the same) in the hardware store that is ice dam material used on house roofing projects. Dynamat (like mine) is a tar-based tile with adhesive back. Shouldn't really cost more than a buck a sheet to make, but that's never why things cost what they do. The principle is to deaden the panels, which in reality full coverage isn't really needed, though most everyone does it anyway.

There really isn't any need to glue carpet down. The seats, the sill plates, and the kick panels do a lot of that and as Pat said gravity.

Be sure to post some pictures too! [thumb]

[redfalken]

I bought some FatMat that's very similar to DynaMat. $129 for 100 sq. ft. I still have enough to do the trunk someday. Got it on eBay for a little less but you can also get it from their website:

http://www.fatmat.com/bulk/fatmat/100.html

[Luva65wagon]

That's a pretty good price. Too bad. I don't need any anymore... now. :(

[pbrown]

The early Falcons didn't come with molded carpet. It was cut and sewn. Mine fit perfectly. It came from Jake over at OFI.

I bought two bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme on eBay for about $120 each. I did the entire interior and the trunk. I have enough left over to do the roof when I redo the head liner.

[Jim Jarriel]

Thanks for all the insight.

I already have the molded carpet and the deading mat which I purchased from Dearborn Classics.

I plan on installing it this weekend and will let you know how it goes.

Thanks again y'all!

Jim

[Jim Jarriel]

Does anyone know where I can buy POR 15 locally or something similar? I checked Napa and they have:

Also any suggestions for removing remnents of old pad, adhesive etc. to prep the metal before applying the rust treatment?

Thanks, Jim

Extend Metal Rust Treatment


http://partimages2.genpt.com/partimages/232254.jpg (http://javascript<b></b>: ViewImage())
Item#: BK 7651232
http://www.napaonline.com/images/u_clear.gif
Price: $12.69
http://www.napaonline.com/images/u_clear.gif
Attributes:
Size:16 oz
Product Features:Use On Rusted Surfaces
Brushes On White & Chemically Reacts w/ Rust To Form Tough
Black Polymer Barrier That Locks Out Future Rust
Can Be Sanded & Painted Over w/ Primers
Ideal For Home Or Shop Us
Application:Removes & Destroys Rust
Prevents New Rust
Dry Time:60 Minutes
Manufacturer:Permatex
Hazards or Warnings:See Product Label

[pbrown]

I used a wire brush on a drill motor and some stiff putty knives.

Be sure to protect your glass from the inside. I launched an old wingnut into the windshield on mine :WHATTHE:. Now it has new glass.

[redfalken]

I'm pretty sure I've seen POR-15 at Action Auto but if not, you might try Wesco Autobody.

[pbrown]

Also consider replacing your body seam sealer at the same time.

1) Clean the floor and remove all seam sealer and surface rust.
2) Check for thin spots with a pick hammer.
3) Replace any sheetmetal with MIG welder and 18G sheet steel.
4) Coat entire floor with POR15.
5) Apply seam sealer with calking gun.
6) Install sound deadning material (Dynamat or similar)
7) Install carpet.

[Jim Jarriel]

Thanks Patrick for the step by step.

I'm going to clean the floor. But as far the rust goes, I was under the impression that the POR-15 kills the rust and makes it parts of the coating so you don't have to remove the rust. And wouldn't you calk before applying the POR 15 to seal the calking?

[pbrown]

You need to get the loose surface rust off first. Use POR15 and then seam sealer. POR15 won't stick to the seam sealer.

[Jim Jarriel]

Do you recommend a specific brand of sealer and do you think I can get it at Action Auto when I pick up the POR15?

[pbrown]

Wesco will have the seam sealer. Ask the counter guys what to use.

[Jim Jarriel]

Thanks for all your help Patrick. I'm heading over to Wesco In Mtlk Terrace after work.

[Luva65wagon]

There is a bigger Napa at 128th and 99 in S. Everett that sells POR-15 products. They also have a body-shop supply inside so all the Wesco like things are there too. It's just west of 99 from where the Home Depot is -- just next door to Tacoma Screw.