Wagon/Ranchero fuel tank modifications

[Loren]

Having never owned a wagon I was doing some research to locate the correct fuel tank and sending unit. I came across a few articles dealing with spills while filling up and overflow if the car is parked on a certain angle. I am wondering if these issues are common on wagons and Rancheros, and if they are significant enough to make some modifications to the tank.
I pulled out my tank and I noticed for starters the drain plug is on the top of the tank. In some of the articles I read, they mentioned because the filler tube is almost level with the center of the tank leakage back through the filler pipe onto the quarter panel can occur while parked on a certain angle or going around a corner. Are these real conditions that happen regularly?
I also was wondering where the rubber vent hose that is connected to the metal pipe that disappears into the inside quarter panel goes. I can't imagine it vents into the inside of the rear wheel well.
If I were to put a ''T'' into the drain plug hole and connect the vent hose to the side of it, and then add another 6'' piece of rubber hose on the top port of the ''T'' would that help me at all?
Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone has some ideas, as the tank is out now and I would only like to do this job once, if there is anything I need to do. Thanks to all in advance......

[Luva65wagon]

Long posts are fine. I've no doubt already won the prize for long posts. Here, let me explain.

If the name of the car starts with F and ends with N, then it has a problem with fuel filler stains, filling, burping, all of the above. Having had a few Falcons - all of them, 1 Wagon, 1 Ranchero, 1 Sedan (my first), 1 hardtop... I can attest to this issue having merit. Venting is only part of the problem, I'm afraid. And I really don't think anyone has ever "solved" the issue - when... all the parts are original and fully functional. And I'm going to admit to you, I've never searched other brand/models' forums for tank-fill/body staining issues. I'd venture a guess the issue has more to do with fill-ups than angle/drip. Fuel level is spill level, and you are not going to have fuel at that level, unless you are upside down. Fumes on vented caps can also condense fuel on the area of the fill.

I feel the real issue, with staining (anyway), is fuel speed delivery. The faster you fill a tank, the faster you have to exhaust any pressure. Of course, cars today are designed for a massive recycle, or capture, of fuel pressure - all to keep them-there fumes from floating to that-there ozone layer. A good thing, I say. But because the industry moved to self-serve and mankind's impatience in life, well... they did two things: 1) increased the pump pressure to cut a few oh so very precious seconds from the time it takes to fill 'er up, and 2) made the nozzle smaller (with higher pressure = uh, velocity increase?); all to help them with 'mechanical incompatible syndrome' from pumping leaded fuel into their new BMW or mini-van. Can we say, "New catalytic converter?" (with apologies to those of you who've recently received a $10,000 bill from their muffler shop because someone hack'ed yours off outside your house at 4 in the morning), but that smaller fill nozzle was to circumnavigate that potential and no other. And with faster fuel delivery for those who are in a hurry to fritter away the hour in an off-hand way.

But dang't if that didn't just start playing havoc with our __________________(your car name here) - they're suffering from fuel blemish.!!!

Now obviously you have a collector car - and doing a late model filler/door and a new plastic tank (and anything else you might want to re-engineer), well, it isn't going to be you're go-to solution. So then, what to do?

First choice for many is to relocate the fill. Easy if you have a hardtop or sedan. Not so easy on a Ranchero, but it's doable if you've got dem'skilz. A real re-engineer of the filler is needed on wagons. Period.

Two of us (here) have done a full exterior relocations on a round-body wagon/Ranchero using vintage Jaguar fills. Round body's are easier than square, but the main thing you're trying to do is, 1) get your fuel entry as high above the tank and as straight as possible, and 2) create a better vent system. Ranchero's can, at least, relocate the fill into the bed. Sedans/hardtops can relocate into the trunk - if (AND THIS IS A BIG IF) the cap is NON-vented. Note: This job should be done with full attention to not-cutting-any-corners. And it offers the advantage of a nozzle-almost-in-the-tank fill experience and negation of any appreciable fill neck. But you can't hold a conversation at the gas-pump. Basically, you only want to trust the auto-shut-off on the gas-pump with the tank fill out of the car.

Here's couple I've done or helped with (and done).

7765 7766 7767

Of course, shy of modification the best thing to do is to make sure all the venting is present and blown out with compressed air. Or add it. Not uncommon to have critters find comfort up a nifty little tube-house. On my Ranchero (63) there was a vent tube that looped up into the rear-quarter and then went back down and out a hole down yonder. On my wagon (65) there was no vent. So I added one. And honestly, it was before the advent of my phone taking pictures of everything I do on my Falcon(s) days. I do so much on auto-pilot I don't always recall the things I've done, more than simply knowing I've done it. Picture taking on phones has had me staring down the various dates and times of things I've done and made me wonder. "OK, didn't I also have a job back then? Where'd I find time to do all that!?"

I know also, of a tech article on the FCA club forum showing a guy modifying he innerds of his filler to accept the smaller nozzles to restrict much of the burb issues while filling. So there's that potential.

So that's sort of all I know about the subject.

How'd I do?

[Loren]

Morning Roger. Thanks for the info....I like the idea of the relocation to a higher spot on the quarter panel, but having just spent a whole whack of money on body work and paint, that is not going to happen.
What do you think of the idea of connecting the vent hose to a ''T'' where the drain plug is so the drain plug is then venting from there and the also original vent exit, but it would be a little higher in the tank.
Where does the original vent tube dump after it connects back to the metal tube that disappears into the inner rear quarter panel?
If all else fails, I guess I will just be taking my time filling the car, and make sure the gas cap is very snug fitting.
I have added a couple of pics of the car as it sits now. It is dusty but I won't wash (scratch) it until I am ready to wax it for the first time.
As always, thanks for the help.776877697769

[Falcongek]

Hi.
Welkome to the experience of filling up your falcon.
My workaround is not inserting the pistol alle the way and keep a close watch on the filler neck. You should see the fuel comming up and you have just a second to release the pistol. Before it burps. ��
Now that vent hose into the chassis is the rear axle vent.
I would not connect that to the tank vent.
On tffn three were a few who inserted a modern fuel filler neck inlet restrictor with good results
Good luck.

[Loren]

Hi Falcongek....Thanks for the reply,,,,I blew out the vent line and it end up high beside the filler tube inlet. I know about the rear end axle vent line. I guess it is just a matter of being very careful when filling up

[Falcongek]

BTW, I just looked at your 3 pics on a normal screen in stead of a phone, what a nice looking falcon. Very nice colour!!

[Loren]

Thanks. I think the red pin striping really compliments the red interior.

[Tom P]

I despise having a fill cap in the box floor and want to use the stock cap location on my 62. I also moved the springs inward so a normal tank doesn't even fit any more. I figured on using up the dead area above the tank to the box floor too. So I plan to make a tank 16 x 32 x 9" deep to fit between the two crossribs that sit above the stock tank. Fill neck will be small diameter like late model cars and snake through a hole in the frame rail and another in the rib to the tank. Hopefully!

[Loren]

Hi Tom. That sounds like a good idea. My springs are still in the stock location. For now, because I haven't owned a wagon, and experienced the problems others have had, I will drive it as is for and see what happens. If there are problems I can hopefully modify the tank and filler system.

[Panzer 14]

Tom,
I have the same issue. My 61 Sedan Delivery has been mini-tubbed and the springs have been moved inboard also. I tried to squeeze the stock tank in between the springs, but it rubs a little and the rear spring perch hits the filler neck when I hit a big bump or a dip in the road. I'd like to fabricate or buy a fuel cell and do what you are talking about doing. My question is..how would you handle the sending unit? Some fuel cells come with a sending unit that is made for the cell, but I haven't been able to find one in the size we need.

[Luva65wagon]

Here's a pretty good site to hunt-down alternative filler necks and caps, etc. Maybe you can find something you can use to relocate to the stock position, if desired, but have a true unleaded nozzle opening with a nice vent. Have a look-see.

https://www.fillernecksupply.com/

[Panzer 14]

Thank you Roger. That's perfect. I'm sure I can make something from that place work. [thumb]

[Tom P]

Tom,
My question is..how would you handle the sending unit? I have an aftermarket Stewart Warner one that should work. Or adapt a factory one. I will have a fitting in the bottom for the fuel outlet.

[Panzer 14]

Thanks Tom. I was considering modifying the factory one. I might give that a try if I determine the tank dimensions that I need.

[Tom P]

Guess I should update this. I made the tank and it's in the car. Just working on the filler now. I have a stainless capless 1 1/4" diameter one from a 2015 Fusion and will adapt that. The hole I made through the frame will need to be larger, like a horizontal oval, to get the filler pipe through. The vent will be a 1/2" line which should hopefully stop sloshback. I will also have to make an opening door to hide the capless deal.
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[Tom P]

So here it is mostly done. The small diameter filler goes through a hole in the frame rail behind the shackle. That way it goes into the tank at the top rather than half way up the side. The capless deal is bulky so the actual pipe isn't very long. To avoid any cutting the filler sits at a downward angle to the quarter and I used a piece of ABS plumbing drain glued on to adapt that angle. I made a filler door out of a cut down 2010 F150 plastic one. Made a hinge from a hardware store one since there is a little over 1/4" depth to work with and no late model cars have anything compact enough. Just need to gap the door and clean up the hinge welds.
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[Tom P]

So that hinge didn't work, door wouldn't open wide enough to get a gas nozzle in without hitting it so I needed to cut slots into the body to have the hinge ahead of the fuel door opening. It should work now. Because the car's outside and spring hasn't sprung enough i've been working on other stuff but plan to get the car driveable this week to test the new tank out.