I need a little help

[gtaroger]

I pulled my column out and replaced about all the parts in the column. I put it together and found that the horn doesn't work. I found that the copper contact ring is worn out. The copper is wore off the ring where the button for the power pin rides on.I have a aftermarket steering wheel and adapter. I have been trying to find some one who sells the contact ring. I really don't want to buy a new adapter.The adapter I have is a Billet Specialty with nine holes to bolt the wheel on.Do you think someone sells this part or I will have to buy the adapter?

[Luva65wagon]

GTARoger, Can you post a picture of the part that is worn? I'll give it a go to see if I can help find a solution, but seeing it might help.

[gtaroger]

I took a picture of it on my phone. Couldn't get it to down load to my computer. I said to heck with it. I went over to NPD and bought a new adapter. I installed it. I still can't get the horn to work. I've got everything else working. I found a loose wire under the dash that's solid white,When I ground it the horn blows.So back to the drawing board. GTARoger

[Luva65wagon]

Well... it sounds like that white wire needs to find it's way up the column to the horn button, which is hopefully a short-to-ground switch; since grounding the wire is what makes the horn honk.

[gtaroger]

I think you are right about the wire.I think the guy that owned the car before me did a little wiring of his own design.The horn button was set up with one wire plugged to one of the wires going to the contact ring and a wire to the body of the horn button going to bolt to the adapter .I found a couple wires cut under the dash. I first have to figure out what each of the wires were for.One wire was a solid yellow I put it back to the plug to supply constant power. One of the turn signal plug holes was emptyFrom what I can tell should feed the horn.There's another wire that I need to strip back the black tape to see what color the wire is. It looked black ,but when I wiped it off to clean it it looks white. That's the one that when grounded blows the horn. There's been a little rewiring done on this car in the past. It looks like I will have to do a little cleaning up of the wiring that was done in the past.From what I learned in 64 they used one wire to ground the horn button. In 65 there are two wires two the horn button.

[gtaroger]

Well Roger you were right. Today I ran the loose white wire to the empty slot in the turn signal switch plug.I used the wire that goes to the inter part of the contact ring and ran it to the horn button and a wire from the horn button to a bolt on the adapter. The horn worked for a couple tries. The horn took a crap.I'm going the auto junk yard tomorrow and find me the loudest set of horns I can find. I bought a set off a older Lincoln Town Car on my last build.Worked great and cost $2.12.Now to the line lock and cutouts.

[Luva65wagon]

Glad you got it figured out. I'm pretty sure you may also have a horn relay in 1964, so before buying horns (unless you really want new horns) make sure it's not the relay. It's generally just below the voltage regulator, if you have one, and will have three wires to it.

[gtaroger]

My car has no voltage regulator .At least not on the fender wells. It has a 150 amp one wire alternator. i think the regulator is built in to it.I tested the horn off the car and it's shot. I went to the junk yard today and bought two sets of horns. One set is off a BMW and the other is off Explorer . I tested both sets, and they both work. At $2.00 a set you can't go wrong.Now I have to decide which set to use.Man have I gotten slow in my old age. It is getting so that it takes me for ever to do a job that should take me a couple hours.Oh well, at least I can still do it.For now.GTARoger

[Luva65wagon]

Typically it's on the drivers side front core support (left side of radiator). Just putting it out there as it can begin to fail (it's a relay) and this can cause a horn to fail. That ohms law stuff. Horns draw a lot of current and if the contact in the relay is getting bad the horn won't function right and may overheat.

I'm sure the Ford horns will sound more American. LOL.

[gtaroger]

Thanks! I will take a look tomorrow. If it doesn't have one I think I will wire one in. Not that much work.Still waiting on the powdercoating of trim that goes around the inside of the wind shield and the speaker grill. All of these parts were pitted real bad. Checked on have chromed and they were way to high for my taste.I'm having all the window trim around the inside of the wind shield powder coated matt black.I think I will pull the steering column again. I'm not happy with how solid the column fits to the floor.I think I will go with a new style mount.As long as I have it finished by next month I will be ok with that.A few friends and I plan on going to Milan Dragway next month . I have no ideal how well my car will do. My buddies cars are all for drag racing. My friend Bruce's car runs 9's. Last year he had a problem with the brake peddle and ended up in the sand trap. Went all the way through the sand trap and hit the fence.Took the one peace glass front end off it and did some other damage.Compared to him if I have a brake problem, I will do a Fred Flintstone stop.

[gtaroger]

Two steps foward one step back.I had the column in and every thing working. I took it for a short ride and the right turn signal stopped working. I went home and pulled the steering wheel. One of the spring loaded contacts had broken. It was the one that goes to the outside of the contact ring.I looked every thing over. It seems that the new wheel adapter I bought at NPD had the wire sticking out a little out from the solder . It stuck out enough to hit the spring loaded contact. I grinded it off to clear the contact. I had to drive back to NPD and have them exchange the turn signal switch for a new one.That's 50 miles round trip. Then I put the new one in. It would not turn to the left. I pulled it out and took it back for a exchange.I got it in now and it works. Spent a good portion of the day driving.I don't remember things being so screwed up in the past. I don't remember having to replace new parts .GTARoger

[Falcongek]

You're making nice progress.
Regarding failed new parts,
I learned the hard way to always check a new thermostat, nearly blowing my headgasket with an out of the box faulty new one.
I had a blown gasket and thought, lets also replace the unknown + years thermostat just to be sure....

[gtaroger]

Yes , your right. I will never put in a part with out checking it over. I got it all straighten out today. Tomorrow I plan to take it up and have new tires installed. The tires on the front look really good. But they have been on the car a long time.I found out the hard way about tires that look good but are dry rotted on the inside.I bought a motor home a few years back. The tires look like they were in great shape. The wife and I took our first trip the Florida in it. We had three blow outs out of the six tires on it.We stopped on the way home and had all six tires replaced.Found out later that there's a date on the tires that tell the date that the tires were made.I was told later that you should replace tires on the motorhome every 5 to 7 years no matter how nice they look.I figure car tires can dry rot to.Plan to go to the dragstrip next month. Don't want to be driving old tires at fast speeds.GTARoger

[gtaroger]

Got some more great news today. I had plans to go to Milan Dragway next month to test my car. Well the good news is the Dragstrip will be auctioned off on the 7th of next month.So now the nearest drag way is Norwalk. Thats 210 miles round trip. Don't think I'll be doing that soon. GTARoger

[gtaroger]

Well it's good news today. I am about finished with all my work on my car .I have to bleed the brakes tomorrow and if no leaks the line lock will be finished. So the only thing that I have left to do is take it up to the shop and have the cut outs welded in.No more mods for now. Time to enjoy some cruising.GTARoger