'62 Falcon Refresh

[dkutz]

Say hi to Bob. Our 62 Falcon! with a 144 and 3 on the tree. We have owned him about 6 years. Runs pretty good but leaks everywhere. Compression is ok, so although I would love to rebuild the motor, I have to save money and go the seal and detail route. Rear main, and everything else I can seal without pulling the heads. Engine came out today. Time to start cleaning!!71927193

[Gitanesteel]

Sweet ride. You don't see a lot with the deluxe trim piece on the lower quarter panel. My old 61 Starliner had that.

[dkutz]

Just a quick update. Things are moving along. So far the rear main Seal was replaced and all the valve seals are replaced. Purchased a new water pump and timing chain that need to go in soon. Then its more painting and detailing. This is one dirty bird, 60 years of oil leaks have not been kind. still have most of the engine bay to strip and paint. Hopefully around Thanksgiving he will be back up and running.

[dkutz]

Question. I pulled the motor and left the tranny in. What is the best way to reinstall? Motor mounts on engine, or line up engine and trans first.then install motor mounts?

[Luva65wagon]

I assume this is a 2.77 3-speed and weighs nearly nothing. Easy to lift and install. Drop the transmission out of the way. Check all the mounts for wear, etc. Drop the motor on the mounts (nuts loose enough to allow the motor to shift around a bit, for now), support the rear of the motor as you install the flywheel, clutch assy., then the bell housing and Z-bar assy (make sure these bushings are good, and lubed, too). Once these are on - the back of the engine will actually be heaviest and you can leave the jack under the rear of the pan (protect that fresh paint!) and slip the transmission back in and get it tightened up. Reinstall the rear mount and drive-line and you're nearly done. I've done this by myself more times than I can recall.

Good work on the project! Good to see cars being worked on.

[dkutz]

Bummer I was hoping to install without pulling trans.

[Luva65wagon]

You could try, but I can almost guarantee you will be done 10-times faster, maybe more, doing it as suggested. Getting the input shaft through the clutch assy using the motor as the lever/angle finder having to rotate either the motor or the transmission to align the splines... is a tall order. Besides, you really should look at the condition of the rear mount parts and u-joints, etc.

[dkutz]

got the timing chain swapped today. Other than a very stubborn balancer bolt, all went well, lots of cleaning. Got it all buttoned up. Now I might finish the front of motor with new water pump and thermostat, and button all that up. Nice when it starts to come back together.

72087209

[dkutz]

does anyone sell the correct spring for the carb throttle return?

[Luva65wagon]

Looking good! That chain was looking a little sloppy. Always a good call to replace it - while you're at it.

I'm not sure if a spring replacement is made, but I suggest checking Melvin's or one of the other Falcon vendors. The return spring was odd on these 6's; it hooked to the throttle shaft and then hooked over the end of the intake log, so it's a pretty long spring.

[dkutz]

found some factory assembly line markings on sunday! pretty cool7212

[dkutz]

Busy painting day today. Engine bay, engine block and all the Ford blue parts. Plus a couple other parts. Starting to come back together!

heres my update and a couple pics

https://youtu.be/HpboGL4E6gA

[Luva65wagon]

Like black engines. Smart move. What are you using for the engine bay. I found Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black is a very good paint, cheap, and durable. Close to original... though most pre-64 Falcons had body color under the hood. I like the satin black.

[dkutz]

Like black engines. Smart move. What are you using for the engine bay. I found Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black is a very good paint, cheap, and durable. Close to original... though most pre-64 Falcons had body color under the hood. I like the satin black.

Roger, this is a late 62, and was painted black from the factory. I am pulling from my Mustang restoration bag. The paint for the engine bay is krylon 1613. It WAS the go to for years on mustangs, but then they changed the formula. HOWEVER it was discovered they still made the original in their industrial line, so that is what I used. (Note the photo above is black primer). Just the right sheen.

[Luva65wagon]

I used to use Krylon a lot; for years, but found it wasn't all that durable. I then stumbled onto the 7777 Rustoleum, which has never needed a primer (just clean surfaces) and is durable as heck. Seems, I found, if the paint took forever to dry it was a more durable finish than anything I tried claiming fast dry. Not sure if the 1613 was their fast-dry semi-gloss black I used back then, but I painted my entire Ranchero in 7777 satin black and other than some scuff marks from sitting under a tarp for a couple years (waiting for my garage to be built) it's held up really well.

Just putting this out as my personal observation.

I'll have to adjust my knowledge on under hood paint. I thought '62's had body color. Live and learn.

[dkutz]

Any tips on valve adjustment on the 144ci? Never done it before...

[Luva65wagon]

More than likely solid lifters, so you have to get a cold adjustment done first to start it; basically rotating the motor to where both valve on one cylinder is at top dead center compression stroke and adjust the valve to a couple thousands of the hot setting (larger gap by a couple thou). Then once started you adjust them once the engine is at temp to the specification.

And for what it's worth... there are more people here than me and I have no idea why I'm the only one replying... other than to say I'm the one who seems to be the one replying the most, historically.

[dkutz]

And for what it's worth... there are more people here than me and I have no idea why I'm the only one replying... other than to say I'm the one who seems to be the one replying the most, historically.

Just not an interesting thread for most... oh well.

[Luva65wagon]

I don't believe that's the case. It's been a weird year and some of us have taken the time at home and done work on projects - my Ranchero is only one of about 20 fairly big projects I've worked on this year - and some have been focusing on just surviving; searching for toilet paper, etc., etc. Some have focused their attention towards other more active social media platforms; like, Facebook, etc. to get those "likes." I used to only have time for this forum, but now I'm posting in multiple places. Some just no longer have their cars anymore; those who used to be very active here.

Some just say, "That's a question for Roger..." :)

[Jeff W]

Do you have a source for Toilet Paper? ��

Actually Roger is the best resource we have for this type of information so we generally just wait for his reply. He is a smart cookie and had a good approach to explaining process.

[dkutz]

I ordered a new release bearing for the tranny while everything was apart. But i only bought the bearing not the release bearing hub bracket.. I now see that they are attached. Can i replace jus the bearing or should I ordered one with bracket and bearing attached.?

[Luva65wagon]

It's pressed into the hub (bracket) and may be a pain to get apart. If you have a press or a good vise and can create a receiving cup and a piece fit to press out the hub, you might get it apart and back together. Honestly, even though I could make all of this happen I'd still, personally, probably get the complete part if it's available.

[dhbfaster]

Jumping back to the engine compartment paint...I found the Eastwood spray can paints easier to paint for some reason.

[dkutz]

Jumping back to the engine compartment paint...I found the Eastwood spray can paints easier to paint for some reason.

yeah its wierd these really were hard to press. I got tired quick. But it came out ok, so I am happy with it..

[dkutz]

BBQ or paint job?

[Luva65wagon]

If it's a BBQ, I'll expect to see some flames next.

[thumb]

[dkutz]

Motor going in tomorrow. Was waiting for a new release bearing.

[Luva65wagon]

Exciting times. Always enjoy when this stage happens. Best of luck to you and looking forward to seeing it under the hood of your BBQ.

[dkutz]

So frustrating!! Got motor off stand, took forever to get it balanced right on chains, set it all down to put on clutch, only to discover the pressure plate is broken. One of the springs are broken. No one local carries it, so I have to order online, and wait till weds. So pissed.

[BadBird]

We have a saying in our house. "nothing is easy" Seems like everything that can go wrong will. I can't tell you how many times in building my car that there were set backs. I think the worst was when I finally got the last coat of cleat on the paint and a giant European crane moth landed on the hood and crawled for two feet. I had to completely strip the hood down to metal, re-primer, paint and clear the whole front of the car to blend in the paint.
Hope you can get back in gear soon and keep the posts coming. Enjoying the read. Larry

[dhbfaster]

We feel ya...
I think if I were to go back and read my threads... the number of :doh: went down over time...as I seemed to just expect the setbacks, enjoy the challenges and I always knew the club was there to share them with - with no judgement and usually help if needed- in my case mostly just rookie mistakes on my part.
It’s all part of the journey. Most everything takes twice as long as it should. I think I had one door panel off five times.

[dkutz]

Latest video update, engine install, and some of my obstacles. Hopefully it will be back in road this week!
https://youtu.be/mk7DlYAHCeQ

https://youtu.be/mk7DlYAHCeQ

[Luva65wagon]

Looking really good! Great to see it coming together.

[dkutz]

Surprised to find a Holley 1940 carb on Bob. I assume it’s a replacement at some point. Should I take the time to find the 1909 or what ever the correct carb is?

[dkutz]

It’s alive!!! Bob fired right up without a hitch. Slight lifter tick, but that will be adjusted. Biggest issues were...couldn’t get into 1st gear or reverse, from a standstill. Maybe frustrating tries later, finally realized the dust boot was preventing the throw out fork from fully extending, no, boot, and it shifts great.

next issue was an oil leak, from what I feared, was the rear main. After calming down, I think it’s the rear oil pan seal, the rubber one. It didn’t really sit well in the block when I installed, thought it would be ok. Guess not. Xmas vacation project.

[Luva65wagon]

Cool and bummer both. At least it's not impossible to pull the pan on these with the motor in. Drop the idler arm to get the drag link to fall away and the pan pretty much free and clear.

[Falcongek]

I just read your thread. Very recognizable. :doh:
I struggled with a cracked block. Took the engine out 3 times, before we noticed the tiny rust trail...

Uncertain if this is against forum rules, if so please remove mods:
I found the inline six forum very good for timing and other engine related stuff. The old classic inlines website had tons of tech info, including how to set youre valves, the tech section was carried over to the new website of the new owner (https://fordsix.com/ci/Tech.html).

Good luck,

Rinke

[Tom P]

Roger, this is a late 62, and was painted black from the factory.

I thought the black only started in 64? Learn something new here. My 62 Ranchero was built early (06K) and is Ming Green under the hood but someone had repainted it and repainted the rad support. I scraped that off carefully. I can tell the rad support's original paint was a semi gloss black but but can't tell where the black from the rad support ends and is supposed to meet the Ming Green. Not sure if i resprayed it far enough here.
7379

[Luva65wagon]

Dieter,

Here's a carb I'm thinking would be a nice add to your setup, with the correct vacuum advance "spark control" setup and a manual choke like you have. Won't be too big for the 144 either.

[Luva65wagon]

Well, here it is. Came out pretty nice. Will follow up on a PM as well.

This is the first manual choke version of these I've done and the interesting bit is the idle screw. It is the same one that rides on the choke cam, so make sure when you set up the choke it operates smoothly to fully retract when you push in on the choke cable. Probably would set it up so when you attach the choke cable so there is still a little bit of push on the choke knob left so you know it's bottomed out on the carb.

[dkutz]

Wow it looks amazing! And boy are you fast!

[Falcongek]

Do mind that the fuel bowl vent rod and plunger are missing.
It's supposed to plug the vent hole on the top of the fuel bowl and be connected to the lever on the top of the acc pump (Pic 3).
It controles the venting of fuel fumes either to the free air or into the carb throat.

I'm not entirely sure if it makes a big impact on actual operation of the carb.

Other than that, it's a mighty fine looking carb [BOW]

Rinke

[dkutz]

Do mind that the fuel bowl vent rod and plunger are missing.
It's supposed to plug the vent hole on the top of the fuel bowl and be connected to the lever on the top of the acc pump (Pic 3).
It controles the venting of fuel fumes either to the free air or into the carb throat.

I'm not entirely sure if it makes a big impact on actual operation of the carb.

Other than that, it's a mighty fine looking carb [BOW]

Rinke


Dammit! and I already paid him!! :p

[Luva65wagon]

Do mind that the fuel bowl vent rod and plunger are missing.
It's supposed to plug the vent hole on the top of the fuel bowl and be connected to the lever on the top of the acc pump (Pic 3).
It controles the venting of fuel fumes either to the free air or into the carb throat.

I'm not entirely sure if it makes a big impact on actual operation of the carb.

Other than that, it's a mighty fine looking carb [BOW]

Rinke

He shouldn't mind too much considering most remanufacturers didn't reinstall them for 20 years due to there being no reproductions of them. But it's fair to bring it up. I've built a half-dozen 1100's without them since, a) neither did the rebuilders, so I figure 'it must be OK', and b) most cores I buy don't have them. I can't buy all the parts to use them now if I wanted to, since only the rod is reproduced and not the lever. But... since I had one of them... out of the 6 cores I had - I gave Dieter my one and only (though I do have two more levers - just no plungers).


For what it's worth, this is really a nonsensical device. The tolerances on the "plunger" are such that it doesn't really stop-up any fumes coming out the vent; minimal, at best, nor does it alter the operation if it is missing. Rebuilders, in fact, just put a not-so-tight-fitting plug (what I originally did on Dieter's) just to keep critters out, but not so tight that it wouldn't vent. The plastic rod was/is very prone to breaking, which I hope and pray this one won't. If it does ever break Dieter, you can get a new rod from Mikes Carburetor Parts for $12.95. New ones are made out of metal. Or, just remove it.


So that's the low-down on that.

[Falcongek]

That's true. Ive always questioned the function of mine. I've got a plastic vent rod and it is not straight anymore.

I wasn't aware that you actually reconditioned and sold this carb. In that retrospect I shouldn't have posted my reply like this. I thought you were showing a carb you found on line and I thought it was overlooked.

[Luva65wagon]

No worries. You had the right to point out what you saw. I've looked at the thing quite closely before and can see why it's been negated in so many rebuilds (from reputable rebuilders). I followed their lead based upon my own study of these things. I suspect it was similar to the 2100 and 4100 which originally had open vents and due to EPA regulations had to have these vents "plugged" while at idle.

[dkutz]

Was not worried about the vent rod, since he said he was gonna plug it, which was quite common. So either way on that for me doesn’t matter. However while doing some research I found not only is the rod reproduced but champion carbs remake the lever.

[Luva65wagon]

I remember Champion now that I've been back to look again. I thought then what I thought today - 'they want a lot of money for their (expiative).' All I can say (from casual observation) is the carburetor you're getting looks way better than the example they are using as something they sell; i.e., their manual choke 1100. Problem is that there are now China copies of the Autolite 1100 and now folks expect rebuilt originals to sell that cheaply. Shoot, Champion will charge you more than the cost of a China carb... just as a core charge! Yikes!

Anyway, not sure I'm gonna spend $50 to add a vent to these cores if/when I get to building them. I might get 3 rods from Mike's ($5 cheaper each than Champion) to match the levers I have, but the others will get plugged if I build them at all.

[dkutz]

I remember Champion now that I've been back to look again. I thought then what I thought today - 'they want a lot of money for their (expiative).' All I can say (from casual observation) is the carburetor you're getting looks way better than the example they are using as something they sell; i.e., their manual choke 1100. Problem is that there are now China copies of the Autolite 1100 and now folks expect rebuilt originals to sell that cheaply. Shoot, Champion will charge you more than the cost of a China carb... just as a core charge! Yikes!

Anyway, not sure I'm gonna spend $50 to add a vent to these cores if/when I get to building them. I might get 3 rods from Mike's ($5 cheaper each than Champion) to match the levers I have, but the others will get plugged if I build them at all.

Either way is fine for me. Sounds like ti will work way and I trust your prior knowledge. Can't wait to get the carb and can't thank you enough for all your help!!

[dkutz]

Busy day. New tires arrived! And we greased the steering box. New carb is on the way! Excited to see progress!

[Luva65wagon]

It's still poopy rain up here for a while. Staying warm in the garage for a couple more months.

Be sure to show off your new things... or cuss me out if the carb pukes. :WHATTHE:

[dkutz]

It's still poopy rain up here for a while. Staying warm in the garage for a couple more months.

Be sure to show off your new things... or cuss me out if the carb pukes. :WHATTHE:

here are the tires. I will get mounted on Monday.

and if the carb pukes I will cry.

7416

[Falcongek]

Nice, looks like maxxis tyres.
What size?
I've got these waiting for my rim redo.7417

Switching to 185/90R13's

[dkutz]

Nice, looks like maxxis tyres.
What size?
I've got these waiting for my rim redo.7417

Switching to 185/90R13's

185/80r13. Why you going to 90? And yes they are maxxis

[Falcongek]

whoopsie typo, they're 80's :p

[dkutz]

New tires! Looks good. Rpm is better. But Speedo is still like 5mph off. Do I need to change the speedo gear, or just live with it?7424

[Luva65wagon]

Looking good! Carb should be in town now according to tracking it this morning.

5 MPH off may get closer with a one tooth different than current, more or less. If 5MPH fast, then get a gear with one more tooth to slow it down. If slow, a gear with one less tooth to speed it up. You need to pull the speedo cable from the transmission and count how many teeth it currently has, and if it twists left or twists right.

[Luva65wagon]

Well, sadly Bob is winning the "make life rough on Dieter" game. He received the carburetor I sent him only to find the thing flooded. The "new" float I used leaked - even after testing it here before shipping it. So I sent another, after testing and setting it up on another 1100 I have, and it still ran like crap. So after a couple dozen forth and back PM's trying to sort things - I had him send it back with the agreement if I had an Ah Ha! discovery I'd fix it and send it back. I couldn't find anything other than the float I sent was somehow bent between "here and here."

7507

This is how it was setup when I set it up on the mock carburetor here. You bend the small tab, not the long arm, to adjust it. You want the float near level:

7508

Because I wasn't sure that would have caused the issue he was having with it (it still measured close to the right height, though backwards) - he's back to square one with his old one, which oddly didn't run correctly when it was reinstalled either. He just got the parts to fix it today, so he'll have to ring in on the outcome of that.

So yesterday I came across a Facebook thread about these new China 1100 carburetors (I've been eying them a long while) and a couple guys are saying they've had good luck with them.

So, Dieter, here's an offer. If you get one of these and it doesn't work... I'll buy it off you. I've been wanting to get one just to see how well they're made, or not. So, it might be a win/win for you either way. If it works... WIN! If it doesn't... I'll buy it off you. WIN! (Almost).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Fit-For-Ford-Autolite-1100-1-Barrel-63-69-Mustangs-Falcon-170-200-ci/254477909200?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3b4010bcd0:g:ZTAAAOSw3v1f4t4T&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252 Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMZm GIq38x5cuqAyf3MGpMpq71tMBctT0xI4NUKeJ%252F3Rv3hZbI LHoIdpj%252B3AdK%252BqdMDNFareV5zTReXD8zHtE01CslkF G0YotB99YYtQ8d1g3dGejtfVa0LaDl5bQQ%252BF18Piy1Pa4b O1DHfGeJVuBuy7mDypElAeEXSH4QjBVC4M%252FPPbv2ORGabV 1oppkKZ6cVJbLvG6i5XzH33hXuaNx4rZhL%252BAX0PALQZ6E6 iLu%252BB%252FlGGBiIgtZzsbjePzDLYzxUc68nTk7vCGvCxJ fbjAeDN0Ln8a%252FfvPGq8HD%252B78XKEzlOeLI5g1mlJBFo 7ex0yi3d08OHfIXm2K4bN3SbWcYzQPabJLlnfAKUOoVHGLS4%2 52BaksCUr3Rq5d%252FxOypfGxEfhVSsz8A31Dp%252BNdhwwO h2BSBXpC2Cvl61c%252BJMY%252Fta2966BleB0%252BjKcgHu NKwhpVbqC6LE0l2Wr%252B%252BzZh0jZ1Jdh8w97A1EUcR%25 2Fe6cHxwoMtIcJnX%252FB891mQD90w9XTAmtopgiEnziTl9no %252FI1Oq9Ina2ho2jtmbLGV%252FtKqlLwRH8gQbej4E66ha6 0%252BnTUAt3LRfdgDIvDqoijY0zt%252F4FwSPBnLKPKlxIoA %252BNHVbcwGs%252FLbfU9ufTDWZdoArCMyL0vjRZFNwSsgaQ %252FcIefnOsSOQBQEAn33KLfuRlsbOnycEaajBpbiGcqaZPTO KuO%252BJxuchjAp0ou1agANahexkDmkTIiA3cpo1k1ZoCCyL5 0gDwYAmr%252Fxj1phd0PHyDuS38wYKlZaDcXwGMY0Yzp3Rsdz pDeo%253D%7Ccksum%3A25447790920057c03d59188c46f882 67e7cb211c9506%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

The only thing about it (from the ad photo) is they have the choke cable coming in from the wrong (passenger) side. This should be reversible by removing the clip on the fast idle cam to remove it and then the screw/stud behind removed and the choke clamp flipped as well as the cam. Or just get the longer choke cable and approach it from the passenger side as it's setup. It has the Spark Advance Control Valve on it (assuming it's doing the right thing), so it should work. I can't find any other specs on it.

Anyway, sorry mine didn't work for you, but maybe the new eBay one will?

[dkutz]

Roger thanks for all your help. I am not sure why your carb didn't like me, but it didn't. BTW I DID NOT do anything to your replacement float, I installed it, the height looked right so I left it alone.

My old 1940 is messed up because I DROPPED it when I took it out. Hopefully all will be good today when I put a couple new parts on it. I really wan tot get Bob running again Mainly so I can get the tranny sorted.

[Luva65wagon]

I'm not placing blame. I have no idea what happened to it; only pointing out what I saw when I opened it up. It was glaring to me. This only means it would have been glaring to me as well when I set up the replacement float before I sent it. Anyway, I chalk this up to being just a series of unfortunate events Bob put us both through. When you check and double check - and then check and double check a second time and have yet another bizarre thing happen; what else can you do?

Of course this is mostly in jest trying to find answers where there are none available to us. No matter. We'll all watch and await the outcome as you move forward. What did you think of the carburetor I sent the link for?

[dkutz]

Update. Bob is running again. New float and needle and fired right up no stumble no hesitation. So I guess Bob is a Holley man.

[dkutz]

Well, sadly Bob is winning the "make life rough on Dieter" game. He received the carburetor I sent him only to find the thing flooded. The "new" float I used leaked - even after testing it here before shipping it. So I sent another, after testing and setting it up on another 1100 I have, and it still ran like crap. So after a couple dozen forth and back PM's trying to sort things - I had him send it back with the agreement if I had an Ah Ha! discovery I'd fix it and send it back. I couldn't find anything other than the float I sent was somehow bent between "here and here."

7507

This is how it was setup when I set it up on the mock carburetor here. You bend the small tab, not the long arm, to adjust it. You want the float near level:

7508

Because I wasn't sure that would have caused the issue he was having with it (it still measured close to the right height, though backwards) - he's back to square one with his old one, which oddly didn't run correctly when it was reinstalled either. He just got the parts to fix it today, so he'll have to ring in on the outcome of that.

So yesterday I came across a Facebook thread about these new China 1100 carburetors (I've been eying them a long while) and a couple guys are saying they've had good luck with them.

So, Dieter, here's an offer. If you get one of these and it doesn't work... I'll buy it off you. I've been wanting to get one just to see how well they're made, or not. So, it might be a win/win for you either way. If it works... WIN! If it doesn't... I'll buy it off you. WIN! (Almost).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-Fit-For-Ford-Autolite-1100-1-Barrel-63-69-Mustangs-Falcon-170-200-ci/254477909200?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item3b4010bcd0:g:ZTAAAOSw3v1f4t4T&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252 Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkrDx%252B2NLp21dg6hHbHAkGMZm GIq38x5cuqAyf3MGpMpq71tMBctT0xI4NUKeJ%252F3Rv3hZbI LHoIdpj%252B3AdK%252BqdMDNFareV5zTReXD8zHtE01CslkF G0YotB99YYtQ8d1g3dGejtfVa0LaDl5bQQ%252BF18Piy1Pa4b O1DHfGeJVuBuy7mDypElAeEXSH4QjBVC4M%252FPPbv2ORGabV 1oppkKZ6cVJbLvG6i5XzH33hXuaNx4rZhL%252BAX0PALQZ6E6 iLu%252BB%252FlGGBiIgtZzsbjePzDLYzxUc68nTk7vCGvCxJ fbjAeDN0Ln8a%252FfvPGq8HD%252B78XKEzlOeLI5g1mlJBFo 7ex0yi3d08OHfIXm2K4bN3SbWcYzQPabJLlnfAKUOoVHGLS4%2 52BaksCUr3Rq5d%252FxOypfGxEfhVSsz8A31Dp%252BNdhwwO h2BSBXpC2Cvl61c%252BJMY%252Fta2966BleB0%252BjKcgHu NKwhpVbqC6LE0l2Wr%252B%252BzZh0jZ1Jdh8w97A1EUcR%25 2Fe6cHxwoMtIcJnX%252FB891mQD90w9XTAmtopgiEnziTl9no %252FI1Oq9Ina2ho2jtmbLGV%252FtKqlLwRH8gQbej4E66ha6 0%252BnTUAt3LRfdgDIvDqoijY0zt%252F4FwSPBnLKPKlxIoA %252BNHVbcwGs%252FLbfU9ufTDWZdoArCMyL0vjRZFNwSsgaQ %252FcIefnOsSOQBQEAn33KLfuRlsbOnycEaajBpbiGcqaZPTO KuO%252BJxuchjAp0ou1agANahexkDmkTIiA3cpo1k1ZoCCyL5 0gDwYAmr%252Fxj1phd0PHyDuS38wYKlZaDcXwGMY0Yzp3Rsdz pDeo%253D%7Ccksum%3A25447790920057c03d59188c46f882 67e7cb211c9506%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

The only thing about it (from the ad photo) is they have the choke cable coming in from the wrong (passenger) side. This should be reversible by removing the clip on the fast idle cam to remove it and then the screw/stud behind removed and the choke clamp flipped as well as the cam. Or just get the longer choke cable and approach it from the passenger side as it's setup. It has the Spark Advance Control Valve on it (assuming it's doing the right thing), so it should work. I can't find any other specs on it.

Anyway, sorry mine didn't work for you, but maybe the new eBay one will?

great offer roger. I think I will stick with this carb for now. Bob seems to like it best.

[Luva65wagon]

Yeah. I get not missing what you've never had. I had the exact same carb as the you (Holley 1940) on my wagon with a 200 and it didn't have the spark control either - for a long time. Didn't know about it. When I finally put the correct carburetor on, totally changed the car.

Get that transmission issue resolved and then maybe circle back around.

[dkutz]

Yeah. I get not missing what you've never had. I had the exact same carb as the you (Holley 1940) on my wagon with a 200 and it didn't have the spark control either - for a long time. Didn't know about it. When I finally put the correct carburetor on, totally changed the car.

Get that transmission issue resolved and then maybe circle back around.


definitely waiting till I get the trans sorted before I do anything else with the carb. Just gun shy now, because Bob just didn't like the 1100.

[dkutz]

Just got Bob back from trans shop. They fabricated a longer rod for the piece that connect the zbar and pushes the throw out fork. It’s better now, and at least driveable. Still not perfect, it I suspect once the clutch wears a little it will be even better. He seems to think the clutch I picked is too thick. Whatever, at least I can drive it

[Luva65wagon]

Hopefully they didn't just mask a deeper issue as I mentioned long ago (uneven pressure plate release). That will cause the clutch disc to wear really quick. You should have had more than enough adjustment at the z-bar assuming you had a stock clutch rod at the transmission. Maybe you didn't. But it is true as the clutch wears it will require adjustment in the direction you have available. Hope it works out well for you no matter what.

[dkutz]

Hopefully they didn't just mask a deeper issue as I mentioned long ago (uneven pressure plate release). That will cause the clutch disc to wear really quick. You should have had more than enough adjustment at the z-bar assuming you had a stock clutch rod at the transmission. Maybe you didn't. But it is true as the clutch wears it will require adjustment in the direction you have available. Hope it works out well for you no matter what.


guess we will find out. at least its driveable, and worse comes to worse I will have to replace the clutch soon. Not a biggie

[dkutz]

Well a couple weeks with Bob back from the trans shop, and he seems better. Still grinds slightly into 2nd and third. I MAY try synthetic trans oil, and see if that helps. The syncro fired the other day and I was so happy, I think it may just need to be warmed up.

But of course not all is great. I drove him on the freeway for the first time in a while and noticed that the shift lever moves around with road bumps and movement. Its moving with the transmission, so not really sure whats going on. Roger suggested (after sending him pics) that the spring cantilever mount is not set up right. it is missing a rubber washer and has a lock nut on the donut bolt. I suspect that the rubber insulator in the support bracket is either broken or missing as well. I think I will replace the whole assembly. especially since I can't find the parts individually.

I found some diagrams for the assembly so I will post them here for Roger!
7539
7540
7541