Two simple questions

[Gitanesteel]

Had to take the car out for a short fall drive for photos. As usual when I returned I crawled underneath to check the status of the water pump and power steering pump leaks.

I noticed the two metal lines at the bottom of the radiator running to the transmission. At the front one of them seems really kinked and I wonder if fluid really gets through it. Thoughts?

Also, what's the cannister looking thing at the front of the transmission where this kink is?

Sorry for the slightly blurry photo.
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m191/scozim/SAM_0298.jpg (http://s104.photobucket.com/user/scozim/media/SAM_0298.jpg.html)

[Bill Pierce]

That is your starter, those lines are transmission cooling lines. And you can bet that you are not getting adequate flow. I would run a new one.

[Gitanesteel]

Yeah, I figured it was the transmission cooling lines. Is one a return and the other a supply? Would be a good time to run that when I replace the water pump this next month.

And, yes, I'm a novice - i.e. the question on what is the starter.

[Gitanesteel]

I notice on Falcon parts that you get both lines and it mentions two flexible hoses to attach to the flares on the radiator end of the metal lines. Mine only has one these flexible hoses - the the metal line is screwed onto the bottom of the radiator. What do other people have?

[Bill Pierce]

My 63 had about 24" or so of flexible braded line from the hard lines to the radiator. When I swaped out the fordomtic for a C4 I ran new lines.

[Luva65wagon]

Scott,

A factory installation would probably have had threaded fittings on each end, but it really doesn't matter in the grand-scheme. You just have to have the correct fittings for whatever setup you end-up with. The radiator will have a pair of 1/8" pipe to female inverted flare fittings on the radiator in your current setup, but would need to be replaced with 1/8" pipe to 5/16" hose barb fittings if you use the lines from FP.com, which use 5/16" hose at the radiator.

Transmissions get very hot, so this coolant line is pretty critical to have full-flow. If you plan on doing much more driving before these lines get replaced, it would behoove you to at least cut out this pinched section and use a good 5/16" hose (a name-brand fuel-line hose is fine) to patch it.

It is often a bear to get these line fittings loose on the transmission, and then the new lines started and tightened. So little hand access up there between the transmission and tunnel. So I hope the replacements are a good match so you don't need to tweak them much. You might benefit from dropping the rear transmission mount and lowering the rear of the transmission using a jack to give yourself a little more access.

[Gitanesteel]

With limited experience and space - ie lying on my back. Would it be worthwhile having a shop do it to make sure proper clearance? It seems having it on a hoist would be beneficial.

[Bill Pierce]

Well you kinda need a tubing bender and flairing tool. I wish you lived closer I'd be happy to help you. Honestly a good set of ramps will get it high enough.

No Idea what a shop would charge.

[Luva65wagon]

No Idea what a shop would charge.

$100 a hour. Probably squeeze you for 2 hours.

Buy a double flaring tool, some 5/16 brake line (silver, not green/brown), some fitting ends, and practice, practice, practice. Search YouTube for "double flare brake line" and you'll find lots of help.