Autolite 1100 Carburator parts

[Nathan289]

Hello,

Anyone have extra metering jets/ main jets for an Autolite 1100?

I was thinking I could improve the performance of my Carb and make the engine come alive, by cleaning the Jet with a drill bit and making it bigger.

Well the engine runs rich, to the point that if I let it idle longer than 2 minutes it loads up the plugs stumbles and acts like its going to stall. I rev the engine and it clears up.

I also have to have the idle at 1000 rpms to keep the engine idling smooth. Anything lower and it seems to load up and stall.

I'm hoping its just my main jet issue.. otherwise its something else in the carb, maybe distributor.. hmm wondering if the advance is sticking.

the Jet number I'm looking for is stamped 59F anyone have one?
If not I think I know where I can buy one.

Nathan

[Norm1]

A variety of sizes available....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Autolite-1100-2100-2150-4100-and-4300-Carburetor-Jets-/111448700685?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item19f2dc370d&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Jets-Autolite-Motorcraft-Ford-1100-2100-Carburetor-Hipo-289-Jeep-258-CJ5-CJ6-/200926795938?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&hash=item2ec82b98a2&vxp=mtr

[Luva65wagon]

Nathan,

I've got quite a few 1100's I collected to try and make one good one for someone else, so may have one I can send you. Maybe you can make a list as of today of things you still need and I can finally get that care package. I've had these two lighters for you to pick from, but finally took a picture this weekend to ask you which of them you might really need.

These 1100's have a lot of funky attributes, so hopefully you get it going well. Is this one an auto or manual choke model?

[Nathan289]

Roger,

My Autolite 1100 is a manual choke model. Engine runs well, except for the idle is around 1000 rpms. I can set it at 800 rpms and it will run fine for a while, but then loads up and then dies. If I pull the plugs after it dies they're covered in soot.
If I lean out the idle mixture it won't idle well at all.

So I'm pretty sure I goobered up the main jet when I thought I'd be sly and make it a little bit bigger.. bad mistake.:doh:

I've tried different timing, anywhere from 6* to 12* BTDC and it doesn't seem to matter much. Though the temp gauge stays a little cooler with it set around 10* over having it set at 6*.


Things I need..

Manual shift collar, again.. why are these things always trashed?
63 grill, haven't called Steve Avery yet
Spare tire cover
Dash pad
Everything in the interior. Bucket seat foam, headliner, door panels, carpet, seat covers. All of it.

Windshield washer foot pump (thinking this might be why wipers don't work.) Haven't looked into it yet.
Heater switch that isn't broken.. the switch works, the cable is loose.
Squires wood trim pieces. Right fender, right front passenger door upper trim piece.

Driver's front toe board and passenger side front floor pan. Why do I buy cars that need floors?

Funny how the car is a deluxe squire wagon, but it has plain dash knobs no inserts. It has plain arm rests not the ones with stainless trim.

Figured it would have all the bling and it doesn't. Just the chrome strip for the dash pad.

[Luva65wagon]

Roger,

My Autolite 1100 is a manual choke model. Engine runs well, except for the idle is around 1000 rpms. I can set it at 800 rpms and it will run fine for a while, but then loads up and then dies. If I pull the plugs after it dies they're covered in soot. If I lean out the idle mixture it won't idle well at all.



I have a couple cores of this type. Can rebuild one for you cheap if you need it.




So I'm pretty sure I goobered up the main jet when I thought I'd be sly and make it a little bit bigger.. bad mistake.:doh:



I will look tomorrow night (gotta climb into my loft) and see what I can find. As I recall all of mine were marked as 59..




Things I need..

· Manual shift collar, again.. why are these things always trashed?
· 63 grill, haven't called Steve Avery yet
· Spare tire cover
· Dash pad
· Everything in the interior. Bucket seat foam, headliner, door panels, carpet, seat covers. All of it.
· Windshield washer foot pump (thinking this might be why wipers don't work.) Haven't looked into it yet.
· Heater switch that isn't broken.. the switch works, the cable is loose.
· Squires wood trim pieces. Right fender, right front passenger door upper trim piece.
· Driver's front toe board and passenger side front floor pan. Why do I buy cars that need floors?


I don't have much of any of that stuff. The heater switch, I might, but those are like gold and fail far too easily. Repops are Repoopy at best. Someone needs to make a decent reproduction.

I have a couple ww-pumps, but they are very specific to years and models and even mine, which I added to the wagon years ago, doesn't connect to the wiper motor wiring. Never tried to figure it out. I do know you can unplug all that and go direct from w-switch to the wiper motor to determine if that's the issue. I assume you have electric one-speed wipers and not vacuum?



Funny how the car is a deluxe squire wagon, but it has plain dash knobs no inserts. It has plain arm rests not the ones with stainless trim. Figured it would have all the bling and it doesn't. Just the chrome strip for the dash pad.

So I take it then your knobs don't have the chrome insert. OK. Do you still need the glove-box catches?

[Nathan289]

Roger,

Thanks for the Carb offer, Mine is pretty solid, plus its original down to the tag that's on it. The only issue it has is the nut job that rebuilt it, thinking he can make it better.

Glove box catches are a yes.
Knobs don't have chrome inserts.. wish they did.

If you can find a jet for me thanks.. my carb shop guy's phone is always busy, not sure if he's even still in business. When I Google him the web now shows 2 different addresses with the same phone number, that I can't even get to ring.

I bought a new collar from Ecklers.. will see how that goes.. I'm still waiting for answers to other questions for other stuff I'd like to order.

I have the ww pump, thought it was missing but I was wrong.

I'll pull the heater switch out and see if I can epoxy the cable back in so it works. Maybe some fiberglass or something.

[Luva65wagon]

Nathan - I couldn't find a 59, but have a 58 which should be OK. You can try it and read the plugs. I PM'd you asking for your address.

I hope you get it running right in the end.

Working on 1100's has proven difficult and I've learned a lot about them. I spent a lot [of time and money] trying to build a good one for the Comet I sold last year - to replace a Holley 1940 it had on it when I got it. The 1940 didn't have the correct Spark Advance vacuum circuit, and I knew it, and I felt obligated to make that right. Though a few of you thought I was crazy spending so much to do so, that's just how I roll. I think I bought 9 cores in that attempt. Sadly you just don't know what sort of condition these will be in until you get it. Some you know instantly they are good for parts only. They are not cheap - even as cores!

1100's do get a bad rap, but with anything this old I've found it's one thing to dink around trying to make one work correctly when the car is yours and in your garage. You just keep at it until you're satisfied. But it's wholly another to do this when you've got a tight window of opportunity to touch it, or you're paying someone hourly to do so. Not a good deal any way you look at it. They are really very efficient carbs, when you can find a good one and can massage it into shape.

Good luck!

[PhilC]

They are really very efficient carbs, when you can find a good one and can massage it into shape.
^^^^This is the biggest challenge.

Nathan, it's been awhile since I played with an 1100, so bear with me. Why do you think enlarging the main jet is causing idle problems? The main circuit should not affect the idle circuit and the drilled out jet should only affect fuel flow once the main circuit is active. Just curious. :confused:

Separate topic - do you still want the spare side window for your wagon? All you have to do is stop by and I'll send it home with you. I don't need/want it, so if it doesn't find a new home it will eventually end up in the clear glass bin at the recycler. :(

[Nathan289]

Roger,

I feel your pain. I bought 3 supposedly rebuilt 1100s for the 62 wagon years ago. Some of these rebuilds I was getting from rebuild shops were horrible. I robbed them of parts and sent them back with notes showing them how they weren't right.
I believe I ended up finding a solid core off an econoline van.

Ive even taken running 1100s into carb rebuilders to get them back and they wont run. I've come to the conclusion that carbs are a bitch.

Problem is the Holleys aren't much better but classic in lines sells an all brand new Holley clone. The problem is it requires a distributor swap (more $) that distributor swap will be a later 5/16 oil pump drive shaft not the early 1/4. So swapping oil pumps would also be required. Have you priced I6 oil pumps?

So by the time im finished with the swap it would be over $600

If thats what I have to do I will but im not at that point yet.

Whats bugging me is yesterday it fired up, once warm ran great. Drove it around the block. Came home shut it off, took a 15 minute break came back out started it up and it wouldn't idle again. I kept it running for a while but I eventually let it die.
pulled plugs and they looked lean. Last time it did this they were rich. So I dont get it. Something in the carb either changes or something in the ignition system changes.
I need to put a dwell meter on it and see what I have going on.

it also sounds like I have a miss.

[Luva65wagon]

Here's an image of the idle circuit. It does use the main jet as a feed source, so the idle bleed sizing, etc., may not be matched for the jet as you have it now. How much bigger did you make it?

I did some checking last night as I was digging through all the carb parts I have (have I mentioned I have a lot of them now?) and it seems the number actually represents the size in thousands of an inch. So a 58 is .058 and 62 is .062 and so on. So a 58 can be made a 59, but a 62 can't be made a 59. And these would be reamed sizes. Using drill bits, in brass, can rip the holes way bigger than the drill size.

The 1100 also suffers from potential internal and external vacuum leaks. The power valve circuit is just under the larger vacuum plug (expanded into the hole in the top of the carb). These are almost always buggered up and so I replace them and apply a small bead of JB Weld to make them totally vacuum tight. I've also found, even at best, these valve hang up. You can't pull them out, so you can only clean them and hope for the best. I use a vacuum tester/brake bleeder and test these thoroughly now.

And yes, I went over all of this spark control stuff and what would be required to negate it (oil pump, shaft, distributor with mechanical and vacuum advance) when lamenting over the carb issues with that Comet last year. It's not easy to doing something stock anymore. That's why I, and many others, upgraded to a Weber, electronic ignition, etc. It can be done stock, but it's not as easy as it once was when everything was new.

[Nathan289]

When rebuilding my carb, I took the jet out and sized it with a number drill bit. I then used the next size drill bit to enlarge the jet.

You wouldn't think it would make a huge difference but maybe.

The funny thing is when I removed the plugs yesterday they now looked lean?
So I'm confused as why it was running rich earlier.. plugs were sooted.

I've changed so much stuff I don't know when and where I went from rich to lean.

I do have a miss in it so I wonder if the miss is because its lean now?

[Luva65wagon]

That power valve depends on full vacuum at idle to pull that plunger inside up hard against the ball and close off the main jet. If that isn't happening correctly the thing could be sucking fuel past the main jet when it shouldn't.

This is the hardest part of this carb to deal with since you can't [really] pull that section of the carb apart. As long as it seems to move freely by hand applying light pressure to it and letting it go - and the plug on the top of the carb isn't leaking - it should close off. But you can't inspect the ball or the seat to see whether, even if the ball goes up against it, it will stop the flow of fuel. I took to turning the bowl over, using a drift, and pressing the lever end against the ball and giving it a light whack with a hammer to seat that ball a few times. Then before assembling it all I used a suction in the correct hole (and plugging off another in the same circuit) and sucked to see if the lever lifted. When it did a few times in a row - I called it good.

Of course I knew none of this last year. I spent many hours standing at the bench studying this thing.

[Nathan289]

I seem to be running lean now.

Im wondering if the initial rich reading was from the plugs not getting cleaned yet from running retarded.

I pulled the original fouled plugs yesterday and they look like its lean now.
I put in new plugs a heat range colder and ran it today for 30 minutes and they came out as clean as when I installed them.

I'm going to tear the carb apart and try again..

Im also going to study the distributor tear down section in the manual. If I can by a new distributor without the spark control valve but put the smaller drive shaft gear from my distributor, I might buy the new Holley clone.

Nathan

[Nathan289]

Roger,

I think I found my problem..

I had someone tell me to try and set the initial timing at 16-18* with vacuum disconnected..

So I did that.. what I found is, I must have fiddled with timing with vacuum hooked up. Because with the vacuum disconnected it was retarded..

At 16* I had a knock.. not sure it was from timing or from fuel pump, but I didn't like it. So I backed off timing to 10* knock went away.. I then adjusted idle and mixture.. I lowered idle down and it started to roll, so I'd trim the fuel mixture and rpms would pick back up. I did this multiple times until I got the mixture screw about 2 turns out and idle speed was at 650.

I then bumped timing down to 8* and fine tuned the mixture and speed.

I hooked up the vacuum advance, everything was good until I reved the engine.. timing jumped to 20* rpms jumped to 1180 and it stayed there..

Wouldn't drop. I had to disconnect vacuum for the rpms and timing to go back to normal.

I think I have a bad distributor. Its original wouldn't surprise me if it needed replacement.

Not sure if its the springs inside, diaphragm, or binding but I think I found my problem.. if so its cheaper than a new carb.

Well I'm on my first night of graves for awhile, distributor won't be fixed for awhile.

Nathan

[Luva65wagon]

I believe there's a spring in the vacuum diaphragm of the distributor. But it looks like you're on to something. With the car off, cap off, work the point plate by hand and see if you move it towards the vacuum diaphragm and let go, it should return on it's own. If not, it may be a gummed or binding point plate or the diaphragm is bad.

The other jet is on the way - so if you use it great. If you don't need it, hold on to it - I may need it again.

;)

[Nathan289]

I've had someone offer to re-curve my distributor and I'm going to go that route, after I install the new vacuum diaphragm.

there might be some binding inside the distributor between the advance plates. So I'll see what I can do about fixing that problem too.

I did some calculation for the guy who is re-curving my distributor.
apparently when I rebuilt the motor I bumped the compression ratio up to around 9.3:1 but it.could be as high as 10:1 as I didnt measure the combustion chamber size of the heads when I rebuilt it. So my number is going off what ford says it's supposed to be.

with my choice of cam with a short duration and low octane I found the source of my knock noise when I advanced it to 16*.
looks like premium fuel is in my future. Oops.. oh and my drilled carb jet is probably a good thing now..

got the box of goodies.. the tailgate bumpers are cool..