Drag Racing Seat Belts

[BadBird]

Any of you drag racers know how I can install seat belts that will be acceptable for drag racing without changing my interior and adding roll bars??
Also, I am installing the driveshaft safety loop this week, I also need to install a kill switch at the back of the car.
Not sure of any other things so please let me know if you can. Larry

[642dw]

There are a few things you will need to pass a tech inspection I imagine you all ready have some or all of them.

Radiator over flow catch can

Battery hold downs that are at least 3/8" diameter and closed ends

Wheel studs that protrude past your log nuts by a couple threads

If battery is in the trunk the rear seat area needs to be fully enclosed unless
battery is in a approved box vented to the outside

If battery is in stock location you do not need a cut off switch

If you are running slicks then you need to have a metal valve stem

As far as seat belts you can use stock seat belts, if you change to a five point seat belt it will have to up to current date, since you dont have a roll bar this is not an option.

If you are running an automatic you must have a neutral safety switch

You can run upto an 11.49 before you need a rollbar

These rules mainly apply to NHRA tracks

I run a 72 Maverick with a 347 and can run under 11.40 but only do it once at a track before they tell me to slow it down, I dont have a roll bar and dont want to put one in

Be safe and have fun :3g:

[BadBird]

After doing the dyno run Saturday I also found out I should get some lower gear ratios in the back. I think mine is a 3:35 now and am not sure what gear ratio is best for some track usage and good cruising.

I have the overflow catch tank. I have my battery in the front and it will pass the tie down issue okay I think. Not sure about the lug nut issue. You can see pics of my car so maybe you can tell by them if they'll be okay.

I would remove my stereo system for drag racing due to weight and will be looking for some drag radials or slicks and will put them on stock steel wheels with the metal valve stems. Thanks for the help. Larry

[642dw]

From what I can see from your pictures it looks like your lug nuts are a closed type meaning you cant see the wheel stud, they have to be open at the end if the tech inspector wants to be picky.

I run 4:00 gears and I cross the finish line at 6,300 rpm at 117mph, cruising on the freeway at 60 I am running about 3,200 very nerve racking for a long cruise 3:50 gears would be just about right I have a c4 if it was a 5 speed or an aod it would be a different story.

Drag radials are okay because you can just drive to the strip and race no changing tires I would recommend BFGs they seem to have an edge over other drag radials. I have always ran slicks 26x8x15 MT on a 8x15 wheel with 4 1/2 backspace. I have that size tire on my 64 Falcon wagon and it is a very tight fit.

I hope you are running a 9" rearend because that will be your weak link, not so bad with an automatic though