T5 Project Coming Up

[pbrown]

I just bought a new T5 from Modern Driveline. They announced that they were raising pricing at the beginning of the year so I wanted to get the lower price. I got the forward shifter version with the electric speedo option and the standard OD (0.63 if I remember). With my tire size and rear gear I should drop my RPM at 65MPH from ~3100 to ~2200.
:3g:

Stay tuned for project updates.

[BadBird]

Congratulations, and if I can be of any help let me know. Sounds funny, me, asking if you need help. Anyway you are going to love shifting that beautiful little bird. Larry

[ew1usnr]

Wikipedia says:

The TREMEC T-5 is a 5-speed manual transmission (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manual_transmission) for longitudinal engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Longitudinal_engine) automobiles (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automobile). It includes one overdrive (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overdrive_(mechanics)) gear, a light-weight aluminum housing, and is adaptable for four wheel drive (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Four_wheel_drive) use. It is manufactured by Transmission Technologies Corporation (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_Technologies_Corporation), under the TREMEC brand name. The T-5 was originally designed by Borg-Warner (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borg-Warner) based on the T-4 and earlier SR4, and was sold as the Borg-Warner T-5 until the design was sold to TTC.

Applications (include)


1986-2004 Ford Falcon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_Falcon_(Australia))

[pbrown]

Larry,

What shift lever did you use for your conversion? Length? Did you get one of the optional shifters?

[Jeff W]

I would go with this one...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/XATS6700BNS/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710722168&catargetid=1784157978&cadevice=t&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPLylpz947sCFcQ9QgoddA8AEA
:banana:

[pbrown]

I would go with this one...

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/XATS6700BNS/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710722168&catargetid=1784157978&cadevice=t&&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPLylpz947sCFcQ9QgoddA8AEA
:banana:


That is for an automatic.

I'll be using this knob.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-sk-6872/overview/

... and this lever.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/MSL611D/10002/-1?parentProductId=1782312

[doghows]

That looks cool Patrick. Will switching to a manual mess with your injection at all?

[pbrown]

That looks cool Patrick. Will switching to a manual mess with your injection at all?

I'll have to do some tuning. My idle is a bit high right now to keep a good idle while in drive. I won't need to do that anymore. The highway cruising will be a lot lower as well so I'll want to adjust my AFR at that RPM/speed/load to 14.7-15.2'ish area.

I'm planning to upgrade the Megasquirt code to the new MS2-Extra 3.3.1 version anyway.

[doghows]

So yours is all adjustable where as with my setup a new computer would be needed. Cool will you be ready for show season?

[pbrown]

So yours is all adjustable where as with my setup a new computer would be needed.

You can change to a Megasquirt computer anytime you like. There is even an adapter that allows it to plug into the Ford wire harness. That would make things easy.


Cool will you be ready for show season?I hope so. Changing to a manual is a big job. I'll be starting with refurbishing my manual pedal setup. I'll send it your way for powder when ready. I ordered a ball bearing kit for it from Mustang Steve.

[doghows]

When ever you're ready. You going black or your burgundy?

[pbrown]

When ever you're ready. You going black or your burgundy?

I'm thinking burgundy.

[doghows]

Still got your box on the shelf so either way were good. :)

You back from Germany now?

[pbrown]

I am back. I wish I could have been there for the tech days. 2013 wasn't a good Falcon year for me. I hope to make it up in 2014.

[SmithKid]

I just converted to the ball-bearing kit..... noticeably smoother. Also cured a scrunching/popping noise caused by the little plastic piece on the end of the assist spring being missing which caused some additional wear on the clutch pedal.

[Jeff W]

That is for an automatic.

I'll be using this knob.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-sk-6872/overview/

... and this lever.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/MSL611D/10002/-1?parentProductId=1782312

I didn't even look at the rest of the shifter... just thought the skull knob reflected your crazy wild self.:ROTFLMAO:

[BadBird]

Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I used a Hurst shifter that is 12" from the floor. I did use one of the optional shifters from Modern Drivelines, but not the most expensive one. I think I am using the same ball that you show. Here is a bad pic of my shift lever. Larry

[pbrown]

A big box arrived yesterday with my new transmission. That's all I have so far. I still need to buy all of the other stuff to go with it. Things like clutch, bellhousing etc.

[doghows]

Yeah Christmas never ends when your building a falcon.

Picture it up, it's easier to see it now than crawl under your car!

[pbrown]

I'm finally getting started on this swap. Exhaust is removed with a little help from the sawzall. The drive-shaft is out and most of the fasteners.


BTW - Does anyone have a 10 spline clutch pilot tool I can borrow? The one that came in my new clutch was broken.

[Luva65wagon]

I have a universal kit. One size fits most. I may have splined version too. Have a few. What's the OD?

[BadBird]

I have the 10 spline that came with mine Pat. Just let me know how to get it to you Larry

[pbrown]

The C4 is officially out thanks to some help from Kenny. I have the new blockplate, flywheel, and pilot bearing installed.

Larry - I sent you a PM.

[pbrown]

I made some progress today. The the clutch is installed and the bellhousing. And yes, that is burgundy powder coating on the back of the engine block in case anyone was wondering.

[pbrown]

The tranny is in. I need to get my drive shaft shortened a bit. I also need to make a small mod near the cross member to allow the electric speedo connector to fit without binding.

It's a very tight fit. I had to cut off a 1/4" tab on the left side of the top cover in order to allow the transmission to clear the tunnel.

[BadBird]

Keep it up. Drive it to the meeting Wednesday? :WHATTHE: Looking really good and I know you are going to love it. Larry

[pbrown]

I need to get my pedal parts back from Steve before I can do anything.

I'll drop the driveshaft off at Drivelines NW on Tuesday.

[pbrown]

I managed to do a a little work this weekend.

The newly shortened driveshaft is installed and has a perfect 3/4" of exposed yoke on the slip joint.

I had to grind away a small amount of material in the cross brace to make room for the speedometer sending unit plug. The new tranny is has an electronic sending unit instead of a cable. It's in the same place as the cable would be and the plug would not allow the tranny to go high enough to sit on the new T5 crossmember.

Speaking of crossmembers, this new T5 crossmember has the parking brake pivot welded on too high. The parking brake parts touch the driveshaft. I'll need to cut that off and weld it back on one inch lower.

I'm also fiddling around with the exhaust. I have some 2 1/4" mandrel bent pieces from Summit Racing and I'm trying to figure out how to best go about fitting them in. There is a boss on the left side of the Ford Mustang T5 bellhousing for use with cable operated clutches. I'll be using a hydraulic clutch and might just cut this thing off. It would make the exhaust routing much easier.

[pbrown]

I'm slowly pecking away at this swap. I cut and rewelded the parking brake bracket. The modified crossmember fits very well.

I also started fitting the exhaust pieces this evening. The photo shows the beginning of the right side header connection.

I have to go to Portland this weekend so this will delay things further. I hope to have this thing done the following weekend.

[doghows]

How did your pedal assembly turn out? Did I plug all the right places?:D

[pbrown]

How did your pedal assembly turn out? Did I plug all the right places?:D

They look good. Thanks for getting them done.

[pbrown]

Progress is happening. The pedal set was assembled. I was stuck for a but on the clutch pedal stop. The original was badly deteriorated. I noodled around with different ideas and then found the perfect substitute. The next morning I was asked "Any idea what happened to the cutting board? It seems to be missing a piece."

The Modern Drivelines hydraulic clutch seems well engineered. It's all in there with exception of the reservoir. I need to fabricate a bracket to get it where I want. Then it will be ready to bleed and test.

[BadBird]

Fantastic, I know you are going to love this upgrade when finished. My brother is now thinking of going to the T5 after riding around in Reno for a week with his C-6 at 3600 RPM at 60MPH while I was at 1650. Keep on keepin on. Larry

[pbrown]

Very close now. Interior is put back in - carpet, drivers seat, steering column. I had to order a different shift lever. The original one would have looked cool but didn't have enough bend in it and my knuckles hit the dash knobs. I have a Hurst lever now with an off-white knob. That fits great.

I connected the speedo which is in my case electric.

I still need to bleed the clutch master/slave. That requires two people. I also need to fabricate a bracket for the reservoir. I'll do that tomorrow evening.

I'm looking for an idea for a material to create a seal out of for the interior tunnel hole. I want to keep fumes, water, and noise out as much as possible. Maybe a heavy rubber sheet of some kind. Thoughts?

[Luva65wagon]

You wont get much water up there, if any, but maybe stop at Les Schwab and see if they have any truck inner tube rubber.

[BadBird]

Alas, I didn't put anything over the cutout on mine. It never gets wet, never smell anything and I drive with my headers open quite a bit as you know. Maybe should have done something, ?? Larry

[pbrown]

I took the car out for it's first drive on the new T5 this morning. It was a short drive to the exhaust shop. The old exhaust interfered with the new T5 bellhousing. I still need to come up with a shifter boot but other than that it should be done.

[Luva65wagon]

Do you have a Hurst-style rectangular shaft or a round style shifter shaft? Can you use the factory style that uses this style ring? They are pretty looking compared to many of the after-market flimsy chrome floor shift rings w/boot. I suspect the round hole boot would conform nice to the rectangular shaft, if asked to.

http://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1965-4-SPEED-SHIFT-BOOT-RETAINER-CHROME-RINGS-153p408.htm

[pbrown]

Do you have a Hurst-style rectangular shaft or a round style shifter shaft?

I have a Hurst rectangular shift lever. I have a trim ring. I just need to come up with a good way to mount a flat ring to a curved tunnel.

[pbrown]

I picked up the car from Ballard Muffler. I changed to a 2.25" exhaust. It was 2.5" and had clearance issues that way it was bent and installed.

I also changed to 426 Hemi mufflers. They are quite large and nearly twice the length of my old ones. The car is a lot more quiet now. This should make the wife a little happier as she always complained about the noise.

I kept the original 2.5" pipe from the muffler back and had the stainless tips fixed so they stick out the same length on both sides.

I need to recalibrate my speedometer. It's electronic. It reads over 120MPH when slowly cruising through Ballard.

[Luva65wagon]

My setup is from Modern Driveline.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/hydraulics.htm

The changes made at the meeting made a big improvement on feel. It's much lighter feeling now. I'll work on it tomorrow evening and see if I can eliminate the lateral flex..

Maybe go for the cable setup for the Mustang. Look into the Mustang Steve stuff. It looks good.
http://www.mustangsteve.com/cable.html

If you look at the pics on their site you can see what I was saying about the connection to the pedal not being parallel to the push rod into the master. Yours is up high and pushing down at the lever instead of against it. Text on the page is vague too: Uses stock clutch rod hole (where possible) for ease of installation.

Clearly not your hole.

[Luva65wagon]

Here's the image showing a correct orientation. Theoretically the lower hole should be a pull not a push against connection. You're pushing downward at it.

[pbrown]

I talked to Modern Driveline. They say that the problem was caused by the over center condition on the linkage. I took things apart. The bushing are bad so they are sending new ones. The rod to the MC needs to be as short as possible so that the lever almost touches the firewall when engaged. This will improve the angle of attack from the pedal linkage.

I'm leaving town tomorrow for a week so will not be able to finish this up until I return.