Calling all ring experts

[dhbfaster]

So, took the ring gear out to get a look at it today. Pics attached. The "pitting" is why the guy at the shop said I should replace it. On the west coat differentials website failure analysis page, it looks like it might be from over heating. (Except that it's not this way all around it...which leads me to think it's just from corrosion.) Anyway...it just doesn't look that bad to me (and I haven't found a better replacement yet.) Any opinions?

[falcon cobra]

That don't look bad. if it don't howl just drive it. when a car sits for a long time in the cold, part of the ring is not in the oil and that leads to rust or pitting...jh

[dhbfaster]

Really appreciate your input and I think I'm going with it on the ring and pinion-especially since nobody sells a replacement(!). Now what about these bearings? (pics attached.)
They look worse than the ring to me... and this whole thing is on the bench at this point, there is the risk I could screw it up, but I figure I"m this deep I might as well get through it and replace them and the pinion seal was leaking like crazy so I have to get into that end anyway to replace the seal. Thoughts? I'd love for someone to tell me I'm crazy- save my money, but I don't ever want to take this thing out again. 50 years, 1000 miles/year is all i want out of it...all input most appreciated.

[Jeff W]

I would keep the ring set and replace the bearing and race.

Consider the axle bearings as long as it's all out and easy to get at.

[Luva65wagon]

You're getting far more noise from those that one bearing alone than you would from the ring gear (of what I've seen anyway).

Bearings and seals are readily available, I'm sure, so for sure do all the bearings and seals and it'll last you a long time. Those 7.25" rear-ends show up a lot used, so chances are you'll find a ring gear in the future if it's ever an issue.

[dhbfaster]

Thanks everyone. Al the other bearings were about like that one. I bought the full set of bearings and seals today. The guy at west coast differentials (Ed) was very helpful (and actually replied to emails) and he gave confident advice and said the same thing you guys said. The total price was the best too. Www.differentials.com Now I just need time to get it done.

[dhbfaster]

Most respeced Advisors...

Please see the attached pic of the yoke on my diffy...it's the wrong angle to see what I'm talking about but that collar on there is just kind of dangling on there with lots of room to bounce around (I'm surprised it didn't wound like a tin can)...I can't really tell what the purpose is- I would think it is to protect the oil seal. Any recomendations on whether or not I should basically glue this to the oil seal or diffy housing after I reinstall?

Also on the Axle bearings...I haven't replaced them yet, but when I do, should I also put sealer (or even loctite?) around the bearings themselves? (I see the recomendations to put sealer around the oil seals...I don't see anything about the bearings) It looks like there has been some water leakage around mine leaving a bit of "wet" rust in there when I pulled them out- and it seems like they came out pretty easily. That said, I didn't see any evidence they were spinning....but I'm a little worried they might spin if I clean up the light layer of rust even slightly.

Meanwhile...got the carrier and the pinion bearings all off. (My harbor freight bearing removal kit barely survived...but it got the job done.) Waiting for the new axle bearings and seals before I take those off...I was sent the ones for the wagon by mistake.

Advice most appreciated as always!

[Luva65wagon]

Never seen such a thing myself. Should be more obvious the purpose, if any, after you pull the yoke.

As for wheel bearings - generally nothing is needed or recommended. The bearings are more prone to spin, as bearings, than the outer race will in the housing. The weight of the vehicle also impedes any tendency to spin. Only way it would would be catastrophic bearing failure, which would likely also show up as load noises long before.

Most likely the reason for any rust is just due to condensation or bad backing plate gaskets and going through puddles. Clean it all up and just lube the seal and polish the axle to seal surface of any surface rust too.

[doghows]

You are correct it's to keep crud from ruining your seal. Leave her be.
Do not use anything on the bearings that would be bad but you could put some RTV around the seal area before you press then in. Couldn't hurt but I usually just tap them in with a hammer.
Bring it all over here quick and we'll make it purdy black like genes pedals and Gina's engine pieces in the cheap powder cot thread.
Hope that helps and I'm sure others will give you there procedure too. Keep at it only 5 months till show season. :rocker:

[Jeff W]

One of mine had that protective collar but it was tight and not jiggling around. I think I would figure out a way to secure it... maybe a couple of tack welds with your new wire feed.

[dhbfaster]

Anyone know where I can get new bolts for the cover plate of my diffy?

[Luva65wagon]

Are they rusted away? What do they look like?

[dhbfaster]

They were pretty rusted but not destroyed. I don't want to put rusted bolts on my beautiful new powdercoated axle and diffy cover. I had them in rusteco for a couple weeks...they got better but still pretty bad. Then I put them back in fresh rusteco for a couple more weeks (I think I spent more on rusteco than new bolts would have cost- not too impressed with the stuff)...they're definitely saveable now unless the threads end up loose with all the rust gone.. I think I can clean them up and powdercoat them...and that's more work too and I have a lot of work to do, but I might end up powdercoating new ones to match anyway.

Is there a thread anywhere on where to find replacement bolts, screws and clips and wire holders? A lot of mine are saveable, but a lot would seem to be better to replace if the price is reasonable. For example..those big headed round pan head philips screws around the headlights that mount the housings to the body...the heads are totally stripped-out-trashed on the passenger side where there was an accident one time. I haven't seen these anywhere yet. The fender bolts...I've seen the bolts on falconparts.com but can't find the clips. A couple of my clips are broken. I've seen "parkerized" versions of the fender bolts cheap...but I'm not familiar with parkerizing. Anyone know if it's any good?

[redfalken]

When I was first working on my Falcon, I bought a lot of clips, bolts, and weatherstripping from Restoration Specialties. Their web site isn't very high tech. You'll have to download a pdf catalog and browse through it.

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/index.html

Did you check with West Coast Differentials about the bolts? I'd be surprised if they didn't carry them or know where to get them.

[Luva65wagon]

As with the gas tank many parts sold for the Mustang fit the Falcon. Certainly a lot of hardware bits do. I'd peruse the NPDlink.com site, cjponyparts.com, and any other Mustang vendors you can find. You can also get a lot of bolts and j-nuts at Wesco Autobody supply. Close enough for the not so obvious bolts and especially the j-nuts. Melvins is also a good place for specialty items.

In case you didn't see it, we also have a resources section on this site, over there on the top left of the Home page. Here's the link though:

http://www.rainierfalcons.com/resources.php

For 'good' rusty bolts I've been using CLR (Home Depot has a large jug of an off-brand far cheaper than the actual CLR brand) and letting them soak a few days at most. All the rust is gone and once gone the bolts can be either replated or painted. For many bolts I used Eastwood blackening kit, which puts a nice black oxide finish on them. I've never powder coated bolts, since it is too thick for threads.

[doghows]

Yup powder will definitely mess up your threads. When I do them I wrap the threads with foil and powder the head part only. [thumb]

[dhbfaster]

Thanks for all the resources everyone...I will go looking this weekend.
One question left- (I have powdercoated some bolts with the technique Steve mentioned-covering the threads with foil..) is it ok to spray paint the threads with say rustoleum? or better to just put some of the rust preventative stuff on there and leave it like that?

[Luva65wagon]

Depending on where they are, you may be able to install them and then spray them with paint, or undercoating, from the back-side.

For stuff I plan to keep bare metal I spray them with Boe-shield, which you can get from Tacoma Screw and other places. Not quite like cosmoline thick, but it is what Boeing designed and uses to protect airplane parts from rusting.