Interior misc paint advice needed

[dhbfaster]

Looking to paint some of the various not highly, but slightly cosmetic interior metal parts soon...(61)the parking brake handle housing, metal parts on the seat, different brackets, maybe the steering column etc....any advice on which version of black to use? What brands? What primer, etc.?
Thanks...!

[Vikingblu]

Looking to paint some of the various not highly, but slightly cosmetic interior metal parts soon...(61)the parking brake handle housing, metal parts on the seat, different brackets, maybe the steering column etc....any advice on which version of black to use? What brands? What primer, etc.?
Thanks...!

Spray gun or rattle can?

[dhbfaster]

I was thinking rattle can at least for the small stuff, but I also need to paint the seat frames...open to advice! I'm new at painting, I don't have my own gun yet and my current compressor is only 5.8 Cfm at 90 or I think 7.8 at 40. I've seen some sprayers at Eastwood made for that cfm level...but no idea if they are any good. Again...open to advice.

[pbrown]

Powder coat the seat frames.

Here is a decent low cost paint gun that you could use. It's great for beginners and works well with smaller compressors.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LVLP-Gravity-Feed-Spray-Gun-Assembly-with-1-4mm-Nozzle-/190287595906?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item2c4e064982&vxp=mtr

[Ageless]

If ya want to rattle can; Ace Hardware has Rustoleum @2/$5 this weekend. I'm using the satin finish black on suspension parts

[Jeff W]

I used Satin Black Rust -oleum with Rust-oleum Automotive Primer for most of my brackets and out of way things that don't get wear or handled. It was already a huge project that I just wanted to keep it moving along. I would do that bit again. Of course if Steve and Doghouse Powder was closer I totally would have went that route. Steve powder coated my five wheels White and they are better than awesome!

For the dash, doors, steering column I bought special interior paint in cans from NPD (National Parts Depot) . It looks good but I would use a real spray set up with hardener next time. The rattle can finish chips easily and I have to be extremely careful when using chemicals to clean off things like window sealer or trim adhesive.

I used SEM universal color coat for the kick panels, door handles and other plastic bits. That is tough stuff. I used the Dupli - color "Adhesion Promoter " prior to the SEM color and am very pleased. Looks good and is holding up well. I also bought the SEM from NPD as the price was best I could find.

[dhbfaster]

Thanks everyone for all the advice so far.
Patrick, I can see why you powdercoated the seat frames. I was thinking about that...do you mind if I ask about how much that would cost?
Or...Steve...if you see this post, please chime in.
They would need to be blasted too.

[pbrown]

Patrick, I can see why you powdercoated the seat frames. I was thinking about that...do you mind if I ask about how much that would cost?
Or...Steve...if you see this post, please chime in.
They would need to be blasted too.

I'll let Steve reply to the powder coating question.

[Luva65wagon]

I used to use Krylon due to the fast-dry and use reason, but found it to be fast dry but not very durable at all. I found the Rustoleum 7777 (rattle-can or quarts I see no difference in quality) to be very durable. It is what I sprayed the exterior of the Ranchero and under the hood. Takes about 8-hours to dry, but that appears to be worth it.

[doghows]

Powder is the way to go. Give me an idea of what you want to coat. Is it a bench seat? Bottom and backs? Stripped of all upholstry?
If you get them to me naked and all I got to do is blast em and coat em you are looking at $100. I usually get 2-250 for that just cause they suck to blast.
I've always said that any paid club member gets a huge discount from me. Except Roger he get free (seen my dash gauges) for life.
Anyway if you can get it to me you won't be disappointed.
Hope that helps. Steve.

[dhbfaster]

The seats are full one piece across bench seats (one piece seat bottom and another piece back rest) for the front and back. I could bring them with all the Upholstry off (just painted metal and a little rust). I just want to make sure the upholstry guy doesn't need the old upholstry for any reason (but it's all trash).

Sounds like I need a trip over...

Where can I check out the gages Roger did for you?

[doghows]

Go to the reconstruction has begun thread. That has the whole build on my car. Gauges are on the last most current page.
Front and back seat would be closer to $200 for all of it maybe less once I see them.

[dhbfaster]

Any advice on what to prep and paint the outside of the gas tank with?
I've seen the Eastwood paint for it. Anyone tried it?
Steve- yours really looks nice- I'd like to know what you used to paint yours.

[BPVan]

I painted my tank with Eastwoods Rust encapsulator then sprayed two coats of this stuff on it:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002HOLLC8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seems rugged but don't spill too much gas on it.

[dhbfaster]

Any thoughts on what bottom paint to use? I have one rusted through spot to fix, but other than that it looks pretty good. It doesn't seem worth taking all the old paint off. I was thinking of cleaning& power wire brushing and then just painting over that with primer and a top coat and/or all or maybe a combo of that and por-15 undercoat for the heavy splash areas. I have a can of por-15 and a can of chassis coat black...but the info says por-15 is only for bare metal or rust, and the chassis coat info implies it is only to paint over the por-15. ( the por-15 undercoat says its ok to spray over paint if it's scuffed up first with wire brush/ sanded, etc.) Any thoughts most appreciated!

[doghows]

I used the Eastwood zinc tank paint on mine. I would have powder coated it but they are soldered in places and that won't take the oven.

[BadBird]

I the Eastwood Zinc paint on the gas tank. I sprayed the whole bottom of my car with "Zero-Rust" from Eastwood and then sprayed it all with Rubberized Undercoating also from Eastwood. Larry

[dhbfaster]

Thanks BadBird...what kind of prep is required for that before the zero rust goes on?

Doghous...I did see your gas tank and it does look really nice...what did you use for the bottom sheet metal?

[doghows]

My whole car including the underside was powder coated with an epoxy primer powder. Then I under coated the whole thing with a product call " Fast" undercoat. I got it from Baxters and it goes on with a Shoots gun.

[BadBird]

Don, I sandblasted the whole underneath to get rid of all the old paints and undercoatings to bare metal. I cleaned that surface with acetone and then sprayed the Zero-rust per the cans directions. There are a lot of other products that do the same thing. Then I sprayed the Rubberized Undercoating over that with a special little gun that attaches right to the can. Works well and hopefully I won't ever have any rust issues.
The undercoating cleans off well between shows with simple green. Larry

[dhbfaster]

I ended up buying the POR-15 gas tank kit and the Eastwood zinc paint that Steve and Larry recomended. Gas tank out now...gas was pretty clean, a look in the fill hole and the tank is clean inside, a little gunk by the drain plug-not much, BUT

See the pics-The rust on the outside edge is worse than it first appeared and my real concern is how the seam seems to be opened up a bit. First I thought it went all the way through to the inside- but i couldn't get a feeler gage to poke thorugh the weld. Now that it's out I wonder if it's worth spending the time, the $$ I spent on the restore kit and paint on it-which probably costs more than the cheap new tanks available online. I wanted to keep the original tank...one thing I can say is that this thing is tough- I can stand on it and it barely bends at all. (but if the seam eventually pops, or pops in an accident who cares?) If I buy a new cheap one ($100) are they as tough as the original? or, has anyone ever bought one of the ones from Macs? ($259) Are they any different than the cheap ones? are they close to origional? As usual...all advice appreciated. :confused:

[doghows]

Don if I remember right the tanks are "pinched" on the sides. There is a bit of lip that is not welded to the other half. I would clean that area up with a wire brush, apply the POR-15 generously and continue with the zinc. If you can not see the rust inside the tank at that seam it's a good bet it is only on the outside where that "overlap" is.. HTH [thumb]

[Luva65wagon]

Save yourself some grief - get a Mustang tank and relocate the filler into the trunk. Cheap and drops right in. I spent hours and hours trying to revive a tank... only to replace it later. That tank in the pictures looks like a mess.

[dhbfaster]

I know people don't like it...but I like the filler where it's been for the last 52 years. Why a mustang gas tank and not a falcon gas tank?

[redfalken]

I think most people, me included, go for the Mustang tank for 3 reasons.

1. You get a few extra gallons of fuel capacity.

2. The original filler tube makes it difficult to fill using most modern pump nozzles. With the Mustang filler being centered and pointing straight up, you can move it inside the trunk. You'll just need to add a vent.

3. And it's cheaper! Ford guys are renowned for being cheap. ;)

Here's a shot of mine.

[BadBird]

One of the first things I did was buy a new tank off of Ebay. It was a direct replacement and for quite awhile I thought like you that I would keep the fill tube as stock. But after pouring half my gas on t,he concrete and on the back end of my car I put the filler inside and love it. My filler is covered by my fiberglass surround in the trunk and I love the easy fill ups now. Trust these guys, they know what they are talking about. All their years of experience tells us what is best.

[dhbfaster]

I saw those gas tanks on ebay. About $100 new with the sending unit and all. You're happy with the quality and thickness of the steel?
Ok, you guys are staaarrrrting to change my mind on the filler-filling it inside the trunk that is. I'm thinking I can keep it looking origional on the outside, but fill inside the trunk. Sounds like I need to buy the mustang tank with the straight filler tube now- when I search ebay (or the web) for the mustang gas tank- What year mustang and how do I know it will fit?

AND, are the holes in the flange in the mustang gas tank in the correct place? or will i have to drill new holes in the car?
AND, Larry if yours is a falcon direct replacement, how do you handle the angled fill tube inside?


By the way, thanks for the comments everyone and thanks for the pic Kenny...

[BadBird]

I am very happy with what I have. It wasn't difficult for me to hook up a straight tube with mine, but Roger and several others have experience with the Mustang tanks which I don't have. I would listen to their advice.

My car has the original gas cap on the back and all looks stock from that point.

It was an easy fix and someone in the club may have a straight tube from a truck like I used. Larry

[redfalken]

Here's a thread that has some good info on the filler conversion:

http://www.rainierfalcons.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465

You can get the `65-`68 Mustang 16-gallon tank, It will bolt in directly and all the bolt holes will line up.

Some people use there old filler tube but I took one off an old 70's Ford truck from the junk yard. The non-vented lid I bought fit it perfectly and it's straight, not curved like the original. Look for a truck with the tank inside, behind the seat.

You should have a vent tube on your old tank. You will need to have that cut off, drill a hole in the same location of the new tank, and braze the vent tube over the hole. I had a muffler shop do the brazing for me.

The tank needs to vent like it did originally to the outside. You want a non-vented cap so you don't get fumes in the trunk. The vent tube is the most complicated part. Not a very good photo but this is the vent tube with the hose and line attached.

[Luva65wagon]

I've pulled off and given or sold (at cost) about 5 or 6 of the 67-72 F100 truck necks. Heck, I may still have one buried in my piles and piles of stuff. I tend to grab them when I see them. PicknPull used to (before they sold their souls to the devil) for like $2. Now they'll probably want $20 for one - and ask for a core charge.

I wasn't aware the Mustang tank didn't have the vent. I've never done the conversion, but didn't we do Joanna's at a tech day at Gene's when we installed her new windshield? Had she already had this tube welded onto it or did we only add the tube to her existing tank? Where did the Mustang vent tube go when it was on the Mustang? They had vents too, didn't they? Gosh, more to investigate... :D

[Luva65wagon]

Also, you might want to consider (for future conversions) to add the vent to the upper part of the filler neck instead of to the tank. Serves the same purpose but may also minimize any "oops" overflow while filling. But probably not. But it would make the add of a vent tube easier to manage on the smaller part.

[redfalken]

Strange, I did a quick eBay search and don't even see the vent tube on the Falcon tanks. Well, my old original tank had it for sure.

Because of a rear ender, I've installed a couple of new tanks over the years. I had to have a vent tube brazed in both. I had to find a new tube for the current, second tank because by the time I cut off the original that was brazed on the first replacement and filed it square, it was too short. I ended up using the nipple off an old PCV valve and it worked great.

I kept mine in the original position on the tank because I didn't want to bend the tubing that runs along the back panel and vents outside. It's connected to the tank with a 2" long piece of rubber fuel line.

And I don't remember the details of Joanna's install. I'll have to check it out next time we get together.

[BadBird]

The Tank that I bought off of ebay was for a Falcon and it accepted a straight tube addition very easily and has the stock vent tube location. I am not sure, but I think John Henry sold me the pipe that he had extra. It goes behind my fiberglas shroud also so it is covered. When I fill up, i just lift the fiberglas part off, fill it up and set it back in place. It is so easy without all the mess now. Thanks to the members who talked me into doing the change. Well worth the effort. Larry

[dhbfaster]

Larry is your filler fitting on the tank angled or pointed straight up?
If seems like I can save one step if the vent tube is already there on the tank.

[BadBird]

It has a slight tilt to it, but the straight pipe fits well and won't cause you a problem. Oh Yeah. It's 81 degrees here in Blythe California today. Driving on in to Tucson tomorrow and pulling out the golf clubs. Larry

[doghows]

Oh yeah, it's 80 degrees here uhrrr in my shop!?! Crap I want to go to Az..
Sorry for the interruption. :D

[dhbfaster]

Now now, don't get a sun burn...

Larry is this tank on ebay like the one you've got?
It seems to portray some quality, it has the vent tube, sending unit and all..and if I can fit up the straight filler it seems like the way to go at $159

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Falcon-Comet-Gas-fuel-tank-Sending-Unit-mounting-Kit-Free-Shipping-/201039087306?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorie s&fits=Year%3A1961%7CModel%3AFalcon&hash=item2ecedd06ca&vxp=mtr

[dhbfaster]

OK, while Larry's busy golfing and sun bathing...I called Scott Drake who sells gas tanks through summit where I bought the por-15 kit I need to return to them-I was hoping for an easy exchange for a tank..Scott Drake sells the falcon tanks and the mustang tanks so I called to ask about the differences. The first thing the guy said was "Duh! that's why the trunk mat I sold that guy won't fit his falcon- he's got a mustang tank!"
None of the tanks they sell (including the falcon tank) are vented- so I would have to take care of that- he said the only difference between the tanks is the location and angle of the filler.
Do any of you with a mustang tank have a trunk mat issue?
Do any of you know if I go with OFI for a trunk mat along with the rest of the interior, will they custom cut it to fit the mat around the mustang filler at center back anyway?

[redfalken]

What I did with my trunk mat was to cut a circle the same diameter as the factory opening with an exacto knife in the centered position for the Mustang tank. Move the circle piece you cut out to "plug" the old Falcon hole. I used some contact cement and a patch of fabric on the back side, bigger than the hole, to adhere the piece of the mat you moved. Can hardly tell.

You can see a bit of it in this photo.

[dhbfaster]

Got it, a little custom work, but it looks good-really appreciate the pic Kenny.
So I'm trying to do the return and order the tank and sending unit from Summit...going with the mustang 16 gallon tank. Does anyone know if I need the sending unit with the 3/8" tube float or the one with the 5/16" version?? (These are the units for the 64 mustang which should fit the mustang tank I'm buying...) The notes say the 5/16" version is for cars WITHOUT a low fuel warning system...which I assume is the one I need correct? (I don't recall a low fuel warning system..but it's not like I have driven this car much..)
Also, stainless steel float is $10 more than plastic float...anyone seen any differences plastic vs stainless floats? I would ASSume stainless is better...but not sure if that's the case.

[dhbfaster]

Anyone have any comments about the fuel sending units and floats I mention below? (Float size or stainless vs plastic?)

[doghows]

I replaced mine with a brass one. Plastic seems cheap to me, and stainless?? I guess between the two I would go stainless. I don't think size matters as long as it floats the sender itself does all the work. :BEER:

[pbrown]

The 5/16" vs 3/8" is the fuel outlet size. If keeping stock or stock'ish, stay with 5/16". Use 3/8" if you plan any performance upgrades. Then replace the line up to the engine with 3/8" also.

[doghows]

Ooooopps my bad. Did I mention I turned 50 this year??:confused:

[dhbfaster]

Whew....the description on the summit site is horrible. (and I also just turned 50!)
:doh::doh:Duh, I checked on the Scott Drake site and it's a lot more clear- 5/16 (or 3/8) stainless stainless steel tube, brass float (or plastic). Thank you Patrick!![yay] appreciate the teamwork everyone!

[Jeff W]

For what it is worth... my brass float cracked and filled with gas. I took it out and soldered it up. Worked fine until I sold the car to Kenny and he put a new tank in. Given a choice I would go with a plastic one.

[dhbfaster]

It's worth $11! (I'll take it.) I was just looking for the right reason not to spend it on the metal one...plastic has come a long way since '61 and nobody will see it. Thanks Jeff!

[dhbfaster]

Just a follow up on all the bottom paint advice I had on this thread (and so you guys know I haven't been totally sitting on my butt since I started this thread) ...I finally got the bottom done.
I had the one spot that needed to be welded. Pic attached.
I found a car guy welder refered by my optomitrist who turned out to be quite a hot rod builder...another new friend...he did a great job on this and the couple other things I needed for much less than the cost of a welder, and I got free welding lessons.
Other than that spot, the actual bottom of the car was pretty good. I completely cleaned all the old undercoating off the fenders and bottom along with some rust cleaning and zinc phosphate treatment where it made sense, and completely scraped and scoured the entire bottom. I treated everything with either the Eastwood Pre or Laquer thinner before painting, and then painted the entire bottom and fenders with the eastwood rust encapsulator, and in the fenders and rear I followed that by the rubberized rust encapsulator, and then switched to the regular. (By the way...I don't recomend the Eastwood rubberized rust encapsulator....impossible to get more than 50% out of a can!:doh:) (the regular stuff in the spray cans worked beautiful.)
Still can't find them, but my abs have to be much improved, but most importantly the bottom and inside of the fenders are now a work of art painted black with a perfect light rubberized texture that seems to be stuck on pretty well. Pic of the font fenders attached.
For most of the actual underside the primer was on there so good, it didn't make sense to take it off. Pic of the nice pink bottom attached. I'll try to get a pic of the bottom when I get a chance. All the suspension parts are ready. Now...time to get that rear axle back together and get this thing on wheels again!

[doghows]

Nice work Don. Trust me all the hard work will be worth it in the end. I just hope you don't spend five years doing it like I did. [thumb]

[Luva65wagon]

And don't try to do it in 9 months like I did either.

Find the balance in your universe.

This message brought to you my the world council of Falcons.

[dhbfaster]

Lessons learned...multiply every estimate of time to get something done by four![thumb]
I have at least another year..(4?)..but I made a pact in the beginning that I would not let this get in the way of other stuff, i would not let it add pressure to life...only fun. So far, so good and my wife is still tolerating it...only complaint was when I did some paint removal and blew the dust all over the rest of the garage..:D..it will be a while before I live that one down...or ever get it entirely cleaned up!:::NERVOUS: I've decided the rest of the paint removal is probably going to be done somewhere else.

By the way Steve - my powdercoating oven burned out on me! I think maybe a little powder got onto the controller. My wife went into the garage and said...something's burning! I looked all over and couldn't find it. Installed a smoke alarm...had the fire extinguisher ready to go. Finally did some cleaning...found a little powder stuck there on the top of the oven near the controller...said hummm only heat would do that. Turned on the oven....and ZZZZKKZZZZZ instant electrical fire. Turned it off...back on, off. Yep, that's it. Pulled off the back panel...yep, panel is fried. (I like to be sure.)
More good reason to send all the powdercoating out!
Oh...the other reason...my 2nd harbor freight blaster died after 5 min of true use! First one blew a hole at the weld (after 4 min), 2nd one blew a hole in the valve! (90psi) Some harbor freight stuff is ok, but stay away from their blasting stuff.