New project wireing problem

[olgraybeard]

Sold my 65 Ranchero paid some bills and bought a junkyard 63 Econoline pickup it has a stock 140 or 170 cuin engine (I haven't look it up yet) it drove 3 years ago (maybe) problem is no spark I have a new stock coil, points cap, rotor and condenser and new battery. No generator, soon to be replaced with a alternator. Right now I put 12.76 v0lts to plus side of coil there is a small voltage drop on the minus side and the points are getting 12 plus volts but no spark at the plugs, points are gapped and are working. The only thing I can think of is the new condenser isn't working can you think of anything else it could be.

Also I have some questions about the Carb, there is a connection I don't remember on my Ranchero (200) six I think it is a breather, on the top drivers side of engine a hose goes to passengers side of the carburetor (not the water connection under the carb) the engine side is missing the flange on the hose to bolt it to the engine. can I just plug the carb end of the hose.
Also there is no hose hooking up the water connection, I always heard the colder the fuel was the denser it is and more horsepower (cold boxes on old drag cars) so I was going to leave it off.
Carb appears to be on last legs so if anyone has a good one getting ready to go to scrapper and is in driving distance of Tacoma/Eatonville . . . .

But right now I have to get the spark problem figured out.:doh:

[doghows]

Check that condenser, that was the problem with mine. Sometimes them new parts don't work.
The water hose that runs to the carb plate is not critical, I think it was there to help with engine warm up?
The other hose sounds like the PCV hook up, you need that to keep you crank case pressure down. I ran with out one and it blew oil out the dip stick tube.
Love the truck I just picked up a 62 Van that I have been working on and just went through the same stuff on it. Keep us posted... Here is a pic of the engine hope it helps with the hoses.

[olgraybeard]

Worked a couple hours this afternoon found out when previous owner put new battery clamps on he got them switched, i didn't notice because stock cables are both black and most of the electrical was working. I don't know if it damage the new condensor, but I replaced it. but still no spark. Just before I stopped I noticed a small ground wire on mounting screw of points I'll check tomorrow if it is broken. Points aren't sparking but there is power to them so maybe that's the problem.

[pbrown]

A stock engine with a generator will work fine with the battery leads reversed. Even the gauges and all the normal electrical will work fine. The radio will not operate on a positive ground.

You need to re-polarize the generator and reverse the battery leads.

The points should have a wire coming off them that exits the dizzy housing and goes to the negative side of the coil. I'm sure the condenser is fine.

[olgraybeard]

The wire coming from negative side of coil to points/condenser was just hanging on by a couple of strands so I was getting a reading but not much current was getting through. After I fixed that the engine fired right up and even idles good. Generator is long gone just running off battery till I get the Mazda alternator put on. [yay]

[doghows]

Congrats it is always cool when a plan comes together. I just got the new clutch in my van so I had a good weekend as well.

[olgraybeard]

dowhows your hoses are simalar except I don't have a PCV hose/valve that hose on mine goe to the engine breather on the left side front of engine and I have one more hose that has me stumped on drivers side of carb. it plugs in at the front top of carb and you can see in the carb casting where the passage goes up to the top of the throat of the carb and ends at a slash cut tube at the throat of the carb. can't firgure what it is or what is supposed to plug into it. If you don't follow what I'm saying I'll post a picture tomorrow.

Anyone have a wiring diagram of the ignition switch (the color codes)

[doghows]

I think the hose you are describing might be a overflow for the carb? I have seen some of these early carbs start to push fuel through that slash cut piece and flood out the engine. But again a picture is definitely worth a thousand words. (I think I heard that before??)
Anyway I will look for that pic and see if we are thinking of the same hose. I think my Van is going to be my daily driver starting tomorrow. Will see what else falls off. Good Luck...[thumb]

[olgraybeard]

Here is a couple of pics
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/carb1_zpsb37e6ac3.jpg
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/carb2_zps5a93edba.jpg

[Luva65wagon]

Looks like it may have been a smog motor from the later 60's. The log (intake log) shows C8 if I read right. It may have come up from California and they had a lot of smog things I dealt with when I used to live there.

This hose goes directly to the bowl vent, where here (in WA) we vented directly to the atmosphere, but elsewhere may have wanted it to go to a charcoal canister or similar.

You probably should leave it un-corked, because without the venting system used on the other carbs, if you corked this you would create a suction in the bowl and probably starve for fuel under heavy load. Typical venting closed this port at idle and opened it at off-idle.

[Luva65wagon]

Did a little more searching on this and it appears this should be plugged if not going to a canister or something (verdict still out what it actually did go to). It will still vent through the snorkel and carbs missing the venting rod and mechanism were plugged at the top of the carb. I recall now on my Autolite 1100 rebuild thread that this was plugged.

Bottom-line is that if you had a float failure, gas could just pour from this line all over the exhaust manifold. Not a good thing. :NERVOUS:

[olgraybeard]

I got the new to me gas tank installed today. Also new exhaust/ muffler. Found out I have a cracked Exhaust manifold and according to warrenty plate this is a 144 engine, but I have to verify that. Doesn't the 144 only have 3 freeze plugs. Anyone have a extra Exhaust manifold kicking around? I noticed the pitman arm is only 1/2 on the steering box shaft and no pinch bolt, I'm hoping the steering box shaft is threaded to drive the arm on.

[modified17]

Does your manifold have a area for a donut seal or is it for a flat gasket where the exhaust pipe bolts up. I have one for a 63 that uses the donut style. Let me know if you can use it. Dave

[olgraybeard]

I'll take another look at it this morning when it warms up a bit, but I'm pretty sure its a donut seal, I was able to clock the exhaust pipe a little when I was fitting up my exhaust. Where are you located.

[modified17]

I'm out by Monroe. Give me a call. Maybe we can meet somewhere in the middle. 425-481-1502 Dave

[olgraybeard]

Looks like I have a flat flange, But I can cut it off and put a donut type on I'll give you a call
http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/exhaustflange_zpsd4acdd50.jpg

[olgraybeard]

I got my Mazda alternator mount made and mounted, I'll wire it and rewire the ignition circuit tomorrow I'm using a ballast resistor instead of stock resistor wire (cheaper and easier to find any problems).

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/1010121753-1.jpghttp://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/1010121738.jpg

[olgraybeard]

Here is how I'm going to wire my van to get rid of the shorted out and expensive resistor wire and add a ballast resistor 1.7 ohms from Schucks and add the Mazda alternator. I'll let you know if I get smoke!!

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb281/mail1948/1963%20Ford%20Econline%20Pickup%202012/igndiagramMODIFIEDFORVAN_zps414d688b.jpg

[olgraybeard]

The above diagram works, the Chevy 100 amp alternator I used on my Ranchero was also wired up the same way. The Mazda alternator is a 65 amp. I'm not running a amplifier on my stereo in the van so that is more than enough.

[doghows]

Is it running yet???

[olgraybeard]

It's running and charging, stomped on the brakes when putting it up on ramps and blew a brake line, all lines steel and rubber have to be replaced master cylinder works good and shoes are good. No second gear in tranny looking for a good CHEAP one.I think I have a vacuum leak engine runs good with choke pulled out. Engine doesn't smoke, I don't know about oil pressure no gauge yet, water temp is good. Got a new to me radiator from another member mine leaked badly. All and all happy camper. Now if I can score a short shaft 3 speed manual tranny.:BEER:

[doghows]

I don't have one of those, but maybe Brian (BPVan) will check in, he might know where to get one or maybe even have one?? He pulled a bunch of parts off of a Van a few weeks ago at a local pick and pull, might even be a thread on here from that. Maybe it is still there, the tranny that is?
I will keep my eyes open, I want to switch mine to an auto so if I find that I will have my transmission available..
Keep at it I like the econo pick ups...

[BPVan]

You guys are as plugged in online as I am but I will keep an eye out for one. The one tranny I found was pretty bad so I left it. Could also be the time to change out to something else?

[olgraybeard]

Found vacuum leak,gasket under carb was broken. It now idles good. Broke 3 bolts getting cracked exhaust manifold off. Fixing them is next on list. Another site suggested I check the shifter linkage before pulling trans so I'll do that. Previous owner replaced steering column and steering box so maybe linkage is out of adjustment.

[olgraybeard]

Made some good progress, I adjusted the linkage the 2-3 shift rod was out 1/2" and the bushing with Zerk fitting had no lube but it was clean so I filled it with grease. I think those were my problems, it shifts alot easier and seems like the 2-3 arm goes more forward also it goes between gates easier. I won't know for sure until I can drive it but it is going into every gear with engine off. On the broken bolts on the exhaust manifold I had to drill and tap one of them. The easyout wouldn't move it. The next one I welded a nut to the stub that was sticking out and while it was still hot I was able to back it out. I'll weld a nut on the last one also but it started rain again so I had to stop. I'll will be a happy camper if the shift linkage solves my tranny problems. :banana:

[olgraybeard]

Well 5 hours later I finally got the last broken bolt out and the original threads chased and found out I left the exhaust manifold in my wife van, so I guess this is a good place to stop (it started to rain again). I have to work tomorrow so hopefully I'll hit it Saturday.

[doghows]

Keep at it, I am trying to run mine out of gas so I can fix the sender unit. The never ending battles...