Heater Core Replacement

[MacDee]

I will be replacing my heater core shortly, but I have a question:
Is there any reason I shouldn't put some short lengths of heater hose off of the heater core, just enough to go through the firewall a little bit, and then connect with unions on the forward side of the firewall to the remainder of the heater hose runs. It would make installing the heater easier, and would allow it to be an easier repair if heater hoses ever need to be replaced.
It seems like an obvious thing to do, but I've never heard of anyone doing it.
:confused:

[falcon cobra]

Thats what I did and just for that reason, and hooked them together with 1/2 in. copper pipe, works fine...jh

[pbrown]

You can use long pieces of 5/8 hose to reach there final destination. Hook them to the heater first and then thread the heater box with hosed through from the inside. Cut the hoses to fit where they need to go. Just unhook them to work on the heater box. You'll probably have one go to the intake plenum heater and the other to the engine block.

[Luva65wagon]

The reason they put the hose hanger strap on the shock tower brace was to tether all the excess hose you were suppose to have to need to unbolt and pull the heater box away from the firewall enough to get to those clamps. Of course, you always ran the risk of spillage of antifreeze inside the cabin. Twas a funky affair.

You could use short nubbins of hose and some straight pipe just long enough to protrude past the firewall. Keep in mind that the more junctions the greater source of leaks. Get new hose and new clamps and a tube that won't corrode. Copper plumbing like John said would probably be just fine.

V8 cars were worse since the holes in the firewall were 'right where' the valve cover was. And worse yet with the new aluminium valve covers.

[redfalken]

I ran a single piece of hose just because I think it looks nicer and as Roger said, less chance of a leak (although a small chance).

And it wasn't really that much more difficult to install or take off. I keep an assortment of plugs around to jam in the hose when I need to drop the heater box. And that's not too often.

So either way is good IMHO. Whatever floats your boat! :D

[SmithKid]

I also used one-piece hoses because I like the look better. I'm probably removing the heater box soon and feel i can "blow out" 99% of the coolant before tilting the box out. I can also plug the hoses before removal. Not worth the "ug" look (my opinion) and the cost of additional 4 hose clamps to attempt to keep the spill down. The shorter hoses would still need to go out through the cab anyway, so....... I guess this is keeping my boat afloat.

[Luva65wagon]

What's all this talk of boats? Is Gene anxious for putting a pole in the water?

[pbrown]

That's not a boat.

This is a boat.
http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/07_02/topgear1KNP2006_468x330.jpg

[SmithKid]

I AM getting anxious! But you ain't doin' that to either of my trucks!:eek:

[MacDee]

That's not a boat.

This is a boat.
http://img.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2007/07_02/topgear1KNP2006_468x330.jpg

We're watching all the old Top Gear episodes on Netflix streaming. We just saw the episode in which Jeremy Clarkson actually made it across the English Channel in that thing!

Getting back to the topic...
I just finished rebuilding my heater box (new core, new motor, new seal kit) and installed it this afternoon.
Wow! I'll have heat!
I have one hose from the core directly to the aft intake manifold fitting. That was plenty short enough. On the other hose, I inserted a Prestone cap thingy in the line that runs from the water pump to the heater core. From the cap thingy to the heater core is plenty short enough.
Of course I discovered the cable housings on the temp and defroster cables have separated from the body of the knobs. I can engage the defroster, but can't disengage it; I can increase the heat, but I can't decrease it... unless I reach under the dash!

[Jeff W]

Of course I discovered the cable housings on the temp and defroster cables have separated from the body of the knobs. I can engage the defroster, but can't disengage it; I can increase the heat, but I can't decrease it... unless I reach under the dash!

Mine separated there there as well. I took it out and wrapped wire around the pot metal base and ran a few strands of it down the cable sheath, smeared some epoxy over it then covered the whole mess with heat shrink tubing. I'm sure there are better ways including a replacement cable as a swap meet.

[redfalken]

That happened on a couple of mine as well. There's probably some kind of swaging tool out there that would pinch it back into shape!

Jeff, does the one we used to hang that sign have a small enough size?

[Jeff W]

That happened on a couple of mine as well. There's probably some kind of swaging tool out there that would pinch it back into shape!

Jeff, does the one we used to hang that sign have a small enough size?

We can bring it to golden gardens and give it a shot.

[Luva65wagon]

I have a box of cables from all the cars I pillaged from. Not having seen this issue before I'm not sure from what I'm reading what happened, but I may have something too. I can bring all my bits to the meet too. The only cable I had issues with is the switch/cable, which I cobbled together with JB-Weld, etc. Working for now - but I have no spare of that.

[MacDee]

I have a box of cables from all the cars I pillaged from. ... I can bring all my bits to the meet too. The only cable I had issues with is the switch/cable, ...
The switch/cable, which I believe is the one I called the temperature cable, is available from Falcon Enterprises. If I can find a defroster cable, or figure out how to fix mine, I'm THERE!

[Luva65wagon]

Well - I'll bring what I have - you bring your defecto cable... and we'll figure something out. Will that do'ya?

[ew1usnr]

Hello,

I need to replace my heater core. I already have a new plastic plenum and will order a new 2 1/2" heater core and a heater seal kit from Falcon Parts.

4492

Do need anything else? Would I need, or would it be nice to have, these cowl seal retaining clips or heater housing clips?
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Mac's sells this heater to cowl seal for ... $49.95. Yikes. Is that generally necessary?
4490

Macs also sells this "water outlet cap" for $2.95. What is that for?
4491

Thanks, Dennis.

[dhbfaster]

Glad you're about a week ahead of me Dennis...I'm interested in how all your parts work out. Especially in how that heater core works out when you get it.

fyi, Kenny has a post about (what I think is a better solution for) the heater to cowl seal (~$10 or so in parts from Lowes...and I think a longer lasting solution too.) the "seal" in mine was nothing but a wire-the rest was totally disintegrated ... Darned if I can find that post now though...hopefully he'll jump in. I don't think I'd buy that part until after you read his post.

[redfalken]

That was in a TFFN thread:

http://www.tffn.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=6674&hilit=+heater

Yea, I wouldn't go nuts and buy a stock seal unless you've got the money and want everything stock. It is more convenient to install than what I did but I doubt you would even have to mess with it again over the next 5-10 years.

There's not much back pressure in that system so it doesn't have to be anything fancy. Even some closed cell foam cut to size and large zip ties would work. You will get a crick in your neck trying to see it once installed!

[Luva65wagon]

I can never remember my TFFN login and dread going there most times anyway (for this very reason; namely, that you must be signed in to see anything), but before I digress further I'm trying to figure out what seal we're talking about. Are you talking the fresh-air intake part? The rubber one that disintegrates in a year - even when bought brand new? If so, then yeah - do something different. I like the Mustang sleeve as well. It fits over the heater-box flange and just presses against the cowl. Essentially a piece of 1" thick foam rubber made into a sleeve and tall enough to get compressed when sandwiched between the box and cowl.

4503

I do have a few spare 'used' parts for these heater boxes, so if anything is totally rusted away, or something, I may have a less rusted part.

[ew1usnr]

Are you talking the fresh-air intake part? The rubber one that disintegrates in a year - even when bought brand new? If so, then yeah - do something different. I like the Mustang sleeve as well. It fits over the heater-box flange and just presses against the cowl. Essentially a piece of 1" thick foam rubber made into a sleeve and tall enough to get compressed when sandwiched between the box and cowl.

Hello, Roger.

Is this the same foam rubber sleeve that you are describing?
4527

The correct Falcon part costs $40, but these Mustang pieces are only $3.56 at Summit racing.
See: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5zz18a569a?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA592lBRCXy8yl4bjK17wBEiQAg1Az_dqBHOTs qLOgKg2-3XunhVXGLigm94FrNwIbvNPIRtkaAqC08P8HAQ

I will not be able to remove and disassemble my heater box for a few more weeks. Once I get it apart I will be able to see what parts are needed.

Thanks, Dennis.

[dhbfaster]

Dennis, Did you get your new heater core yet? Wondering how it looks.

[ew1usnr]

Hello, Don.

I have delayed working on the heater due to needing to study for an exam that is scheduled for this coming Friday. Maybe I will be able to take it apart this coming weekend. I want to see the dimensions of the existing heater core before I order the replacement.

Falcon Parts.com listed a "One 1960 – 1964 Heater Core – 2 ½” thick, C0DZ-18576-A." and said "This is the correct heater core for all models of the 1960 - 1964 Ford Falcon & Mercury Comet. If you have one of these models with a two inch core, it is incorrect." Mustangs evidently used a two-inch thick core and a spacer. A two-inch core might flop around in the heater box without a spacer. Some of the heater cores also vary somewhat in length. Falcon Parts, unfortunately, said that they are out of stock and cannot say when they will have more. This is the picture that Falcon Parts shows:

4536

It looks like this used original 1964 Falcon heater that was listed on e-bay:
4537

This is one listed for a 1963 Ford Falcon with a V-8 from Radiator Express. It is 2 1/2" thick, but the hose attachments are different:
Inlet: 5/8
Outlet: 5/8
Core Size: 7 3/4 x 6 x 2 1/2
Construction: Copper Brass
See: https://www.radiatorexpress.com/product.asp?part_id=220672&aaia_id=1334786&gclid=CjwKEAiAxZKmBRD_5cCvs8SbxXsSJADZBCmdTgF7q6Ws dZHxD-C1fkpUVT8ix0od1UYDnswhWutL2RoCUy_w_wcB
4539

This one from Dearborn Classsics looks correct, but they do not provide dimensions. Notice that the bottom looks different than the bottom of the one sold by Falcon Parts. I don't know if that makes a difference. See: http://www.dearbornclassics.com/1963-ford-heater-core-with-or-with-out-a-c-falcon-fairlane-and-comet.html
4538

I just saw this one at Summit Racing for $55.91. It is listed for a 1964 Falcon, but the dimensions look correct:
Heater Core Inlet Size:0.625 in. (5/8")
Heater Core Outlet Size:0.625 in. (5/8")
Heater Core Length (in):8.000 in.
Heater Core Width (in):6.000 in.
Heater Core Thickness (in):2.500 in.
See: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pli-399007/applications/?page=2
4540

Advance Auto Parts has the same part for $10 less. See: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-or-ready-aire-heater-core-399007/5892864-P#fragment-2

Advance Auto lists this one as an exact fit for a 1963 Falcon, but it is two-inches thick. That is why I need to take my existing one out and measure it first.
Core Height: 6 in
Core Material: Copper Brass
Core Thickness: 2 in
Core Width: 8 in
Inlet Size(s): 5/8 in
Outlet Size(s): 5/8 in
Tank Material: Brass
See: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/toughone-or-ready-aire-heater-core-398304/20820074-P?navigationPath=L1*14922%7CL2*15021%7CL3*15934#fr agment-2

[Luva65wagon]

Dennis - missed the Q about the foam thing. Yes, that what Mustang users use and it sandwiches itself between the heater and fresh air opening. I've never used one in a Falcon, but can't imagine why they wouldn't work - unless the spacing it less on a mustang.

You can make a 2" core work, but you have to make "things" to wedge it in. I've seen cardboard and foam rubber, either of which are fine until they get wet - which shouldn't happen if all is good.

Both of these are doable, but both require a little McGuivering. But once done you've maybe saved money and nobody will be the wiser.

[dhbfaster]

Dennis, There are also a couple on Rockauto.com at great prices...when you finally get yours out, maybe you can compare the dimensions.
https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1336036,parttype,6864

SPECTRA PREMIUM / COOLING DEPOT Part # 94575 More Info {#C5DZ18476A, D3TZ18476A} Core Dimensions: 7 1/8 x 5 7/8 x 2; Inlet Pipe Diam: 5/8; Outlet Pipe Diam: 5/8; Material: Aluminum
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/o AC
$17.52

PRO Part # 9010432 More Info
Flag indicates this part fits vehicles sold in the US Market. It does not indicate where the part was made -- manufacturers produce parts in multiple factories worldwide. w/ 8" Core
$39.79

I was thinking about this "Pro" part...good price (compared a lot of the others-and I have a rock auto gift certificate from xmas...:p), but a good write up about the durability features...like you though, I haven't had the time to get going yet. My main excursion tomorrow...going to the screw store...(Tacoma Screw) with a bin full of bolts and screws in bags, then this week...paint the engine....next may be the heater...hoping to learn from you!

[ew1usnr]

I followed the directions for heater core removal that were shown here: http://www.joesfalcon.com/

I removed the heater box this morning and was surprised at how easy it was. I unplugged two wires and a ground from the blower motor, unhooked three control cables inside the car, removed the glove box liner. I removed four hollow, rubber-filled nuts from the blower motor and then pulled the heater box out of the car. That was it. The four nuts around the blower motor were all that held the thing in place. The nuts were sort of odd, though (see following):
4562

I don't know what these nuts are called, but they are made of thin metal and have rubber washers built into them. The nuts cracked when they were unscrewed. If I can't find a replacement the I will just replace them with a conventional nut, lock washer, and flat washer.

I removed the glove box liner and took this picture of the cowl vent duct. I was surprised to see that it was pretty much intact. I will put some black caulk over the small tear.
4563

Here is the box pulled from the fire wall:
4564

Here it is removed from the car. Notice the original tower clamps where the hoses attach to the heater core.
4565

Notice the carpet seals that a previous owner installed. They are glued to both sides of the metal flap valves. They seem to work and are too much trouble to remove so I will leave them alone.
4566

I will continue this post with a "Part 2" so that I can include some more photos.

[dhbfaster]

Nice writ up Dennis, looking forward to part 2!

[ew1usnr]

Disassembling my heater box part 2.

Someone had worked on the heater previously, though, because the box was missing one clip from the top, two clips were missing from the right side (with one attachment point broken), and two clips were missing from the bottom (with two attachment points broken). Here is a photo of the bottom showing the two missing clips:
4567

I opened the box and found a two-inch deep heater core backed up with a rectangular ½-inch spacer. This is the back side portion of the heater box and the spacer is on the right.
4572

It was odd because the spacer was sitting on top of a rubber gasket. I think that the gasket was original and it pressed against a 2 1/2" core. A previous owner later installed the 1/2" spacer and used a 2" thick core.
4570

The spacer has a rolled up inner edge that was in direct contact with heater core:
4571

The spacer had a rolled up perimeter edge and the heater core had four leak spots along its base where it contacted the edge of the spacer. The leaks can be seen as white spots along the the left and right edges of the core (4 small ones on the left and one big one on the right). The rolled up edges of the spacer can be seen in the lower right hand corner of the photo.
4568

The spacer appears to be the cause of the leaks, so I ordered a 6” x 8” x 2 ½” thick, 5/8” outlets that I can install without the spacer. The thicker core will just be held in place with weather stripping in both sides. The replacement core was a “ToughOne or Ready-Aire” Part No. 399007 replacement core from Advance Auto for $41.79 - $6.27 discount + $3.53 tax + $10.99 postage = $53.91. I also ordered three heater box clips Mfr. #: C0DF-19A779-A from Summit Racing for $2.25 each plus $4.95 postage. I am happy with how easy it is to find replacement parts for this 52 year old car.

I cleaned the heater box inside and out with 409 spray cleaner and then wiped it with a wet sponge. I need to paint the inside metal parts with rust neutralizer and primer, replace the old dried gaskets that hold the core in place with weather stripping, and replace the hollow blower motor nuts and old heater hoses.

[SmithKid]

While on the subject of heater core replacement, it might be a good time for a reminder to check for electrolysis in our cars as this hasn't been brought up for a while. Especially if we have any aluminum components in our cooling systems (I do). Here is a typical link for the test procedure and some cures:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/cooling_system_electrolysis_corrosion.htm

[Luva65wagon]

Dennis, Great write-up on the heater. The kit you buy with gaskets will supply all the correct foam sheets, so you may yet consider removing the shag carpet.

Those nuts are called speed nuts - though if you Google speed nuts you see J-nuts and all kinds of other nuts. A good hardware store should carry them and you can pack then with strip caulk to imitate the rubber seal. Or use 1/4-20 nuts. I'd probably use NyLocks and washers, wrapping a bit of strip caulk around the stud before tightening it to seal it.

[ew1usnr]

The kit you buy with gaskets will supply all the correct foam sheets, so you may yet consider removing the shag carpet.

Those nuts are called speed nuts - though if you Google speed nuts you see J-nuts and all kinds of other nuts. A good hardware store should carry them and you can pack then with strip caulk to imitate the rubber seal. Or use 1/4-20 nuts. I'd probably use NyLocks and washers, wrapping a bit of strip caulk around the stud before tightening it to seal it.

Hello, Roger.

I decided that I liked the carpet and will leave it in place. It is part of the history of the car. It works, and a previous owner spent a lot of time cutting it to fit and gluing it in place. He was probably proud of himself for what he had done. I vacuumed the carpet with a vacuum cleaner attachment to get the dust out of the carpet. :)

On Monday I bought eight feet of Part No. 1726 Thermoid 5/8” Heater Hose dated 09/30/14 for $11.12 at Advance Auto Parts See: http://www.hbdthermoid.com/images/automotive/black_heater.pdf “A replacement for hose on most cars and light trucks. This standard grade hose is similar to SAE20R3 for normal duty service. Withstands the abuse of corrosive solutions and additives. Resists weathering to provide a long, trouble-free service life. Application: Heater, Style: Black, Grade: Black Standard, Specification: TH-STD-HH, Branding: Thermoid (Size) Heater Hose, Made In USA, Cover Color: Black, Tube: EPDM, Reinforcement: Two Spiral Polyester, Cover: EPDM, Temperature Resistance: -40°F to +212°F (Not for Steam Use).”

I also bought four general purpose #12 Autocraft Made in China ½” – 1 ¼” hose clamps for 2 x $2.49. “These versatile corrosion resistant clamps are comprised of high quality stainless steel and are designed to install easily.”
Question: The heater had its two original tower clamps in place when I took it apart.
4587

Would you guys replace them with the new stainless steel hose clamps, or put the original tower clamps back in? They did not seem to be leaking, and they have been there for 52 years so it is a shame to remove them because they are part of the history of the car. But, ... it will pain in the backside if I have to go back in and replace them if they leak.

Yesterday, I carried the forward half of the heater box into Lowes to find nuts to fit the mounting studs. A ¼” - 20 nut seemed to fit, but the threads on all four of the studs are damaged and will not accept a conventional nut. The self-cutting speed nuts may have been installed because of the damaged stud threads, or the stud threads may have been damaged by the installation of the self-cutting speed nuts. These emblem nuts look like what was screwed onto to the blower motor mounting studs:
4588


I was not sure what replacement nuts I would need so I bought a pack of four new ¼” speed nuts, four ¼” rubber washers, four flat washers, four nuts, four nylon lock nuts, and two small disposable paint brushes for when I paint the blower motor and vent door with semi-gloss black paint.

This afternoon, I bought a 40 piece carbon steel SAE tap and die set, Item #61410, at Harbor Freight Tools for the sale price of $15.99 (down from $34.99) + $1.12 tax = $17.11 and re-cut the stud threads. The studs cleaned up nicely and the nuts thread on easily now.

4582


I used ½" thick x ¾" wide self-adhesive door & window PVC foam weather stripping ($3 from Lowes) to replace the original old and hard rubber gasket. PVC is a thermoplastic with a relatively low melting point, about 212°, but I doubt that my heater core would ever get that hot. I have a 180 degree thermostat and my radiator temperature runs about 160 - 180 degrees.

4585

I glued the weather stripping in place with rubber and felt adhesive and rubbed its outer surface with silicone grease so that it will not stick to the heater core.
4583

4584

I received the replacement heater box clips from Summit Racing today. I can put this all back together this weekend if I receive the new heater core from Advance Auto before Saturday.

[Luva65wagon]

Dennis - I like tower clamps from a tightening perspective, but not as much from a loosening perspective. But have them on my car. Just last week suggested using them to Gene's son when we were putting his heater hoses on.

You can get them new if you want to maintain some originality. But in this case I think if they're good, there's no reason not to reuse them. Though they are not the prettiest, I can't see from the pic any reason to think they won't survive another x-number of years.

The rest looks real good.

[AGREE]

[dhbfaster]

All this heater talk made me hot :ROTFLMAO: to go ahead and finally open mine up. What did I find?? More leaves and pine needles! Otherwise...not too bad. I think I'll clean up and paint the metal parts so they hopefully last another 50. The heater core looked pretty good on the outside and has the ford logo on it. On the inside it had some pretty big chunks of crud looking in the tubes and it seemed really heavy (loaded with junk?) so I decided to replace it. It's 2.5 inches thick. However when I go to the websites out there they seem to indicate that 2" thick is the perfect fit, and, Dennis it says that your 2.5 version will not fit my 61...so I never would have found the 2.5" version unless you posted the part number for me! So, ordered it...hopefully I'm not missing something! Fortunately...we don't have those stores here so...no tax, and 15% discount.

[ew1usnr]

The heater core was delivered today, but one of the hose nipples had been soldered in place at an angle that prevents it from passing through its hole in the heater box. :confused:

4591

4592

I called Advance Auto. They said to take the part to an Advance Auto store for a refund. Then they took my credit card number and ordered another of the part number 399007 heater cores for me. They said that there would not be a charge for shipping for the re-order and gave me an additional discount that made the total $39.37.

Oh, well. Stuff happens.

[Luva65wagon]

If it were me I'd straighten it. I'm probably 99.9% sure it was when soldered. The brass tank it's soldered to is pretty flexible. It would move that little bit. And probably has flexed to put it where it's are now.

But if you're nervous to do it - replace it.

[ew1usnr]

I turned in the defective heater core at an Advance Auto store and they refunded the purchase price to my credit card. The re-ordered heater core was delivered yesterday. The outlet tubes were straight on this one and it fit ito the heater box with no problem:
4614

But, the weather stripping that I added inside the box was maybe 1/4" too thick and it prevented the two halves of the box from coming together. So I borrowed some big paper clamps from the office where I work and clamped them around the perimeter of the box:
4615

Here is a close-up. I cleaned the fiberglass of the box and like the way it looks. It has sort of a grain to it. If this were a new car the box would be made of plastic, ... and probably have "Made in China" stamped on it.
4616

The clamps worked and they squished the weather strips and brought the box halves together. The weather strips inside will increase the efficiency of the heater by only letting air flow through the heater core and not let any air flow around it. I should be able to get the heater box re-installed this weekend.

I never had a clear idea of how the vent, heater, and temperature controls worked until I took this thing apart and looked at it. The pull knobs and control cables are rudimentary, but they work just fine. When I push the heater buttons on my 2009 Honda CRV, I can hear little servo motors doing the same things as the pull knobs do on my Falcon. The controls on the Honda function fine, but if they ever quit working I suspect that they will be a lot more difficult to correct that was the case with this fifty year old Ford.

[redfalken]

Looks great Dennis. When I rebuilt mine I was amazed at how much better it worked. As you said, if you can get all of the air to flow through the core instead of the dozens of leaky spots, it really does a good job. I put in a new foam seal set, heater core, and plenum. This project gets you pretty good bang for your buck!

And I've had to use it a few times to cool the engine going over a mountain pass in Northern Cali. Nothing like driving in 105 degree heat with your windows down and the heater going full blast!!

[ew1usnr]

And I've had to use it a few times to cool the engine going over a mountain pass in Northern Cali. Nothing like driving in 105 degree heat with your windows down and the heater going full blast!!

Hello, Kenny.

You can tell your passengers that you turned on the afterburners.
4619

That made me wonder how much the heater core core would add if used as a supplemental radiator.

The finned volume of my radiator measures 17" x 18" x 3" = 918 cubic inches.
The heater core measures 6” x 8” x 2 ½” = 120 cubic inches.
And 120/918 = 13%, which is significant.

Last night I removed the paper clamps to see how the weather stripping had compressed. I didn't paint the metal in the box because it still retained small patches of shiny galvanized metal that I wanted to save.
4617

I reattached the clips that hold the box halves together. One of the original clips went flying during the process and became lost and I used all three of the new replacement clips that I bought from Summit Racing (I'm glad that I bought one extra). I now have three clips on top, two on each side, and two on the bottom. The bottom is supposed to have four clips, but the fiberglass was broken by a previous owner at two of the attachment points. I reattached the hoses with the original tower clamps. I will re-check the tightness before installing it in case the rubber hose compresses.
4618

And it turns out that the speed nuts that I took off are evidently the original nuts:
4620

Falcon Parts sells these heater parts nuts as "1960 - 1970 Heater Mounting Nuts, $3.50".
4621

Nylock nuts would be better, but I will leave the original speed nuts in place since they have obviously worked fine for the past fifty years.

As a point of trivia, the heater box with the hoses attached weighs 15.4 pounds.

[ew1usnr]

Yesterday, I attached the new plastic plenum to the heater core, drained the radiator, glued three pieces of duct tape to the lower inside edge of the rubber vent duct to repair three tears. I have heard that these cars are prone to rusting under the cowl when the drains get plugged with leaves. While the heater box was out, I examined the underside of the cowl around the vent inlet. The metal is unpainted and has a patina of surface rust, but it was smooth and without rust holes and showed no evidence of water leakage. I knocked on it and it seemed solid. I reached my hand up through the cowl vent and felt around on top of the cowl under the fender for leaves and did not feel anything. I seem to be lucky and have a solid cowl.
4622

I inserted the heater box through the firewall and a bigger than hand-sized piece of black fire wall insulation outer cover fell off. I used emery paper and sanded the corrosion off the manifold water inlet elbow to make it smooth. Then it became dark and I called it a day.

This afternoon, I attached the antenna lead, heater, temperature, and defroster control wires, plugged on the lower ends of the defroster ducts and reattached the upper ends after they had pulled loose, reattached the piece of firewall liner with folded over duct tape, and reattached the glove box liner. I attached the top hose from the heater core to the water pump and the lower hose to the manifold water inlet elbow and tightened both hose ends down with new stainless steel hose clamps. I sealed where the heater hoses pass through the firewall by squirting some black silicone caulk on top of the hoses and smoothing it with my finger to the underside of the hoses. I started the car and let it warm to operating temperature and added more coolant when it started to circulate in the radiator. Then I screwed on the radiator cap and let the system pressurize. None of the hose fittings appeared to be leaking, so I appear to be good to go. I now have a new heater core, new internal seals, new hoses, and a new plenum. Yay!

I will leave the newspaper in place for for a little longer until I am I sure that the hose fittings do not leak.
4623

I will drive my Falcon to work tomorrow morning and see if everything holds together. Tomorrow will be beautiful with a 65 degree morning temperature and a high of 77. Wednesday through Friday will be colder, though, with 40 degrees in the morning and highs in the upper 50's. Yay! That will allow me to try out my new heater. :)

[SmithKid]

Good job, Dennis. I always like to see your progress reports. They're always interesting. Keep it up.

[Luva65wagon]

Dennis, Here's a picture you asked for of the hose straps on my wagon. Hope they help.

[ew1usnr]

Good job, Dennis. I always like to see your progress reports. They're always interesting. Keep it up.

Thanks, Gene. I try to take pictures and then write notes right after I finish doing something. They are a big help if I have to re-visit the problem later.

"Dennis, Here's a picture you asked for of the hose straps on my wagon. Hope they help."

Thanks, Roger. That is an extremely clean engine. What is the thing on the left fender that is forward of the windshield washer bag and behind the voltage regulator? I tried to use the strap but it evidently works better with a six than an eight. To use it I would have had to lift the hoses above the automatic choke tube and then one the hoses would have had to make an S-shaped bend around the generator bracket and oil filler tube to reach the water pump. The geometry worked better without the strap when I just ran the hoses straight from the fire wall.

When I backed the car out of the garage on Monday morning, there was not any leaked coolant on the newspapers that were spread under the car. I drove it to work and did not see any leakage on the newspapers under the heater. I drove the car about 60 miles and saw no leaks.

I didn't drive the car on Tuesday or Wednesday because of rain, but I am driving it today and tomorrow. It is 44 degrees this morning, but it will be 32 degrees tomorrow morning. Wow! That is as cold as it ever gets here. That will be a good test of the new heater.

As a point of trivia, I saw this aftermarket item on e-bay:
4627

It is interesting that cars used to have heaters but not defrosters.

[dhbfaster]

Roger I love that pic of your engine compartment. I think it could become my new screensaver for a while.
Love that defroster Dennis.
My heater is all apart and I hope to have it put back together next week.

[ew1usnr]

... it will be 32 degrees tomorrow morning. Wow! That is as cold as it ever gets here. That will be a good test of the new heater.

It was 33 degrees when I drove to work this past Friday morning. The cast iron block took a while to warm up and the car was sluggish for the first two miles. After that, the heater blew warm air and it kept the interior at a comfortable temperature. The engine temperature gauge did not rise above 1/4.

I initially ran the heater with the fan on high and turned the fan off when the car became warm. The car maintained a comfortable temperature with the heater on and without the fan.

I am running a 180-degree thermostat in my car and the car came new with a 190-degree thermostat. The air coming through the heater would be little warmer if the car had the correct thermostat. But, ... it was plenty good enough to off-set 32 degrees and that makes it more than sufficient for any cold weather that I will ever see in Florida. And if I ever do drive my Falcon through South Dakota, I will not do it during the winter time anyway.
4635

The temperature here re-bounded quickly after our short blast of "polar vortex" cold air. It was in the low 70's and sunny today. I took my shirt off while I was raking leaves.

[SmithKid]

Glad your heater is working satisfactorily, Dennis.
We have temps a bit different here. :rain: One day last week we (Seattle) broke the old record high temp by 3 degrees, getting all the way to 61 degrees!