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BPVan
January 9th, 2011, 11:08 PM
I am wondering if anyone has a good engine shop recommendation in Seattle. I recently purchased a 66/67 240 that had been sitting since the mid 80's to swap with the worn one currently in the van. The engine had a rebuild less than 5K before it was pulled and stored due to an accident. Long story short I was hoping to flush it out and swap out the exterior parts (Manfolds, pumps, distributor, carb, etc) and get going. I pulled the head today to discover it has a bit more buildup than I had hoped (pictures below are after I shop-vac'd the top of the pistons). Cylinder 2 is the worst as pictured. I am sure it had much to do with the position of the crank and valves when stored (Perhaps the intake valve was open for 25 years?). The crank and pistons look real clean, guy said 5k was on the rebuild I would guess less.

Anyway I would like to take the head in to have it cleaned and acid dipped and perhaps have them do the valves as well. I would also like to pull the main and pistons out and have the block cleaned and painted (While I'm this far, right?).

Recommendations?

BPVan
January 10th, 2011, 12:48 PM
Anyone have experience with these guys:

http://www.metaldipping.com/project.php

redfalken
January 10th, 2011, 03:48 PM
I've never heard of the place you had a link for but it looks interesting. I used a place called Hill Machine Headworks off Leary, between Ballard and Fremont. They did a great job but took a looooong time. I think that was mainly due to the fact that I told them to take their time because I was months out from needing it. Very happy with the end results though!

Do you plan on doing a little porting and polishing? You get a lot of bang for your buck there. Probably 3 or 4 hours will get you 90% of the optimum.

Also, if you can afford to have the shop turn down the bosses that the valve stems come up through, a nice upgrade is to install teflon seals. If you just want to use the older, rubber, umbrella style, let me know. I have a box full I will donate. They are for a 144/170/200 so you'll have to check if they fit a 240.

Also, I have a valve clamp I'm sure I won't be using for many years. Let me know if you ever need it and I'll send it home with Jeff (we work together).

I have some photos of the head I was working on in my blog. Just click on my user name above and go down to "View Blog".

modified17
January 10th, 2011, 10:51 PM
I know this is probally further than you'd like to go but I've been using A&I Auto Parts in Snohomish. Paul runs the machine shop. I've used him for 13 years and He built three race motors for me and never had one come apart and I turn my motors at 7200 Rpm on the track at Evergreen Speedway>.He's currently doing a 347 for me. If you're interested the number is 360-568-3181 and ask for Paul.

pbrown
January 11th, 2011, 06:39 AM
I have used Jim Green Performance for two engines. I've only had the machine work done and do all assembly myself. They do good work but are not cheap.

The work Kenny had done looked really good and I would consider them for future work.

Luva65wagon
January 11th, 2011, 08:42 PM
I've been dealing with Rob at Action Machine up at 175th and Aurora. He's been there for as long as I can remember and has always been up-front and helpful for the 10 some-odd engines I've built in the past 30 years. I plan to bring a 289 I have laying around here to them sometime early spring. I got it off Craigslist a couple years ago and it was supposedly all reworked -- but want to have them check it all out.

redfalken
January 11th, 2011, 09:29 PM
I've talked to the guys at Action Machine a few times and bought some bearings and freeze plugs there. Seemed really nice and helpful. A real working shop. I was thinking I may try them for my next project.

BPVan
January 14th, 2011, 03:34 PM
Thank you all for your input. I called Headworks in Ballard, but they are booked out at least a month so they sent me to Action. Just dropped the head off today and based on the lack of a surprised look I assume everything will look good when done. I am going to have them take care of the valves and seals as well.

I also located a rebuilt block (http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/2148612812.html) in Port Orchard that should put me in fast forward getting this Van rolling down the road.
(http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/pts/2148612812.html)

BPVan
January 26th, 2011, 09:08 PM
I picked my head up from Action today, I barely recognized it. It looks brand new, all items were stripped and replaced. They use a different valve seal technology as well, it looks pretty durable. I was so excited I already bolted it on. This is coming together smoothly and more importantly in time for my hoist and swap party on 2/5. [thumb]

EdsFunny
January 26th, 2011, 09:26 PM
What did these guys charge you for the job?

BPVan
January 26th, 2011, 09:41 PM
It was about 475 out the door. Included everything even a new set of rockers. They spared nothing from the original.

EdsFunny
January 26th, 2011, 09:49 PM
That seems like a pretty good deal. I'm looking at more than that in just parts for a 260 engine.

redfalken
January 26th, 2011, 11:13 PM
That looks really great! I'd say it was a good and fair price. Looking forward to seeing it up close.

It's nice to get an engine to the point where you know what's been done to it and know it was done right. It should be good for another 45 years at least!

Luva65wagon
January 27th, 2011, 09:42 AM
Pretty awesome - I think.

Looked like a lot of pitting on the underside in and near the combustion chamber. Was that a really rough surface? I'd be a little concerned this could be a place where carbon deposits might be allowed to form - ultimately causing predetonation. Anybody else have any thought about this possibility? I'm sure if it was still Rob who works there, he'd have said something if it were a problem. I'm a bit picky too. Shave too much off and you'd have problems too.

redfalken
January 27th, 2011, 11:08 AM
I smoothed out the combustion chambers with some sandpaper rolls that came with my port/polish kit when I recently did my cylinder head. Then used a piece of plexiglass with a hole in it to cover the chambers and squirt in a metered amount of tranny fluid to see the cc volume of each chamber. That way I could sand off more metal where needed to even out the chambers. Then I used the scotch-brite cross buffs to polish them to a shine.

Sounds like you already have the head on so it may not be worth taking off but if you notice pinging after awhile and your timing seems to be in range, this might be something to consider.

BPVan
February 4th, 2011, 06:38 AM
I talked to Rob at Action and he said the head was milled to tolerance. Since I am a little "green" in this area I am going to leave it be for now for fear of messing something up. Worst case if I need to pull the head it is not too bad to do with it in the van, the seats and doghouse come out pretty quickly. I also plan on having the block and head that are coming out cleaned and machined at some point.

Progress so far is that I finished the engine paint Wednesday night (thanks Kenny for letting me use your Propane Heater, that thing brought the garage to a balmy 70 degrees). I am finishing up the final assembly tonight (Fuel pump, water inlet, temp/oil sending units, Oil Filter adapter). I do need to finish the paint on the Oil pan tonight as well. Will be ready for the hoist party tomorrow.

Rocker cover is temporary, new one on the way. Oil pan is post intense grease removal.