Update pics

[BadBird]

Finally got the engine bay, door frames, door edges, lower surface of hood and trunk painted. Installed the engine and transmission along with the front suspension. Working on master cylinder and brake/fuel lines. Then will install hood, trunk and doors. Final painting coming soon I hope. Larry

[Jeff W]

Very impressive.

[pbrown]

I like it. Will it be on the road by Spring?

[BadBird]

I hope so, but knowing how slow I am????. It has taken me 3 months to get from the practice fender I painted to this point. I still have to paint the exterior, then color sand and buff it all out. Don't have a clue how long it will take to get all the electrical, interior, seals and all the glass put back in. Still have to get the exhaust put in and run the engine for the first time. Spring would be nice, but I guess I'll see???
It would sure be nice if everyone would like to volunteer a tech day when it comes to the start up of the engine. I don't have much experience at that. Crap, I don't have much experience at any of this. Oh well, long time before I get ready for that. No since thinking beyond painting for now. One thing I do feel good about. I am still making progess.:banana:

[SmithKid]

Looking great, Larry! I would sure like to be there for the start-up. Count me in!

[Jeff W]

I'm in too. I'll bring my ear plugs... I think we will need them. WOW!

[BadBird]

I will have the exhaust on by then but we can open the electric exhaust dumps. I already warned my neighbors that I want to make it loud some Saturday morning. They are good folks so I think the Mill (Yuppie) Creek patrol will leave me alone.

[BillP 98201]

Well Larry, if that is the quality you are getting by taking your time. Just enjoy what you are doing, and dont put to much pressure on yourself.
Looks great!!!!

[Luva65wagon]

Larry - Sorry for the late post... was out of town for a week.

This is looking VERY NICE. The detail is impeccable. Like all other members, you are welcome to request a tech day or days, so when you get closer to that, post a thread and make sure you contact Kenny, Patrick, or myself to send a notice out via an email as well.

[BadBird]

Well I finally got it shot with 3 coats of base and the first 3 coats of clear.

[Luva65wagon]

Oh boy -- now the fun part can start... color sanding. But it looks very nice all one color. Good thing the weather held out for you this weekend.

[redfalken]

Well I finally got it shot with 3 coats of base and the first 3 coats of clear.

First 3 coats! How many do you plan on?

I just did some wetsanding on my front fenders after a repair. It can be VERY time consuming but rewarding too. Here's a video series of a Meguiars class on wetsanding. This is part 1 of 5:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6f8EQNVxxbw

Some good information and tips.

[BadBird]

Going to sand this with 600 and apply two more coats. Then apply two more coats and sand with 1000, 2000 and if good stop there. If not I will go to 3000 grit then buff it all out.
Got a lot of good info from the painter at "Dreamers" on Evergreen Way about their process and bought the "Paintucation" series on body work, painting, and color sanding. Good videos.
Lots of work but that is what I did to the practice parts and they came out looking good. Larry

[BadBird]

Well, I got back from our trip to Tucson so it's back to work on the car. Thought I would attach a couple of pics of the polishing work. I have the trunk finished, the right rear quarter, hood is done but I am not satisfied so more work to go. I have a few repairs to perform on the left quarter and around the roof rails. Getting there but it is so slow and soooo cold. Pics are of the right quarter.

[pbrown]

That is looking very nice. Keep up the good work.

[thumb]

[Luva65wagon]

Well, that at least explains the bright yellow glow I see just over the hill... I hope you're wearing your sunglasses.

:)

[doghows]

WOW. beautiful work.I hope mine gets to that stage one day.

[BadBird]

Well, if anyone ever needs to go through a painting project and have "Lessons Learned" given to them, I am the dude to talk to. This painting project is the first car I ever painted and it is a learning process for sure.
I polished out the hood, the trunk, roof, doors and thought it looked good. It looked great even using a halogen light for reflection. I pushed the car out in the sun light and it showed small indentations that show up like light bulbs in the sun. I am sanding it again and will polish all over again. I originally block sanded the car and had the body the way I wanted. But when I final sanded the clearcoat prior to polishing I used a softer rubber block and it didn't hold the smoothness that I wanted. Thought it wouldn't matter since the body was smooth. Wrong. According to the "Auto-body 101" web site I should have used the harder block and I am not the first dufus to do this. Minor imperfections only are visible and my wife thinks I am nuts but I don't like it.
Sooooooooo resanding it all and polishing again. May have to reapply additional coats of clear if I have to sand very much. I will get there someday. If the temperatures stay in the 50's I can keep my garage at 65 with heaters to finish the job during the Christmas break. More to come I am sure and the next pics should look better than the last ones.

[BadBird]

I finally have the back half of my car polished. Couple of pics attached. Still need to do the doors, front fenders and hood. I am going to take a couple of days off from working on the body and install the Tri-Y headers. It will give me a chance to do something different for awhile and I won't have to lean over polished front fenders to do it. Larry

[redfalken]

That bird really sparkles! Good job on sticking to it through the gloomy months. You'll be glad it's done when you're cruising around this summer with the windows down and your sunglasses on!!

[SmithKid]

Wow! That car is so shiny. I don't think I want to try to follow it in the bright sunlight. Have to have VERY dark sunglasses! Beautiful, Larry!

[Luva65wagon]

Pretty cool Larry... I'll have to arrange to visit and see it in person soon. Just think, pretty soon the fun part begins of putting on all the new shiny stuff to match the other new shiny stuff! Fun...

[BadBird]

How about coming over when I get all done with the paint polishing and you can give me some tips on putting in things like the windows, windshield, back glass, trim, etc, etc. Or you might even want to put some of the shiny things on while you are here????? I am soooooo anxious to start putting things together it will be hard to wait. I started to put the tail lights in but then decided to wait awhile. Seems like such a long time ago that I built the rotisserie, sand blasted, sanded it all down to the empty shell that was.
Finally I feel like I am getting somewhere. It is not a simple task by any means but if I get it done and GOD willing I will, it may be one of the best, difficult and rewarding tasks I ever tackled.
The members of this club have been so helpful with my myriad questions and technical help. Hopefully it will be on the road this year and going to shows with you all. Larry

[doghows]

When you get it done can you come help me!?!?:BEER: I am where you were probably a year or two ago. Can't wait to start doing the sheet metal work. At least that will be putting something back on the car instead of cutting it off.
Beautiful work by the way.

[Luva65wagon]

How about coming over when I get all done with the paint polishing and you can give me some tips on putting in things like the windows, windshield, back glass, trim, etc, etc. Or you might even want to put some of the shiny things on while you are here?????

Whenever you're wanting a hand with the shiny stuff, just call.

I still dread heading out into my garage to do anything; it's so miserable out there. Come-on Spring! Though I guess I "now" have something to do out there...

[BadBird]

I mentioned that I was going to work on installing the Tri-Y headers and someone asked to let them know about the fit. Well I put them in and bolted them down to check fit before I install them permanently and they are going ok so far. The pics will show that the passenger side has clearances that are close. They really new the tolerances in that area to get that close of a fit.
The clearance between the header and the frame is around a .25", between the header and the bell housing it's .125". The pic makes it look closer than it really is. 1/8" isn't much clearance but it is clearance.

The drivers side has no issues.

I am going to place the starter in position just to make sure it fits and then the electric exhaust openers for clearance checks from the tranny and frame. I will let you know if there are any other issues. Larry

[SmithKid]

Larry, thanks for the update/pictures of the header clearances. I guess I'll have to start watching eBay for a set of these headers for my Ranchero. I assume the clearances will be proper for a manual tranny also.

[BadBird]

Better check with Doug's because the manual transmission has a different set of issues. After I torqued the bolts down on the passenger side header the clearance at the bell housing was .004". So removed the header and filed the bell housing.
Now have .125". Wouldn't have thought the torquing process would pull the header in that far. Oh well. It's installed now and I have plenty of room at the starter (It's a smaller than stock version). Doesn't look like there will be a problem installing the electric exhaust cut-outs.

[BadBird]

Just got the hood latch parts back from Tucson chroming and installed today. I also shot the last of the clear coat on the right front fender, hood and dash.
Nothing is easy on this car. I originally had to redo the hood this time because the cheap (*+# mini paint gun that I bought from harbor freight leaked base paint on the hood when I was doing a repair. I tried to wipe up the mess but didn't do a good enough job. It looked ok before I applied the clear coat. Then when I polished the hood it had a slight discoloration that was evident.
The fender just turned out crappy due to color mismatch for whatever reason.
So this morning I heated the garage to 70 degrees, sprayed the high reduced clear on the parts. Then I started putting on the basecoat. I got about half way through the hood when I noticed a small moth had landed on the hood and he tried crawling out of the reduced clear. It left a black smudge about two inches in length I guess from the powder on his body.
Sooooooo I had to completely clean everything off the hood with acetone and start over. That doesn't sound like much, but it meant cleaning the paint gun out three extra times and about 2 hours of additional work.
Finally got it all reshot and I think it will be good. That is if I don't *^&^%% it up again some how.
The one pic is of the left front which is all polished out and looks good along with the rest of the car. Now to just finish the hood and right fender. The next chroming I do will be of the hood hinges. The powder coating on them detracts from the engine bay.
The other pics are of the new clear on the left fender and the new latch parts. They really really look a lot better than the powder coating I had on them.

[SmithKid]

1st Class, Larry!

[Jeff W]

I don't know what attracts bugs to the most visible spot on any project...

Looking great!

[BadBird]

Especially when I spent so much time closing off the garage with walls, plastic and filters. Must have looked like a great big yellow light bulb to the bug. Just getting tired of screwing things up and having to resand this thing so many times. Sooner or later though I am going to be finished with the paint. Someone asked me last year if I was going to have it on the road by spring. Well, not last spring and probably not this spring. Still shooting for summer I guess.

[BadBird]

This post is getting large so I will not apply any other updates and will start a new one after this. Just wanted to share that I finally got the body section of my car all polished out. I think it looks OK for a newby painter and I still need to polish out the dash and a few other parts. See you Wednesday if the good Lord is willing. Larry

[pbrown]

This post is getting large so I will not apply any other updates and will start a new one after this.

You could use the blog feature of the site for this stuff. That's why it's there. It's a great place for long term projects.

[BillP 98201]

Its looking great Larry. You should be proud. You do very nice work.:BEER:

[Luva65wagon]

Ah... you can go a couple more pages without worry. The forum doesn't care and I think it's best to keep it all in one spot. I think my interior thread went 3 or 4 pages deep and I'll continue it there when I ever get back to finishing it up in there.

Looking sweet though. I see a June tech day coming up... [thumb]

[BadBird]

Mentioning a tech day makes me wonder about something. Since it's been over 2 years ago that I dismantled my little project I am wondering if there is a good process to follow for reconstruction.
Since the engine and transmission are in the car and they haven't been fired/tested I see the next step in the build process being electrical installations. Then the dash equipment, steering wheel, then interior so I can sit in the thing and fire up the engine. After that new exhaust. Then rubber seals, glass,etc.
Is that a decent chronological order or do you all have preferred processes that you've followed. Thanks for any input. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

Seems pretty logical to me. Obviously you don't want to install things just to have to remove them again, so think things through as to whether putting something in/on is going to make it hard to put something else in/on. Window weatherstripping is one place it is easy to put something on and then have to pull it. Don't put the belt-line fuzzies in until the glass is in the door, for instance. That stuff is really only made to be put in, not taken out and reused. The clips like to pull out of the parts really easy.

You could also fire it up with minimal wiring, if you wanted to. If it's a first run though, you really want to make sure it can run a little bit if it's got conventional cam/lifters. If roller rockers, not quite so important. But to have radiator hooked up and something for exhaust would be good.

I bought a x-pipe kit from Summit really cheap and only needed to make a couple runs to the muffler shop and I put in a decent exhaust in my pickup that way. Might be worth considering so you can drive it to get what you really want to get - or live with it for a little while.

[BadBird]

Thanks for the info. I want to do the initial start up with open headers just to see if I can get the Mill Creek yuppie crowd to go nuts. Then I will either trailer it down to Snohomish to get the exhaust finished or get real risky and drive it down there with the headers blaring. Some Saturday in the next couple of months it will get loud around here. I hope. Long slow way to go. Keepin on keepin on.

[BadBird]

I finally have the car all the same color. Had to roll it out today and see what it looks like.

[Luva65wagon]

Looks good from here Larry. Almost looks like you should be able to drive it away. You're gonna have a lot of fun when you do... that I can foresee. What a great color too. How can anyone not want one of those... when they look like that.

[68FalconSC]

Man, that canary yellow just EXPLODES ! Absolutely AWESOME ! [BOW]

[BadBird]

First I have a question. I am getting ready to install the front wing window frames and windows but it looks like from what I can gather out of the book that I should install the door handles and mechanisms first??? A couple of pictures of where I am now. Just installed the left hand trim and rear trim and trunk lock.

[BillP 98201]

Cant wait to see what it looks like outside......
You are doing great work Larry

[doghows]

Beautiful work. I can't wait till mine gets that far!!!:rocker:

[Luva65wagon]

Larry,

I assume this is going to be exactly like the Mustang I did... a pain. You got to think in layers and make sure you don't cover up something you need to have in first. I think the door handle mechanism and rod should be in... as I recall -- and the window regulator. The adjustment for the angle of the wing window relative to the door is pretty critical as is the fore-aft adjustments. You should have the upper weatherstipping in too. The back windows are equally fickle to install and align.

If you want me to swing by sometime this weekend to show you the procedure (if you've not already figured it out... I am a bit slow catching up on the forum this week), just let me know. I am, as you know, 10 minutes away at most.

And as for what I'm seeing above.. [BOW]

[BadBird]

Well it doesn't look like I have everything I need to rebuild the window frames. Thought I got it all ordered from Dennis Carpenter but I evidently forgot to order the channel material that runs along the front edge of the front window. I am attaching a couple of pictures of what I need. It is the long channel that has the felt on three sides of the channel. I went to the Carpenter catalog and I can't for the life of me figure out what the part number is that I need. If anyone has ordered these I would appreciate the help figuring it out. It looks like the part number I need is on page 93 and is U-7021550-Y526 or -3C1, but the widths they show are 5/8" and my part measures 1/2" wide. Also, I can't read the other measurements they show. Then I would assume when I get that channel with the felt I have to rivet on the part that is at the lower end of that channel from the old part to the new part?
Roger I can promise you I will be begggggggging for your help as soon as I get this frame back together and ready for installation procedures. Thanks very much, Larry

[redfalken]

It's been a looong time since I did mine but I got them from a place called Restoration Specialties & Supply

http://www.restorationspecialties.com/

The website is a little low tech but if you follow the links you can get a PDF of their catalog and they have a lot of hard to find stuff.

And you do have to drill out the old rivets on that bottom piece and reuse it.

[Luva65wagon]

That's called the Division Bar - WE161 in Dearborn's catalog ($49.95 a pair). I can't find it at all in the Dennis Carpenter catalog.

[BadBird]

Well, with a lot of information from the club, my son, and anybody else who would listen I finally got the wiring done except for the transmission backup and neutral safety switch wires. That will be worked on tomorrow. Installed the instrument panel, switches, and old radio, (not going to hook it up, just for looks). Installed a new CD/Radio in the glove box. Got the glove box door on as good as I can get it to fit. Pain in the rear.
Installed the steering column, and wheel. Oh, yeah, still have to wire the 14 wires to the column.

[Luva65wagon]

Congratulations. And I assume you've tested all of those connections? :WHATTHE: ;)

[BadBird]

Haven't checked a one. It could get kind of sparkly when I hook up the positive battery cable!!!!! Might get really exciting the first time I turn the ignition key.
Roger you mentioned you might stop by and give me some help on getting the steps lined out for installing the over door seals and trim. Would you be able to drop by this week for a short stop?
My brother is coming up here from Tucson on July 7th and we are going to fire the engine up then. Very excited and very nervous about that. Hope I can get all the glass and interior in by that time.

[Luva65wagon]

Larry- As soon as I hear from a friend about his son's league playoffs, so I know what days I'm free (I've missed every game so far and the kid's a bit bummed I haven't made it out to see him yet), I'll call you and see what your schedule is.

Sparkly? Probably more like a massive smoke bomb. Hopefully everything has a fuse. You can use a fuse in the positive battery cable line (something like a 30-amp size) so that if something goes up in flame just by hooking up positive, it will be that and not a wire within a bundle of other wires.

[Jeff W]

That's what I was going to recommend, in-line fuse for everything at the test- maybe even use a 12 volt test light between the positive battery post and the positive terminal to be sure you don't have a dead short when everything is turned off.

[68FalconSC]

Still lovin that yellow, it just NEVER gets old for me. Very nice lookin ride. Jon

[BillP 98201]

Looking GREAT!

[BadBird]

So, since I admittedly am an electrical genius (not). If I put the 12 volt test meter at the positive battery post and to the battery cable............. IF it shows ????? does it mean everything is OK?? and if it shows ??????? does it mean that everything sucks???? Roger, if you hear a bunch of siresn my direction bring your fire extinguisher.

[Luva65wagon]

You wouldn't be testing for voltage - you'd be testing for current or amps flowing. Essentially, if all switches are open (nothing ON), there should be no current/amps flowing. Consider voltage as the water behind a dam and current as the water being released. Too much being released at once will probably cause damage, but a little just means a gate is open (or a switch is ON in your case).

So you take a voltmeter, set it to the highest (at first) AMPS setting and connect the red lead to the battery terminal and the black lead to the cable terminal and watch the meter. It should show very little current flow. Something like .03amps if I recall correctly. Just to be on the safe side, reverse the leads and check with the cable the other direction -- I can't remember which was the current flows though the meter.

Another even more simple test is to take a light bulb in a socket with two wires, one for ground and one for the bulb terminal. Connect this BETWEEN the the battery terminal and the cable. If the bulb glows at all, current is flowing. If it glows very brightly, a lot of current is flowing.

In both of these tests there is still no indicator as to whether it is a short, or something is just in the ON position somewhere. This is why using a fuse (you can start small and work your way up to a large fuse) to see if there is an actual short, which would draw a LOT of current. A small fuse will blow fast and if you can make it all the way up to a 30-amp fuse without one blowing, you maybe won't need me to call the fire department.

Also, looks like the earliest I can make it over is either after work on Friday or early (not too early) on Saturday. Which works best for you?

[Hal Cogburn]

It is ironic that I needed to do the same type of test and happened to come across this thread...I don't want to steal the thread but perhaps my question will help the other fellow.....just in case he finds the same thing.

I hooked up a test light like what was suggested....when I first touch the point end of the light to the battery terminal I see a faint light flash on then off right away...then nothing....I open the door for the under dash light and the test light comes on...
Is it normal for the test light to come on for an instant then off....or does it mean a drain?

Also....I never thought I would like a yellow falcon but this one looks exceptionally nice and can't wait for the opportunity to see it in person...looks like it is being done right and will be (actually is) pretty dang sweet.

Thanks
Hal

[Jeff W]

In my eperience that initial tiny flash is normal. Your whole wiring harness, compoents and whatnot act like a giant capacitor. It doesn't take much current flow to cause the test light to glow for a split second. The tiny surge while the harness, alt, and other things "charge up" may cause that flash.

[Hal Cogburn]

Jeff and others....thanks for the info...Larry, good luck on your wiring...when this is over you will be dang near an expert.

Hal

[BadBird]

Well, I got the side glass all installed and adjusted. Finished up the headliner and windlace along the edge of the headliner and put the fuzzies in. Lots of other little odds and ends finished.
Supposed to get the windshield and back glass installed soon, maybe this week. Then I can start the interior.

My brother is flying up from Tucson on the July 7th and we are going to try and start the engine. Then hopefully drive it to Snohomish (loudly) and get the exhaust installed.

Putting in some very long days trying to get this done before the end of July so I can take it to Reno. Think I will make it!!!???!!!.

Oh, I ordered the Chrome Paint Kit that is listed in Rogers interior thread for my grill. It doesn't look very good right now. I will let you all know how it comes out. Larry

[doghows]

Very nice; It must feel good to be getting this close to driving it again!!

[BillP 98201]

Larry is seeing the light at the end of the tunnel! Keep up the good work

[BadBird]

Before I could install the interior I needed to finish the trunk surrounds that I fabricated. Wouldn't be able to access the amplifier for hookups with the rear seat in. It looks ok, but for some reason when I close the trunk the fwd corners, at the hinge locations bow up just a little. Not sure why because I did all the fab work and fitting with the trunk on and closed for fit. I will either have to remove the small little hinge covers and temp install them for shows or rework them. UGH. The trunk looks ok for the first work I've done fiberglassing.

[BadBird]

Just an update on my 64.
Will not get it to the Hot August Nights in Reno this year. Got the car about 95% done and fired the engine up. Didn't have oil pressure and found the soft plug at the top of the block was missing so..........removed intake, installed plug and now have 70 lbs. of pressure AND a new oil leak that may be the rear main seal.
Will have to do a little (LOL) disassembly, so it will be in the garage while I am in Reno.
Oh, well. Nothing is easy so why should this part work out. The car isn't entered in Reno this year since I was on the 3000 car waiting list. Just wanted to take it along for fun driving. But it is entered for next year. Hope I get it done by then!!!!!............. So....
The bright yellow glow over the hill that was from the car now has a redish tint to the air from me being upset. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

And here I thought that all them sailors were having a great time when I saw that red hue on the horizon last night.

Quite a tough break there Larry. You could have still trailer'd it there and people could have still galked at it the entire way down. But I know, it would have been better to cruise it around.

[BadBird]

Latest pictures of the 64. The exterior finished but, I still don't like the looks of the grill. So I am going to take it off and do more work on it. The engine has been fired up, and I was going to take it in to get the exhaust done. But, my neighbor told me his friend bought all the exhaust system on line and did it himself for a mustang. So, if anyone knows much about that process let me know.
The interior is finished except for the sill plates and kick panels. More to come.

[pbrown]

It's looking real sharp Larry.

I have no doubt that you could install your own exhaust. A Mustang kit would be a good start. Are you planning for 2.25" or 2.5"? Long or shorty headers?

I plan on redoing my exhaust with 2.25" and reproduction hemi mufflers. I will start with the Flowmaster universal 2.25" kit and add a universal X pipe.

[BadBird]

I need to use the 2.5. That is the size of the electric dump tubing. Send me all the info you can on where what to get. Thanks very much.

[pbrown]

I need to use the 2.5. That is the size of the electric dump tubing. Send me all the info you can on where what to get. Thanks very much.

Get this tailpipe kit:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLO-15807/
This will work from the muffler back. It's mandred bent and allows for quite a large muffler under the back seats. Remember that the gas tank is offset to the left so set the left side first and then the right. Use the bumber bolts for hanger locations.

Here is an X-pipe kit that you would connect to your header reducers. Attach mufflers to the output. This has nifty cutouts all ready to go.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BIG-53630FLT/

Mufflers are highly subjective. Here is a link that will show you all of the 2.5" offset/center oval and steel mufflers at Summit.

I just measured my car. It has the same tailpipes as above and there is room for up to a 22" overall length muffler.

You'll need a reducer from your headers to a 2.5" pipe. You'll also need some hangers - two at the rear and one on the x-pipe.

[BadBird]

I had to go look at the car myself. It is the reflection of the yellow shining off the chrome. I think I am going to just leave it chromed intead of painting the black areas. Might change my mind later, but I think for now I like it.

[BadBird]

Just a little bit more to go in the interior but just had to send out some photos. My "to do" list is getting very small now. That is if I can keep from adding more to it.

[BadBird]

The engine is running but it is a little bit toooooooo loud. So I have it on my trailer and taking it to Snohomish Wednesday morning to get the exhaust installed. Didn't like the grill work, so pulled it off and sent it to Tucson to get it chrome plated. Gave up on getting it bright dip anodized. Those folks want more to do that then a NOS grill is worth.

Still have a few things to do. Still waiting on new sill plates, the material from Jake to finish the kick area below the rear seat and several odds and ends like wiring the tach, figuring out why the electric cooling fan doesn't work, etc.

Does a person ever get one of these things done??????????? Crap

[redfalken]

Lookin' sweet Larry! I'm not sure if you ever get done but with a build like that you should get pretty close!! Looking forward to seeing it close up someday!

[Luva65wagon]

Does a person ever get one of these things done??????????? Crap

Yes... and then we take it apart again. :confused:

The fact that you've done most of this by yourself is amazing.

I hope the grille comes back to your liking and i also hope it is resilient to bending. That part still scares me a bit. Chrome, being so hard, is like glass -- it doesn't give well. I hope it will bend with the aluminum, which will get bent - trust me on that (mine already has and I've been ultra careful). Did they offer you any advice in this regard.

[BadBird]

I am really worried about the chrome also. But it is only costing me $250 to get it plated so I can get that done four times for what they want to do the bright dip anodize.

When I talked to them about the denting concern he only stated that almost all the grills now are getting plated. Probably due to cost.

[falcon cobra]

[yay]Hey bad bird, just thought you would like to see my friend's 64 it has a bad fast 289 and dual quads and a big solid lifter cam...yellow is wild....john h

[BadBird]

That car is beautiful and really looks hot, but the hood scoop doesn't turn me on.

I like the looks of the hood in the picture I am attaching. This picture is the one that made me decide on yellow for my car.

I should get my car back from the exhaust folks tomorrow or Friday. I looked into putting the exhaust on my self but didn't want to fight through another major project.

I'll send pics of the installation soon I hope. Larry

[BadBird]

A few pics of the exhaust system. I am really happy with the sound. Not too loud and not too quiet. The "E" cutout system works like a charm and the sound with it open is great.

The system is 2 1/2" with magna-flow mufflers. I didn't want the tail pipes to come out the back behind the bumper and I also wanted the system to be as inconspicuous as possible, blending in to the undercarriage.

Now to work off my single page list of "final" things to do. (probably come up with another "final list" off of that work, or two).

[BillP 98201]

NICE.................
Cant wait to see it and hear it! :rocker:

[BadBird]

Got the grill back from the chrome shop in Tucson this evening. Installed and it sure looks better than my polishing job did. Still have a few minor things to do to say this thing is done. Still have a problem with the electric fan temp switch, door sill on passenger side, small fuel leak at fuel pump, alignment of front end. I am sure there are a couple of other items that will pop up. But, it is getting closer to me driving it to one of our meetings. Yahooooooo. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

Larry,

So what am I seeing on the driver side between the fender and the headlight door? Is there a section missing there or is that yellow tape?

You're going to leave it all chrome or are you going to paint the black accents?

Just curious. Looks nice though.
[thumb]

[BillP 98201]

Looks great Larry.you should pat yourself on the back

[doghows]

Zoom in on the pic. That is a very good reflection of the paint off of the chrome. Beautiful job. Great work...

[Luva65wagon]

Just a little bit more to go in the interior but just had to send out some photos. My "to do" list is getting very small now. That is if I can keep from adding more to it.

Larry, What day did you post this message? I see it as posted on 9/24 here but I have a message from the server saying you posted this just this weekend (10/31). Trying to see if I'm seeing a problem with my eyes or the forum.

[pbrown]

Larry, What day did you post this message? I see it as posted on 9/24 here but I have a message from the server saying you posted this just this weekend (10/31). Trying to see if I'm seeing a problem with my eyes or the forum.

We had a problem with the forum. It's fixed now.

[Luva65wagon]

Here's what I'm seeing. I know you posted these two messages AFTER you posted about the grille coming back from chrome. Very odd. Maybe Patrick knows what is going on.

[BadBird]

Yeah, I noticed they didn't go in the forum but they showed as being sent. Just thought it was a glitch some how. Larry

[BadBird]

Got back from 3 months in Tucson. Sorry I missed the meeting on Wednesday but my health issues didn't improve at all in the heat of Arizona. Did enjoy 3 months with only one day of sprinkles though.
While down there I got my hood hinges chrome plated where my brother has taken all my other parts. Showed the owner pictures of my car and he now has a bunch of them posted on his wall in the office.
I originally powder coated the hinges and they looked Okay but decided to go with chrome and I think they look better.
Drilled out all the shoulder rivets, installed bolts, spacers, and nylon washers. Will re-install the hood later when I get some help lifting the hood.

Still got quite a bit to go to finish this car and finding out where the oil leak is coming from is my priority. Nice to be back and really looking forward to getting to the tech days and helping out with the club. Larry

[BadBird]

Here are a couple pics of the hinges.

[Luva65wagon]

Those look awesome! That car is awesome. I can't wait to see it driving up the road at a show. :3g:

[Jeff W]

I want to see this in person also. When is the target "coming out" show?

[BadBird]

Wish I knew. Been having as many as three of these head pain seizures a day so it limits the amount of time I get to work on this thing. I still am working on things that don't involve laying down so it takes time. Car is entered in Hot August Nights so it's imperative it's done and test driven enough to verify worthiness to drive in the parade. Sure wanted to be ready for the Everett show but, too late for that one. Oh well. Too many good things going on in life for me to keep whining about a few negatives. So many people out there that have it so much worse.

[BadBird]

Finally got a little more work done. I finished the installation of the L/H Rocker Molding. Got the R/H door lower seal fitting holder trimmed to clear the sill plate. Got both sill plates and the carpet is all installed now.
Finalized the installation of the hood interior panels. I like the look but they are too heavy so I will be looking at something else for that area. But not now. I have to use a board to hold the trunk open. Can't live with that.

[redfalken]

I plan on restoring my trunk this summer but nothing that fancy! Nice work. Should that trunk light be turned 180 degrees? I've got one under the hood and have the opening so you don't see it when it's open.

[Jeff W]

I have seen some pictures of Falcon trunks where a gas shock cylinder from a hatchback was installed to hold the lid open... Nice little bracket may look nice.

[BadBird]

Kenny, about the light direction. I will have to check it again but I believe it has a device that turns it on when the trunk is open and if I remember correctly it didn't work the other way. I would rather it pointed down though so I will double check. Thanks and if you need help doing your trunk let me know.
Jeff, I have some of those support rods that I came off the storage doors of my motorhome. I thought about those but didn't want to screw around with drilling through the fiberglas. I also saw several cars in Reno last year that were using chrome plated expanding rods to hold their trunks open in the winds, so that was on my list also. Thanks guys.
Larry

[BillP 98201]

Nice trunk work!!!!! Thats lots of bass!!!!! [BOW]

[Luva65wagon]

Larry - Are you sure you just don't have the torsion springs hooked to the hinges in their lowest (weakest) setting? I think you have 3 levels of tension you can set depending on what notches the torsion springs are placed.

Chances are they are not easy to get to right now - huh?

[BadBird]

I double checked the torsion bars before I put the fiberglas panels in because I knew the trunk panels would weigh more. They were never very strong and I probably should have gone with the system that Jeff mentioned earlier. But, hindsight...........and now that the fiberglas system is all installed, and I am running short on time, I don't want to get into changing it. Maybe after Hot August Nights??? I can already think of a dozen changes that I can make to this car. Scary.

[Jeff W]

I just installed new hood hinges with spings in my early '63. You can have my old prop rod if you want a Ford solution.

[BadBird]

Getting closer and closer. I drove the car in the cul-de-sac and kept hearing a clunking noise and after a few hours we decided it might be the posi-trac rear end making some noise so I put some additive for posi's that I didn't know was required. Drove it back around a few times and then around a few blocks. Started getting louder and felt like it might be towards the front. Babied it home and checked the front end. Don't laugh yet it gets better. I found three missing lug nuts on the L/H wheel with the other two on by one thread. Fixed that, drove it around and sounded Okay so took it down to Les Schwad and they did the alingment.

They drove it around for a while and then on my way home about three blocks away it ran out of gas (gauge shows 1/4). When the car was rolling to a stop I heard a clank clank noise and found the L/H rear wheel mag cap held on with just one screw banging against the wheel.

Pulled the car home, put in some gas, will get more screws and thanks to GOD all these things happened at the times and places they did. I was one thread away from the front end dropping on the pavement. If the car wouldn't have run out of gas I wouldn't have heard the wheel cap rattling and would have lost it and I was close to home when I ran out of gas.

Only a few small things left on my finishing list but after this day I know I need to do a lot more checking before I go very far or very fast. Larry

[BadBird]

Took off the hood today and installed the liner. It was intended to be a one piece installation but after laying it in place I decided it would look better filling in the triangular areas of the hood instead with the yellow in between. I love the look and still have a little trimming to get it fine tuned. I thnk I will remove the fiberglas panels that I put on the trunk lid and install this same material back there. It will also save on weight.

I drove the car around today and the oil leak is fixed. Now I need to concentrate on a noise when I hit a bump. I noticed a dent in one of the shocks today and I will take that one out and see if the noise goes away. Gas gauge isn't working so have to decipher that little issue. But other than that it is running great, sounds good and have gotten a lot of thumbs up reactions just in the few miles I've driven it.

Now hopefully the weather cooperates so I can get it to the Maltby and Greenwood show. Registered for both. Larry

[BadBird]

My friend/neighbor Randy welded my traction bars for me and I got them installed this morning. They are like the ones he used in drag racing and I like the looks. Just have to be careful with clearances now.

Enjoyed the Greenwood car show and watching people. Every kink imaginable in Seattle. Looking forward to the next show now. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

Very nice Larry. Yeah, watch those speed-bumps and raccoons.

Liked the term "kink" - that fits.

[BadBird]

I think you all knew that I had trouble with my 64 when I took it to Reno for Hot August Nights. Even before I went I was having trouble with overheating so knew it would get worse when I got to the high hot country. It did. Made it back and forth from where we stayed at the KOA in Boomtown to Reno but just barely each time. Got pretty darn warm.

Talked to a lot of folks in Reno that had 347 stroker engines in there Fords and the recurring theme was "yep, we had to put in a better radiator". So, when I got back I purchased a four core aluminum radiator that is gauranteed to keep a high horsepower engine cool and instead of using the electric pusher fan I installed an engine fan. I made sure I have clearances between the radiator and the cutout structure then installed door trim protector around the metal edges. Hope that stuff doesn't melt away. Guess I'll find out soon enough.

I was sure, that was going to be a huge issue, since there wasn't any room for the radiator, fan, and clearances to the March pulley system I have. So, I cut out the frame at the front end, (as you can see from one of the pics). I'm not worried about structural issues since I have the crossmember added for the Heidts suspension system taking the load.

Then I installed the radiator inside that cutout area. Installed the fan with a two inch spacer for clearance from the pulleys and I have one inch of clearance between the radiator and the fan. MY great friend and neighbor is going to get me a hand made fan shroud built to protect my pinkies.

Started the car and ran it for awhile. Didn't drive it. Haven't been feeling too good so staying at home for awhile. But, when I ran the car before, it would just keep going up in temperature to around 230 degrees and then even got worse if I drove it. Now it went up to 190, and dropped back to 180 when the thermostat openned and stayed there at idle speed for about 6 minutes.

I will know more when I get it on the road, but I am at least feeling somewhat better about the temperatures. Couple of pics attached. Badbird AKA Larry

[doghows]

Have you thought about putting a fan shroud on? That would drop your temps even more.

[redfalken]

Must have been scarey cutting into that new paint!! :NERVOUS: I like how the door protector trim looks. Hope it holds up with the heat.

Lookin' good and hopefully cooling much better now!

[BadBird]

Yeah, I didn't like cutting, but took my time and didn't do much damage to surrounding areas and especially the wires that ran inside the frame. I wrapped the wires and they should be okay. About the fan shroud Doghows, I do believe the fan shroud will help some more. I mentioned it in the thread that my neighbor is getting me an aluminum fan shroud made. I will take some more pics after that and will keep you all informed on the cooling issues. Badbird AKA Larry

[BadBird]

Well, I took the Yellow bird out for a drive this afternoon. Only went about ten miles but I did get into some of the Boeing traffic and I really really got on it hard a few times. Left some pretty good black stripes on 132nd street. It never went above 190 degrees. It stayed right at 180 while driving and got up to 190 sitting in traffic. That is not a full test yet, but before it would have gone above 230 doing that drive. So, I am happy for the time being.

Now to fix some of the things that need attention. I still have to figure out a better method to align my head lights. Gas sending unit in the tank is not showing correct levels. Couple of other little things bugging me but so far so good. Badbird AKA Larry

[falcon cobra]

Sounds like you got it fixed, did you change the thermastat ? by the way there is a ford show at bickford ford on sunday in the rain ....jh:WHATTHE:

[BadBird]

I tried the restrictor plates while in Reno with 1/2" to 3/4" holes to try that. I now have a 180 Degree thermostat installed. Looking forward to getting the shroud made and installed. Might try to make the Ford show at Bickford if the weather is okay. Badbird

[BadBird]

I finished painting the front grill panel. I like it much better now. There are two pictures here. The first is the new paint, although I did take it all apart again and paint the side frames of the radiator. It looks even better after I did that.

The 2nd pic is the before look when it was yellow.

[SmithKid]

I like it much better black also. I'm gonna do the same to mine.

[Luva65wagon]

I finished painting the front grill panel. I like it much better now. There are two pictures here. The first is the new paint, although I did take it all apart again and paint the side frames of the radiator. It looks even better after I did that.

The 2nd pic is the before look when it was yellow.

So the radiator was done after these pics? I think that would have helped too. The grille really stands out now.

[doghows]

Very nice. Black was the right choice.

[BadBird]

Thought I would add another picture to help explain about painting the radiator flanges. When I had the front of the car torn off to paint the front cowl black, figured I would make the fan shroud also. After all that was complete, put it back together and realized I didn't like the looks of the radiator outside flanges being shiny. So, took it back apart and painted those parts.

Here is a pic showing those painted now. Carol didn't want me to paint the radiator fins black, so being a pleasing person,:D left them alone.

I have the grill off awaiting some black vinyl decal material and will try and apply at the locations on the grill that usually get painted. But, since my grill is chromed and paint won't stick, I saw that some people have used the decal material with some success. Will soon see and if it works I will post pics of that also. Larry

[pbrown]

I'm interested in the decal solution too. Seems my paint is peeling on my restored grill.

[BadBird]

Pat, here is where I ordered the vinyl decal from. It was $6.00 and another $6.95 for shipping. If it works I will let you know if you want to wait and see? Superior Graphics & Signs Inc(help@edecals.com)

[BadBird]

Received the decal material today and applied it to the grill. It looks absolutely stunning. Now for the longevity issue. I think it is going to last, but time will definitely tell. The pic attached is the best I could get with the brightness. Inside the garage it just was too bright with the flash. I don' t have the headlight rings on, I am taking the grill back off to finish the panels I made to go between the grill upper edge and the radiator cowl.
It might sound weird but hope it turns out. Right now the plan is to put all my car information on the panels instead of on a sign that sits in front of the car. More to come. Larry

[redfalken]

Nice work Larry. Get a close up if you can. All the details you're putting in to the front area and grille really pull the whole car together.

I hope the decal material holds up. I bought a roll of pinstripe tape in dull black that is the perfect width to go into the grooves on the center console (60-62).

It still looks great but it's inside the car and out of the weather. The hardest part of that project was getting the old paint off. I ended up using acetone and 0000 steel wool. I wish I knew what Ford originally used. I used a SEM brand self-etching rattle can paint many years ago on mine. It looked OK for a few years but I need to redo it at this point.

[BadBird]

I was getting ready to have a sign made up to place in front of the car at shows. Came up with this instead. I like it, and hope it lasts. Larry

[SmithKid]

Very nice, Larry. As always, your work is flawless.

[Jeff W]

That's one way to insure you can actually complete the car. You wouldn't want to change anything then have it not match the statements.... like change the rear end ratio:banana:

Very nice. How did you get the printing done?

[redfalken]

Very creative! Being as most people stand there and gawk at the engine, they may as well have a read!

[BadBird]

Jeff, I made up a full size facsimile and took it to Fast Signs. They did a very good job, added some Falcon emblems all for a very good price. I already have changes in mind for the car, but it is cheaper this way than to create a full size sign and then change that. Larry

[Jeff W]

I bet changes would be eady if they saved the template. I have to say it is a very unique idea that a have never seen on the many of thousands of show cars looked at.

I wouldn't be surprised if you start a national fad... "The Larry Board".

[Luva65wagon]

Larry - very nice. So, are these left in place all the time? Can't wait to see all the new additions.

[BadBird]

Roger, I bolted them in place with two of the bolts that hold the grill on. So, hopefully they will not get messed up driving.

That is a good idea that I didn't think of Jeff, I will have to contact "Fast Signs" tomorrow to see if they hold on to the templates. As far as me being the first to do this, I saw a 56 Chevy awhile back that had just a few sentences on the front area around the grill.

For a long time, I wanted to find something that would close off those areas, and tried fabricating a fiberglas panel before. Failure was only obtained doing those. Too much sanding and forming trying to get them flat, hence these metal panels.

At the same time I was working on getting a sign made up, and saw the 56. That's what got me to this point.

Now, I am trying to determine what my next processchange will be. More to come, I hope. Larry

[BadBird]

Looking for some input. I have looked at quite a few engines over the last couple of years and I am seeking an intake system that will give my upper engine a "wow" look to it. Thought the endurashine with the holley that I installed would do that, but really not happy.

I found that I can buy the edelbrock air gap with two polished holleys and linkage, etc for around $1400. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-20364/overview/make/ford IF anyone has any ideas that would provide the wow factor when I open the hood it would be appreciated. I have seen some systems that I really like, but the wow price factor has pushed me back to the dual four setup.

Something in the same price range would work or maybe a little higher, but now much. Thanks Larry

[doghows]

Eight stack would be my choice but that has that wow price to go with it. Seems like all the shows I go to all I see is one carb or two carbs and now the three twos are everywhere. That was one reason I did what I did if I had the cash it would have been the eight stack.
Sorry I know that didn't help at all. I think yours has the wow factor now?!?
I'm sure anything you do will look "WOW".

[Luva65wagon]

I'm with Steve on this one. I'm wow'd every time I see your car too. Every bit of it. But if I had my choice I'd go with the 8-stack or the 3-2 setup in that order as well.

But I think the 3-2 is probably the least expensive, but probably more than your current budget. Though it would be WOW! Maybe hold off and save up a little more money. I really don't think anyone but you looks at it and isn't very impressed by your work. It is flawless.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-csum1906/overview/make/ford

[Jeff W]

Larry, if I had your talents I would build a fiberglass cover, something wide and low with twin K&N beehives dropping down from each side to fill in the now empty area between the fender and valve covers. You could design it to fill in any other area you felt looked anemic.

I know this doesn't address your wish for more carburation and tuning fun, but since it runs and sounds so great now, it may be a way to add wow and pop without the cost and headaches of re-tuning.

Anyone can throw money at a car and have wow... showing your art and making something unique is what turns me on.

[Luva65wagon]

I'm with Jeff on that one too!

What a politician I have become, huh?

[BadBird]

Very appreciative of the feedback. I agree that the 8 stack is what I would select, but not sure I can afford that option. Jeff, I am going to look at your idea, it would be the cheapest solution. Just need to think about that for awhile and see what would look interesting.
Here is a system but I don't understand how it would work on my car. Also a little too much, but close.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/289-302-331-347-FORD-COMPLETE-TURN-KEY-EFI-SYSTEM-WEBER-STYLE-THROTTLE-BODIES-/181056616510?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a27d0b83e&vxp=mtr#ht_2130wt_1303

[BadBird]

Will this work on my car without having to do a bunch of electronic changes?? http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBF-DOWNDRAFT-MANIFOLD-WEBER-STYLE-THROTTLE-BODIES-/170691058856?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bdfadca8#ht_1046wt_1402

[doghows]

Well you'd need injectors that is another $400. Electric EFI fuel pump $200 return fuel line and filters $150. Not sure what this setup uses for controls? Computer or is it mechanical?
I'll read it some more. I have a customer of mine that builds the ford gt cars up here and he uses the new 5.0 coyote motors and has an eight stack kit that goes right on top of those. He also has the setup for 302's and 351's. I'll try and call him to get a price. His are complete with wiring and computers. Just need to address the fuel supply issues.

[doghows]

That first setup is more complete that is all the extra stuff I was listing. Plus I forgot the o2 sensors. Good luck with what ever you choose it will all look great in you car. :rocker:

[falcon cobra]

I would just go for a large blower with injectors on it, maybe john force has some stuff in the back room that is not used anymore. not sure why the ebay ad shows only one ox. sensor for a V8 and what about the cpu. buyer beware with those deals....jh:p

[BadBird]

Thanks John, Thoought about a honkin big blower but don't want to cut holes in my hood. I am aware of your buyer beware warning and will keep checking. Contacted them today and will receive a call from one of their techs on what would be needed to change over from carb engine to fuel injected. From what the person told me today he believes everything is included but wants a tech to talk to me. I will share the info here. Larry

[pbrown]

This is the option if you want to stay with carbs.

http://www.jiminglese.com/

Or go with EFI with this setup.

http://www.borlainduction.com/v8_kits/302.html

or this one

http://www.eightstack.com/

[pbrown]

Also know that with an individual runner system, you will need a different cam. Lobe separation angle requirements are different.

[Jeff W]

This is they flavor I was thinking about for just a fiberglass air cleaner solution:

http://www.walterprosperaircleaners.com/#!collection/vstc1=phantom

Of course lower, bring the K&N's out over the valve covers a bit farther and more YELLOW.

Kind of a combination air cleaner and engine cover.

[BadBird]

Thanks Pat and Jeff. I really appreciate the help and knowledge you guys have. I love the inglese system, but so far can't find anything I can afford. The systems you show are definitely in the "wow" look I am after. I will take some time Jeff and look at your idea. Larry

[Jeff W]

I think this is the coolest thing I have seen for under hood treatment.

[BadBird]

Looks good Jeff. After talking to Jim Inglese about his carb setups and getting infor about the fuel injection options I think that the dual fours will have to suffice. They are not exactly what I want, but I cannot afford over $5000 for just the fuel delivery system.

The dual four kit from ebay is what I probably will go with, but still have time to do some thinking.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-20354-Dual-Quad-Manifold-Carb-Kit-Ford-Small-Block-289-302-/190938998903?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c74d9e877&vxp=mtr#ht_2226wt_1164

[SmithKid]

That manifold looks quite tall, Larry. Is it going to necessitate a scoop? Possibly a shaker in your future too?

[falcon cobra]

Larry, what type of cam do you have? is a flat tappet or a roller. what is the number and the manufactor. I think I'am going to change mine..jh

[BadBird]

John Henry, I have a Ford Racing E303 cam. It is a roller cam. That is all I know about it. When I bought the short block on ebay that is all the info he sent about the cam.

Here is what I think I am going with on my car for the carb system. It will cost a little more than the dual fours but I like the looks a whole lot more.

Talked to Inglese yesterday and he is a great guy who loves what he is doing.

Here is some information on the four barrel replacement setup. The picture attached is what mine will look like, except my carbs will be painted the same color as my car and I will be attaching it to my existing Edelbrock Air Gap Endurashine manifold.

I definitely cannot afford the Inglese 8 stack which runs over $6000 for the options I wanted.


The Weber dual sidedraft system is a far cry from the typical four-barrel carburetor everyone expects to see when you lift the hood. The most typical response is "What IS that?" They run as good as they look, and the height is just 6-5/8" from the manifold's carburetor surface.

The progressive linkage allows you to cruise on a small primary 2-barrel; the secondaries are engaged only on demand. The secondary carburetor's throats can be sized the same as the primaries, or bigger, depending on engine size and the intended use. With Weber carburetors, even the cfm can be changed, so this unit can be sized to work on any size engine from a smallblock to a bigblock.


The Twin DCOE 2+2 Progressive Four Barrel system is your alternative to a standard four barrel carburetor. It's exotic but doesn't break the bank, with a total cost of only about A THIRD of what a 4-downdraft system costs. Besides their exciting appearance, the twin DCOE package delivers legendary Weber performance with instant throttle response. This setup is also very well-suited for top-of-blower applications, and can be run in tandem as a 4-sidedraftsystem on a dual quad manifold. From tip-to-tip of the velocity stacks, this unit is 18.5" wide.

This system provides great throttle response with no hesitation (unlike similar units offered elsewhere).

This is the standard twin progressive Weber DCOE system shown as shipped. It comes with a low-pressure fuel regulator, fittings, and base gasket.

This unit replaces any standard four barrel. The progressive linkage is important for economy, so it is standard on all the units.

Capable of flowing any required cfm, this system comes pre-calibrated and ready to run on whatever engine you specify.

Shipped ready to bolt-on and go, and available with your choice of any custom finishing options. Complete instructions are included

[falcon cobra]

Hey larry, thats what I have in my car now a E 303 cam. it's .498 lift and 220 deg. @ .050- static is 282 and it's ground on 110deg. lobe centers. also thats a EFI cam. the comp cam people say a carb cam is different than a fuel injection cam, for what thats worth. I like the carb setup but I think you need two more. four would be cooler..this is what I had years ago and nobody seem to know or care what it was, one guy ask if it was a turbo....thanks ..jh:BIRTHDAY:

[falcon cobra]

Sorry but I forgot the cam is made by ford motor sport and edelbrock also makes the same grind. did you get your motor from AD Preformance on e-bay? if so they have a shop in redmond, I was just there yesterday, nice motors they do there....jh

[Luva65wagon]

Here is what I think I am going with on my car for the carb system. It will cost a little more than the dual fours...

Wow...

See, it works already!

[BadBird]

Thanks JH. I got the short block from a guy on ebay for $2000 who bought it from DSS Racing. It has a level 10 block with all forged internals. He bought it for his mustang 9 second drag car. He installed the E303 cam, roller lifters and fluidamper balancer. He offered to sell me some heads, intake and carb after I purchased the small block. If the E303 is incorrect, he didn't know it either and if it does 9 seconds it must not be too bad. I don't know yet what my car will do, but I know for sure it is faster than my 67 442 that I drag raced for a couple of years.

They had a baby and the wife said to sell the engine. I contacted DSS about what else I should run on the car. They recommended the AFR 185 heads and they said to install a victor junior intake. I wanted something more for looks so they recommended the Air Gap Endurashine that I have now. They also told me that the Holley avenger carb would be best for mostly street driving and looks.

As far as getting all eight. I wish that it fit in my budget better. I saw their four barrel setup that I am getting in Reno and I loved the look. It had the "Inglese" sticker on one of the carbs but I still wasn't sure what it was.

For the difference in costs between $1900 and over $6000 I will just have to get by. That is unless you want to donate a few "K" to the LCSmith Benevolence Fund.

This is something that has bugged me for a couple of years. Actually ever since I installed the carb I have now. It just doesn't "POP" my senses with the visual effect. The one I saw in Reno, made me say "wow, I like that". Maybe next year I will have the same problem, don't know. I might look for another air gap intake that isn't endurashined and paint it yellow in the future. Maybe not.

Inglese says that this four barrel setup will out perform my holley, and it will get a lot better gas mileage, as if I care about mileage. It uses only one two barrel during normal driving and if you stomp the go button it kicks all four in. Even if it doesn't out perform what I have now, it will be okay. I can only get on this thing at on ramps anyway.

[falcon cobra]

I really like that cam in my car it idles about 800 and it's way faster with the 4bbl. than the injection for some reason..jh

[BadBird]

Well, this is what I ordered today. Just couldn't force myself to pay more than double what this dual quad setup cost. Now I am looking for different valve covers and air cleaner. Larry

[pbrown]

Maybe just paint your old valve covers to match the exterior.

That dual quad setup will look great.

[BadBird]

You saw the picture of the dual quad setup I went with. Here are the valve covers and air cleaner that I purchased. Hope they work and look like I want. Larry

Now here is another question. I am attaching a picture of my brake cylinder and booster. Since I want to get a chrome one, do you think something like this will work? http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-Dual-Diaphragm-Universal-Chrome-Brake-Booster-Master-Cylinder-1-Bore-/171130369014?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27d82a33f6&vxp=mtr#ht_3350wt_1127

[Luva65wagon]

Larry - The only thing I get nervous about with these aftermarket parts in crucial areas is that if they fail, can you put normal parts-store parts on them to get you home.

This seems to say it uses standard GM specs, so assuming the bore is the same as what you have now, then it should be a simple swap. Otherwise you may need to adjust things to match the new parts - but you have adjustable proportioning valve, so you're probably good to go.

[BadBird]

Thanks for the help Roger, don't know what we would do without your great feedback. I am dismantling the car today, taking off the carb, intake, and then the brake booster. I will measure all the mounting locations on the booster to make sure the new setup will fit.

I will post some pictures of all the parts that are going up for sale, I will have the Edelbrock RPM Air Gap with Endurashine, the Holley Carb, valve covers, air cleaner, and booster / master cylinder.

Thanks again. Larry

[falcon cobra]

Larry have you got the duel quads on yet?? if so how does it run....:3g:jh

[BadBird]

Not running yet. Doing quite a bit of updates on the engine bay. Changed the intake and carbs, air cleaner being reworked to fit, valve covers and breathers, aluminum brake cylinder, braided radiator hoses, still waiting on the fuel regulator and pieces that I sent to Tucson to get chromed. It will be a few more weeks before I have it up and about. But, I am pleased with the upgrades so far. Larry

[BadBird]

Finished installing the fuel lines, fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure gauge. They look okay I think.
The air cleaner is just sitting on the carbs. It's a little too tall and still looking for an element that will work. I love the air cleaner and don't want to install a bubble hood, so hoping to find something that will work. Tried a dual four element from a 427 and it was way to long, but it was the right height.
Next I have to tackle installing the new master cylinder and change the brake lines to fit it.
It has been noted throughout this forum that you never get done with these things. I am living proof of that. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

If that's not wow factor, Larry, I don't think wow is possible. Looks really good!

And no, never done. How much clearance do you need to make it fit? I think a shaker hood would be really cool. :D

[Jeff W]

I love the valve coverss. Maybe you can modify the air cleaner base. It all looks real nice.

Can you get it buttoned up before you head South?

[BadBird]

I machined 3/4" off the base section and I can take 1/4" from inside the upper section. That would mean I need an element about 3/4" shorter.
I am trying to get it back on the road before I leave for Arizona. We'll see.

[falcon cobra]

Larry, if your new dual quads don't get it maybe somthing like this will, milage not good, won't pass the test and vision may be impared. but other than that it look cool....jh:3g:

[BadBird]

At least that way I don't have to worry about hood clearances.

[BadBird]

Installed the new master cylinder today and made new brake lines. It looks better than before, also now have the backing plate behind the booster chromed instead of painted black so maybe that helps. Here are some pics of the master cylinder before and after.

[pbrown]

Look great as always.

[BadBird]

Just installed my new "347" emblems in place of the "302's" that I had before. Never did like them. Now if anyone needs some perfect condition 302 emblems, they are for sale. $10 a piece.
I tackled my engine bay this winter to give it more "pop". Wasn't satisfied with it at Hot August Nights and other shows. Got a lot done and I think I am happy with the results. Sure wish I could have afforded the Jim Inglese setup but spending $4000 more than I did, just wouldn't work.
Here are the finished pictures. Larry

[pbrown]

Did you get the hood clearance issues solved?

It seems to me that you need to get some yellow Accel spark plug wires to complete things.

[Luva65wagon]

Did you get the hood clearance issues solved?

It seems to me that you need to get some yellow Accel spark plug wires to complete things.

Funny... I was thinking the same things.

Looks very nice Larry. Can't wait to see it this Spring. [thumb]

[BadBird]

Pat, I am still looking for a thinner air cleaner element. I haven't given up and like the look of this cleaner so will figure something out.
As far as the yellow wires, it is funny because my brother and I talked about that during the superbowl, so guess I will need to make that change. Larry

[pbrown]

Maybe two small round ones would fit.

http://www.shelbyengines.com/collections/engine-compartment/products/air-cleaner-cover-stainless

[redfalken]

I don't know how that air cleaner sandwiches together but I'm wondering if the filter element comes in a different thickness with the same oval size?

Of course that would decrease the amount of air flow but unless you know that it's getting just what it needs now, it may be OK to decrease it a little.

[pbrown]

Here is another air cleaner idea.

http://www.billetspecialties.com/air-cleaners/dual-quad/air-cleaner-dual-quad/1/

It looks to me that the one you have has a lot of crown to it. The Billet Specialties ball milled version looks pretty flat.

[BadBird]

Kenny, I haven't found anything that is thinner and the same size periphery. I checked with K&N and other manufacturers but no luck so far.

I am sure there are other type of air cleaners that will work, but I love the one I have and if necessary I will bolt a plate down to the top of the air filter and when showing the car just set the upper section on the top. Problem is I will sure as heck close the hood and mess up the air cleaner or dent the hood.

I did find a 427 dual four filter that was thinner like I want but could not get it to fit inside the footprint of the air cleaner interior. I will figure something out. I have been searching the internet to see if a company would make what I want, but without luck so far. You would think there would be someone that makes these to fit????? Larry

[SmithKid]

Larry, possible to cut a section out of the back of the one for the 427, re-seal the cut, then reshape it a bit?

[doghows]

Larry, I have a customer of mine that owns a shop over here and he can make anything out of billet, or steel or about any metal. I have one of his custom air cleaners in my shop display case. Unfortunately it has a C*#€y cut in it. I'll try and snap a picture of it in the am. His shop is D&E customs in Sequim. I'll touch base with him and see what cost might be on something like that.

[doghows]

This is the top I have in my shop. Eric can make anything any size.


Sorry for the obscene picture on the air cleaner. lol

[BadBird]

Gene, that is exactly what I tried to do. Two major issues with it. One the thickness of the filter would not allow it to sit down inside the grove area so I trimmed off that to make it somewhat better and the rubber on the top and bottom of the element was fairly hard and broke when trying to bend it around the curves. Make sense??

Thanks for the offer about making a billet cleaner but I have the aluminum part, I need the filter part.

Here are a couple of pictures. One of the base. I trimmed .75 off the bottom of the base round extensions now so it looks a lot different from the picture you see.

The other shows how tall the element is and I need something about .75-1.00 shorter. Don't worry about the top not aligning in the picture, it is just sitting on top of the filter element.

Larry

[doghows]

Dumb question but can you lower the whole thing? IE shave some off the bottom of the base? Or did I miss that already?

Found it never mind.....

[BadBird]

Here is a picture of my brothers 64 Thunderbolt clone and it's ready to take to Reno. Larry

https://col127.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=445d03f8-ffb5-11e3-92c2-00215ad9be50&Aux=814%7c0%7c8D161D92DC0FB10%7c%7c0%7c0%7c0%7c0%7 c%7c&cid=a20e1de6e38c5e7e&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att

[Luva65wagon]

Larry - issue with the picture posted.

[BadBird]

Here are a couple of pics from the Reno trip. I still am trying to get the pictures off my wifes Kindle to the computer so more to come I hope. The Fairlane in the 3rd pic is my brothers. The Falcon and Fairlane got 10 times the attention of any other cars that we saw.

I am amazed at how many people come up and say they had a Falcon in High School or College and want to get another.

A young lady who owned a 64 in college wanted to give me a "serious" offer on my car and asked what was the least I would accept. Thought she might have a "serious" heart attach when I told her. Her dad said they would get back to me but they were only half way to what I would have accepted.

[BadBird]

I found this picture on the internet of my car at this years Hot August Nights. MY brothers 64 Fairlane is right behind me so this is on the main street of Reno. Larry
http://flickrhivemind.net/blackmagic.cgi?id=15633868916&url=http%3A%2F%2Fflickrhivemind.net%2FTags%2F1964% 252Cfutura%2FInteresting%3Fsearch_type%3DTags%26te xtinput%3D1964%252Cfutura%26photo_type%3D250%26met hod%3DGET%26noform%3Dt%26sort%3DInterestingness%23 pic15633868916&user=&flickrurl=http://www.flickr.com/photos/32333887@N08/15633868916


http://flickrhivemind.net/blackmagic.cgi?id=15654912801&url=http%3A%2F%2Fflickrhivemind.net%2FTags%2F1964% 252Cfutura%2FInteresting%3Fsearch_type%3DTags%26te xtinput%3D1964%252Cfutura%26photo_type%3D250%26met hod%3DGET%26noform%3Dt%26sort%3DInterestingness%23 pic15654912801&user=&flickrurl=http://www.flickr.com/photos/32333887@N08/15654912801

[dhbfaster]

Nice Pics Larry...:shift:

[redfalken]

Large and in charge!! Good job Larry :rocker:

[ew1usnr]

I am amazed at how many people come up and say they had a Falcon in High School or College and want to get another.

That sounds like you are describing me three years ago!

Your yellow Falcon is amazingly CLEAN.

The 1961 Falcon looks really nice.

I would like to borrow your brother's Fairlane for a couple of weeks just to try it out.

Dennis.

[BadBird]

Powder coated the rear end housing yesterday and spent the whole morning cleaning up the mess. Here are a few pictures.

[dhbfaster]

Nice....that is one big rear end. I thought about using those portable heaters (UV blasters?) but all my big parts are done now. Any problems getting the cure all over the part? Look forward to seeing the completed unit.

[BadBird]

I bought the system several years back before I started on the Falcon. I had a ski boat trailer that needed new paint. Went to Marysville to get the parts powder coated. Had six long parts and they wanted $90 dollars a piece. too much.

Started checking on the internet and found that Eastwood sold the powder coating gun, the UV light and bought the paints on ebay.

Got everything, including a home oven to heat small parts for less than they wanted for just the six parts.

Needed a sand blasting system, and a large air compressor and a blasting cabinet. Those have been used a lot. Sandblasted almost the whole Falcon.

The trailer came out beautiful and then started on the Falcon not too long later. Powder coated a bunch of parts for the car that can be seen on several pages of this thread.

The heat light I have works great, you have to move it several times, kept the laser thermometer on the part to make sure it stayed at temperature.

[BadBird]

I saw on somebodies post that they couldn't believe how long they've been working on their car. So, I went back to my posts and realized that I started my car 9 years ago. Amazing, but I would have guessed 6 max.
Having this car has been fun, frustrating, exciting, scary at times, expensive, and on and on and on.
But, there are some things that I am especially happy about.
Belonging to this club, making the friends here, and learning all that I have.
I had never welded before, never did body work, never painted a car, never worked on most of the things that it took to get it done (DONE?)
I just want to let everyone know, that I have so appreciated all the help to get me where I am.
BUT. I want to say a special thanks to our president. One for keeping on when he was and is faced with the daunting task of keeping it moving. More importantly, for his unbelievable help and knowledge to personally help me.
This club, reaches around the world. It helps people everyday, and we need to keep it going, doing more (me) to help.
Thanks again to all of you. Now, I have to go out and get the rear end put back in my car so I can drag race this year. As always, more to come. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

Time flies when you're having fun. It doesn't often seem to fly by when you're not - though it tends to move at the same rate... second, by second.

Thanks as always, but I'm just doing what I like to do. The club does sort of run by itself, but it needs to be more exciting, I think, to draw newer people. And of course, I'm tired and so is everyone else - and it shows. We push on best we can.

Your car, and all you've done, is a testament to what a person can do with some effort - help from friends - and maybe YouTube? Whatever your resources may have been you have far more patience than I do, for sure. And accomplished some things that I am still in awe of. We have all learned things from you.

Now get out there in that warm, new, garage of yours and get 'er done.

Again, we need a whip-cracking emoji.

Not the same, but it's all I have for now. :sawzall:

[SmithKid]

Quote: "Again, we need a whip-cracking emoji."

There's lotsa free whip-cracking stuff on the interweb. Like this?
There's even some animated w/sound.

[Luva65wagon]

Still looking, but there is this now:

:~:

[SmithKid]

Like! [thumb]

[BadBird]

Okay, so now I have no reason to not get the whip cracking. Carol just showed me old pictures showing I started my car in 2007. Wow. 10 whole years of this. My goodness, time is flying.
Just went to a memorial service for a very good friend from my golf league. His father also plays in the league and is close to my age. He wasn't even 50 years old. So, moral to this story is, God only gives us a specific number of days. I better get cracking. :~:larry

[BadBird]

Still haven't finished the 9" rear end installation. Sitting at home with a sore throat, fever, headaches and feeling like crap.
Friends asked me to post some pics of my car on facebook. Here is what I posted. Larry

[Gitanesteel]

Still haven't finished the 9" rear end installation. Sitting at home with a sore throat, fever, headaches and feeling like crap.
Friends asked me to post some pics of my car on facebook. Here is what I posted. Larry


Nice photos. Get better - the crud hit me this past week also. Definitely prefer that it didn't

[BadBird]

As I mentioned in the All Ford Show post, I couldn't make it because something let loose in my engine. Heard a good loud pop, then started stuttering a little. Made enough noise when running that I had it towed 3 miles home.
I figured it was a roller rocker or push rod issue and was right. Pulled the right valve cover off and found a broken stud in the head. The nut had backed off at least an 1/8" before it broke. Put a few nicks in the rocker. Took a couple of pics.
I cannot get the broken end of the stud out of the tightening nut, so may have to get a new stud and nut.
I think this will be the only problem :NERVOUS:, the pushrod is still straight and don't think the valve could do any damage to the piston. So, my plan for right now is to reinstall a new stud, reset the lifters and see what happens.
If anyone has some comments or thoughts on anything else that could have happened please let me know. Hope I get it correct before next weekends Maltby show. Larry

[Jeff W]

Do you remember the brand of the studs? Were they ARP or did they come with your roller kit? If they were no names I may consider replacing all.

[Luva65wagon]

I'll second Jeff's comment. Seem very odd to pull the top off of a good-brand stud. I'd get a set of ARP studs, especially if you're still going to race it.

[BadBird]

The studs came pre-installed on the AFR 185 heads. I don't think it was a stud problem as much as it was operator error. The nut on that stud had backed off almost 1/4". I think the rocker just got caught rocking back and forth and snapped the stud. It made a loud pop for sure.
These heads are known as some of the best for racing so not too worried about the studs. Just worry about me getting them tight when they are adjusted. These lifters have always made quite a bit of noise and I have checked them twice before. Just left one a little loose I think. More to come I am sure. Larry

[BadBird]

I went to AFR's website and found an interesting footnote about their AFR 185's. So, I am going to replace all the studs and will have to replace all the roller rockers to 7/16 also. Poopers. Larry
Footnotes



AFR Small Block Ford

We strongly recommend using 7/16" rocker studs with today's fast cam rates and RPM capabilities as 3/8" Rocker Studs can occasionally break.

[Luva65wagon]

You would think they'd just use the 7/16 studs and be done with it. So all new studs and new rockers both.

You mentioned they were noisy all along, which has been stressing me out with my Ranchero motor. I readjusted the valves because I thought they were not set right after my rocker/guide plate/push-rod issue a while back. They we set right, but it seems noisy roller rockers is a thing. Chased it down of YouTube and Google and so many have this issue. Nobody says, or seems to know, what is clacking exactly. But now I'm obsessed with leaning why!
:bicker:

[BadBird]

After talking to a Ford racing engine builder I am going to stick with 3/8 studs and have ARP new ones ordered. The builder states he uses 3/8 studs and gets over 7000RPM and never broke one. He also said the studs that used to come with the AFR 185 heads were not good and tend to break. Well, we will see.
I got another stud and installed it. Tomorrow I will start the car up, hope there isn't any weird noises. If everything sounds okay I will drive it until I get the new studs installed. If there are issues after the run, :doh:More to come. Larry

[BillP 98201]

Hope everything goes well Larry

[BadBird]

Thought you all might be interested in this correspondence between myself and Air Flow Research. If this works out the way the representative tells me, I will be more than happy. Larry


To AFR tech and sales representative.......Several years ago, I bought a set of your AFR 185 heads for my 302/347 SBF. I would guess it has been at least 8 years. The car now has about 2500 miles and is used mainly as a show car. But just last week, I broke a head stud while going a low speeds. I researched your website which says to replace the studs with 7/16. BUT. I read a bunch of information on several sites that says the studs were originally not the greatest of quality. IS that true or did you use ARP studs that long ago. I don't want to go through the cost of changing all my studs and rockers if I can get by with just replacing my studs with ARP 3/8 studs. Thanks a bunch. Larry Smith
Here is the answer I got back.


If your heads are 8+ years old it wont be an ARP stud, we didn’t switch until middle of 2014. Send me your address and I’ll get some replacement ARP 3/8 out to you at no charge.


Thank you for choosing AFR,

Jerami Patrick
AFR Sales & Technical Support
661-257-8124 ext. 111

[beerbelly]

That is fantastic customer service, and also valuable info to know about the ARP changeover timing. Glad it worked out well for you.

[Luva65wagon]

Is it gonna make it to Maltby this weekend? I hope so!

[BadBird]

I replaced the one broken stud, started it up. No noise is good noise. I will be taking it out for a drive tomorrow if it isn't raining.
I will be replacing all the studs when I get the set that Air Flow Research is sending me. Want to get that done before I take the car to the national meet in Sacramento in July and especially before we take it to Arizona for several shows and drag racing in Phoenix and Tucson in September.
More to come I would imagine. Larry

[BadBird]

While Carol and I were in Tucson, I had an extra rear trim piece polished. The one on my car was not looking great. I finished applying pin striping tape and then clear coated it. It is now installed and looks better than the other one. Here are a couple of pics. Larry

[dhbfaster]

Looks really nice Larry. Are those stainless or aluminum?

[BadBird]

Don, the part is aluminum and they did a great job of polishing it. Larry

[BillP 98201]

Very nice Larry!

[Luva65wagon]

Looks really nice Larry. Good work.

[BadBird]

I will start a new post since this car is history. I did get some information from the guy in Syracuse who bought the car from me. Pictures are looking great and he is showing it. I am very much looking for a 63 hardtop to start a new project. I was perusing the face book page, nice. Hope everyone is well and having a great but weird year. Larry

[Luva65wagon]

Hey Larry - Good to hear from you. Weird year is hardly going to cover explaining it, but it is what it is. Making as much lemonade as possible!

Scott Zimmerman just dug a 63 "t-bird roof style" Falcon out of a garage up past Snoqualmie, so that's a perfect project car with minimal rust. I think he posted it on the Facebook page as well. Hardtops are getting hard to find in project shape, but I'll keep an eye out for you as well.

[Gitanesteel]

I will start a new post since this car is history. I did get some information from the guy in Syracuse who bought the car from me. Pictures are looking great and he is showing it. I am very much looking for a 63 hardtop to start a new project. I was perusing the face book page, nice. Hope everyone is well and having a great but weird year. Larry

I see it posted every once in awhile on a couple of the Falcon Facebook pages - such a sweet car.


Hey Larry - Good to hear from you. Weird year is hardly going to cover explaining it, but it is what it is. Making as much lemonade as possible!

Scott Zimmerman just dug a 63 "t-bird roof style" Falcon out of a garage up past Snoqualmie, so that's a perfect project car with minimal rust. I think he posted it on the Facebook page as well. Hardtops are getting hard to find in project shape, but I'll keep an eye out for you as well.

Yep, if interested Larry send me a private message. It's a 63 2 door sedan with the T-bird style roof as Roger mentioned. Hardtops weren't until a little later that year. It's a base model with the 144 6 cyl and pretty solid as it's been stored indoor for probably 20 yrs on a concrete floor. The only rust I saw needing replacement, or patching, was the drivers floor pan. Quarters and rockers look very good. Everything appears to be original except for the poor baby blue paint over the original Corinthian White. Looking up the vehicles weight yesterday they were between 2300-2400 lbs. It would make a great project car.

[Luva65wagon]

Yep, if interested Larry send me a private message. It's a 64 2 door sedan with the T-bird style roof as Roger mentioned.

Larry, Scott... it's a 63 to add a correction for you Scott.

[Gitanesteel]

Yep, 63. Corrected - clearly I didn't proof read my post