'62 Falcon Refresh

[Luva65wagon]

Like black engines. Smart move. What are you using for the engine bay. I found Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black is a very good paint, cheap, and durable. Close to original... though most pre-64 Falcons had body color under the hood. I like the satin black.

[dkutz]

Like black engines. Smart move. What are you using for the engine bay. I found Rustoleum 7777 Satin Black is a very good paint, cheap, and durable. Close to original... though most pre-64 Falcons had body color under the hood. I like the satin black.

Roger, this is a late 62, and was painted black from the factory. I am pulling from my Mustang restoration bag. The paint for the engine bay is krylon 1613. It WAS the go to for years on mustangs, but then they changed the formula. HOWEVER it was discovered they still made the original in their industrial line, so that is what I used. (Note the photo above is black primer). Just the right sheen.

[Luva65wagon]

I used to use Krylon a lot; for years, but found it wasn't all that durable. I then stumbled onto the 7777 Rustoleum, which has never needed a primer (just clean surfaces) and is durable as heck. Seems, I found, if the paint took forever to dry it was a more durable finish than anything I tried claiming fast dry. Not sure if the 1613 was their fast-dry semi-gloss black I used back then, but I painted my entire Ranchero in 7777 satin black and other than some scuff marks from sitting under a tarp for a couple years (waiting for my garage to be built) it's held up really well.

Just putting this out as my personal observation.

I'll have to adjust my knowledge on under hood paint. I thought '62's had body color. Live and learn.

[dkutz]

Any tips on valve adjustment on the 144ci? Never done it before...

[Luva65wagon]

More than likely solid lifters, so you have to get a cold adjustment done first to start it; basically rotating the motor to where both valve on one cylinder is at top dead center compression stroke and adjust the valve to a couple thousands of the hot setting (larger gap by a couple thou). Then once started you adjust them once the engine is at temp to the specification.

And for what it's worth... there are more people here than me and I have no idea why I'm the only one replying... other than to say I'm the one who seems to be the one replying the most, historically.

[dkutz]

And for what it's worth... there are more people here than me and I have no idea why I'm the only one replying... other than to say I'm the one who seems to be the one replying the most, historically.

Just not an interesting thread for most... oh well.

[Luva65wagon]

I don't believe that's the case. It's been a weird year and some of us have taken the time at home and done work on projects - my Ranchero is only one of about 20 fairly big projects I've worked on this year - and some have been focusing on just surviving; searching for toilet paper, etc., etc. Some have focused their attention towards other more active social media platforms; like, Facebook, etc. to get those "likes." I used to only have time for this forum, but now I'm posting in multiple places. Some just no longer have their cars anymore; those who used to be very active here.

Some just say, "That's a question for Roger..."

[dhbfaster]

We feel ya...
I think if I were to go back and read my threads... the number of went down over time...as I seemed to just expect the setbacks, enjoy the challenges and I always knew the club was there to share them with - with no judgement and usually help if needed- in my case mostly just rookie mistakes on my part.
It’s all part of the journey. Most everything takes twice as long as it should. I think I had one door panel off five times.

[dkutz]

Latest video update, engine install, and some of my obstacles. Hopefully it will be back in road this week!
https://youtu.be/mk7DlYAHCeQ

https://youtu.be/mk7DlYAHCeQ

[Luva65wagon]

Looking really good! Great to see it coming together.

[dkutz]

I ordered a new release bearing for the tranny while everything was apart. But i only bought the bearing not the release bearing hub bracket.. I now see that they are attached. Can i replace jus the bearing or should I ordered one with bracket and bearing attached.?

[Luva65wagon]

It's pressed into the hub (bracket) and may be a pain to get apart. If you have a press or a good vise and can create a receiving cup and a piece fit to press out the hub, you might get it apart and back together. Honestly, even though I could make all of this happen I'd still, personally, probably get the complete part if it's available.

[Falcongek]

I just read your thread. Very recognizable.
I struggled with a cracked block. Took the engine out 3 times, before we noticed the tiny rust trail...

Uncertain if this is against forum rules, if so please remove mods:
I found the inline six forum very good for timing and other engine related stuff. The old classic inlines website had tons of tech info, including how to set youre valves, the tech section was carried over to the new website of the new owner (https://fordsix.com/ci/Tech.html).

Good luck,

Rinke

[dkutz]

Just got Bob back from trans shop. They fabricated a longer rod for the piece that connect the zbar and pushes the throw out fork. It’s better now, and at least driveable. Still not perfect, it I suspect once the clutch wears a little it will be even better. He seems to think the clutch I picked is too thick. Whatever, at least I can drive it

[Luva65wagon]

Hopefully they didn't just mask a deeper issue as I mentioned long ago (uneven pressure plate release). That will cause the clutch disc to wear really quick. You should have had more than enough adjustment at the z-bar assuming you had a stock clutch rod at the transmission. Maybe you didn't. But it is true as the clutch wears it will require adjustment in the direction you have available. Hope it works out well for you no matter what.