Saving Granddad's Falcon

[dhbfaster]

Hi Dennis!
Sorry to take so long to reply...life has been crazy lately with a funeral and work- I helped sell my employer...but the good news is I should be back home and to the falcon this fall.
Yes, it’s a heat barrier tape. I’m pretty sure I bought it at Autozone. The original gas tank had an indentation for the muffler but it was around $250 more to buy one with that indentation. So, I went with the cheaper tank only to find out the muffler didn’t fit. So, the muffler is also smaller- and I put the heat tape on there as an added measure.

[dhbfaster]

Got the muffler hangers done today. The picture doesn’t do it justice- makes it look a bit warped, but the guy did a great job. Nice rubber bushings up top and strong enough to hang on- and it’s not going to bump the gas tank any more.

[dhbfaster]

Got my tickets back home guys...I’m going to have to visit back and forth now and then for the next few month but it sure will be nice to be home.
Anyone know where to find the summer show schedule??
It would be nice to tidy up the last few things and show off all the work we did at least once or twice.
Where is our falcon regional this year?

[Luva65wagon]

I'm sure it'll be good to be home. Hopefully we have decent enough weather soon to drive our cars around a bit.

I use this schedule, which is pretty complete:

http://www.cruzinmag.com/calendar.html

We'll have a meeting on March 20 and maybe we can do an early spring cruise somewhere after that. I've not heard anything about a mini this year, but it's probably coming back round to us again... should we decide to.

[dhbfaster]

Wow, that’s a huge list! Any thoughts on the best local shows for mine other than our falcon specific shows?
Definitely looking forward to a little club cruise to catch up with you guys again...weather permitting of course.

[Luva65wagon]

We ought to go have a little snow cruise. That would be fun.

Cruzin's list is long, but not so bad if you weed out the non-local events.

[dhbfaster]

Update: I felt I needed to get a better handle on how good the spark is, because it seemed kind of weak. So, i bought one of these spark testers:
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ster/10257_0_0

This thing worked great. I found the spark weak and in some cases almost non-existent and intermittent.
So, most of the ignition stuff was new as of three years ago except for the coil. I took it off and inside the main contact point where the cable hooks it to the distributor- it was awful...this might have been the original coil and one of the only parts I didn’t replace. So, I set out to buy a coil, condenser and set of points. So, which coil to buy...long story short, I ended up giving a nod to my late father in law and bought an MSD coil. Bought everything from Advanced auto parts...but the points have to be delivered. (I plan to convert to Pertronix,but I wanted to confirm what the problem was first and figured I should have an extra set anyway.) I was able to pick up the coil and condenser. I got home, took out the new coil and read the directions...and what? I need to add a ballast resistor. What a pain! But I resolved myself to that and will order that tomorrow. So, what the heck, I replaced the condenser and put the old coil back on...which is when I noticed how bad the contact was. Worked on that a bit...
Engine started right up. That’s the good news...

The bad news..Now every time I try to start the engine, the first time the starter just spins...it doesn’t engage until i turn the key off at which time it seems to bang on the flywheel and stop. Then I try again and it works perfectly and starts right up. After a rest...this scenario repeat two more times! Why this pattern?

So, I looked in the shop manual...and it says, “the drive engagement holding coil contacts have failed.”
Would this be inside the starter?
If so, why is it failing only on first try and not the second?
I’m surprised at this...I had the starter rebuilt at a local shop when I rebuilt the car (which has 312 miles now). I would have thought this would have been part of the starter rebuild?

Appreciate any advice on this one...

[Luva65wagon]

Update: I felt I needed to get a better handle on how good the spark is, because it seemed kind of weak. So, i bought one of these spark testers:
https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-a...ster/10257_0_0

This thing worked great. I found the spark weak and in some cases almost non-existent and intermittent.
So, most of the ignition stuff was new as of three years ago except for the coil. I took it off and inside the main contact point where the cable hooks it to the distributor- it was awful...this might have been the original coil and one of the only parts I didn’t replace. So, I set out to buy a coil, condenser and set of points. So, which coil to buy...long story short, I ended up giving a nod to my late father in law and bought an MSD coil. Bought everything from Advanced auto parts...but the points have to be delivered. (I plan to convert to Pertronix,but I wanted to confirm what the problem was first and figured I should have an extra set anyway.) I was able to pick up the coil and condenser. I got home, took out the new coil and read the directions...and what? I need to add a ballast resistor. What a pain!

You do not need a ballast resistor. Fords use a resistor wire to do the same thing since the Ford coil needs the same "ballast resistor" function (lowering the voltage from; like, 12 to 9 volts. Most oil filled coils don't like 12v for long so they use the ballast resistor, or in Fords, a resistance wire to achieve this.

When you go to a Pertronix the coil will still want the resistance wire, but the Pertronix will want the 12 volts, so when you get to this point (highly recommend) you will find a wire on the back of the ignition switch with a bullet connector within a couple inches from the switch. The pink resistance wire plugs into this connector and runs only to the bulkhead connector. From there it tee's off into two wires on the engine side and one wire goes to the + coil terminal and the other to the "I" terminal on the solenoid. So, what this does is this: When you are cranking the engine over the solenoid is both turning over the starter and sending 12 volts out the "I" terminal. It sends the 12 volts up to the firewall bulkhead connector, which then allows the voltage to also go down to the coil. Meaning 12 Volts at the coil on cranking. When the car starts and the key is in the run position you get 12 volts out the ignition switch and it then hits that pink resistance wire and by the time it reaches the firewall it is now about 9 volts. So, I make a "T" connector to plug into that bullet connector at the ignition switch to add a new wire at the 12 volt end and run this wire out to the Pertronix. When you get to this point, we can hopefully arrange an assist.

But I resolved myself to that and will order that tomorrow. So, what the heck, I replaced the condenser and put the old coil back on...which is when I noticed how bad the contact was. Worked on that a bit...
Engine started right up. That’s the good news...

May have been the condenser or the yucky coil. Since you don't need to order a ballast resistor now, maybe put the MSD coil on just to get it over with. You should also check the point gap too, and make sure those contacts are clean and not pitted. EVEN after getting a new point set, clean the contacts well with Acetone or similar before installing and setting the gap.

The bad news..Now every time I try to start the engine, the first time the starter just spins...it doesn’t engage until i turn the key off at which time it seems to bang on the flywheel and stop. Then I try again and it works perfectly and starts right up. After a rest...this scenario repeat two more times! Why this pattern?

Not sure I understand the pattern. So, if you try to start it there is just a spinning sound of the starter motor, but the engine doesn't turn over... but when you release the key it sounds like the bendix engages? And the "two more times" is exactly this pattern, but starts on the 3rd try?

So, I looked in the shop manual...and it says, “the drive engagement holding coil contacts have failed.”
Would this be inside the starter?

Ford uses a retractable Bendix that is magnetically driven (most cars do, but do it sometimes with the solenoid being on the starter and being the magnetic part as well). So When you turn the key to START the solenoid sends 12 volts to the starter, which causes a magnetic field to be created. This field pulls a core downward that also pushes the Bendix out into the flywheel to engage the teeth. At the end of the travel of all this magnetic motion is the final switch contacts (you mention) inside the starter that connect 12 volts now, also, to start the starter spinning. The starter should NOT spin until the Bendix (the part with the teeth engaging the flywheel teeth) is fully engaged to the flywheel. If you are hearing spinning of the starter, but no spinning of the engine - it is the Bendix failing - either to engage the flywheel or its internals to stay firm and rotate the engine. They are designed to "kick back out of the flywheel teeth" when the engine starts since you don't want the Bendix to remain engaged with the flywheel with the engine running.

If so, why is it failing only on first try and not the second?
I’m surprised at this...I had the starter rebuilt at a local shop when I rebuilt the car (which has 312 miles now). I would have thought this would have been part of the starter rebuild?

Appreciate any advice on this one...

I'd resolve the points/condenser/new coil and get that all cleared up. Then see if this issue remains. I may have to hear it over a phone call to get a better sense of the sequence. Roger

[dhbfaster]

Well...Got the wire plugged in, got the starter installed, and adjusted the timing...it starts and runs. Didn’t get much chance to play with it yet though. Need to try it and see how it starts up cold.

[dhbfaster]

Well, I couldn’t get the hoses to the fram fuel filter I had, so I put on a new Delco filter with new hose. Ran great, including a trip around the block. So, I decided to drive it to work today. About the time I got to highway 99 it was acting fuel starved. My gage was close to the lower dot (I can’t remember if the lower dot means 1/4 tank or empty...but I was able to get into a gas station and I put 5 gallons in. It started fine...then same problem and it started to get worse...I got turned around and headed for home and barely got it off the main drag. I didn’t find anything loose or obviously wrong. Roger, I tried to call you but I imagine you didn’t recognize my number since it’s been a while.
I did change the oil last weekend...all that still looks good. The only thing changes other than that was the fuel filter. I did double check and the directional arrow was going the correct direction.
So..I ended up calling AAA to get me home. Those guys were great.
I have to say, all of this still beat working. I still want the check so I’m back at work now (obviously working hard). If anyone has any other ideas of what to check let me know. It doesn’t really make sense that this a problem with the fuel filter other than it’s the only thing I know I changed.

[Luva65wagon]

Don and I chatted today and he's going to look at a few things, like points and voltages. Seems to be squirting fuel via accelerator pump, and the fuel pump is filling up a cup fairly quickly. So hopefully he finds it - otherwise I might visit... masked up.

[dhbfaster]

Nice! I found a nice 10-32 screw at a lumber store in Burien...stuck it in there to see how much I’d have to open up that hole. Went right in...Screwed in perfectly and snugged right up.
I have no idea how the 8-32 was holding at all because it had to have been the wrong size...or maybe the falcon angels were watching And tapped it for me Friday night. It’s so solid though...I’m not asking any more questions...just taking this as a win. Then I worked on the sliding surface of that choke “banana”...works pretty smooth now. Carb done! On to the installation of the Pertronix, no need for the bit, tap or gasket material now.
(Meanwhile the starter is off and waiting for the new one. )
No need for a special trip on the wire if you can get it in the mail.
I’ll work on gettin the pertronix in the distributor and ready to go, and get the routing for the wire all set up.

[Luva65wagon]

on the carburetor!

I'll keep the wire with me today, just in case, but at the very least I'll mail it off.

[dhbfaster]

I finally got an afternoon to work on the falcon!
I’m trying to finish off the trunk. I’m stuck on two points:

Wiring- Can anyone give me a picture of How the wiring runs and clips between the tail lights? I have the original wire harness and clips, but for some reason it’s not obvious where they were clipped on before.

Jack- I got a nice restored jack a while back. Does anyone have a picture of exactly where the jack mounts under the spare tire in the trunk?

[dhbfaster]

Ok, found the place to pay the dues! My wife is in charge of PayPal and already gone for the holidays ... but I asked Siri to remind me next week.