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Thread: Saving Granddad's Falcon

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  1. #1
    I guess I got off easy. I was just a little tired when I got home! Glad everyone is feeling better.

    I can't make it this weekend but can come over in April. I'll work on whatever still needs to be done. I always just scrape the silicone off with a razor and it comes off clean but that's usually on pans that have been running for a few years. Yours was fresh so it was probably stuck pretty tight.

    Kenny Likins
    Ballard, Seattle, WA
    www.redfalken.com

    `62 Tudor Sedan (`69 200, C4, 8-inch 4-lug 2.79 rearend, Duraspark II, MSD, Weber 32/36 DGEV)

  2. #2
    Don,

    I'm not really concerned whether it will run or not - and neither should you be. You used a reputable builder and these are some of the most basic engines, it would be odd to have problems...

    oh wait, we had problems...

    OK, aside from my lack the day we put the pan on of not having a tool to spin the pump that day, I think that will be the only thing we left with any doubt that day.

    I'm thinking the April date is best. I'm better, but I'm not 100% by any means. It comes and goes. Last night I thought I was succumbing again and today is like... uhh...

    So do the things you can. Leave the pan off. I'll check the pump again with it off one-last-time and then we'll put the pan on. We only have to stab the distributor after finding top dead center, run a jumper to the coil to start it, add some gas... and VROOOOOM! Or maybe that's VROOM.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Sounds like a plan Roger...we'll save the pan install and startup for April 9th.
    I hope you can get some rest this weekend. Gene- I hope you can make it on the 9th. Looks like Roger, Kenny, Larry will be there...and open to other club members that want to learn about startup.

    Larry, if you want to get out for a few hours and help me knock out the last two brake lines or doors this Saturday morning...I'd love to have you but no rush.
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Got the tail light connectors fixed and hooked up tonight and started to checkout the electrical system connections. Headlights, tail lights, dash lights, and parking lights work fine (I can't test the brake lights or turn signals yet) but I didn't see how to get the dome light on. I'll check the bulb tonight. When is the dome light supposed to come on? Should it come on when the key is put on ACC? Is there supposed to be a door switch? It looks like there is a hole for a door switch, but no switch there. I didn't see a wire there for a switch and I'll have to take off the kick panel to try and find it if that's the case.
    I finished the restoration of the clips for the harness in the engine compartment. Should be able to get those on this weekend.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Fredrickson
    Posts
    977
    Don, I don't have my dome light installed/working yet, but I believe it should come on by rotating the headlight switch fully CCW (past a detent).The holes are for switches. My car had them.


    Gene Smith
    Fredrickson, WA
    '65 Ranchero Deluxe
    302, EFI, 4-Spd
    Granada Discs

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Thanks Gene, that's what I was expecting actually- but I didn't seem to ever get to a detent. I'll try that again tonight.
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  7. #7
    Gene beat me to it, but yep, that's how you do it without door switches. Those are pretty easy to add, by the way. Just need to pop in the switches. In fact I think I may have the harness. But I've said that sort of thing before to only discover I already gave it away. If I ever run across it, it may be something you can consider.

    You asked elsewhere about rust in the cylinders if you don't get it started soon. Inside a garage I wouldn't be too concerned in the span of a few months, but if years went by it is never a bad idea to fog the cylinders and crank the motor over a few times - even by hand. I'd probably be less concerned with a new motor over one that was previously running. A new motor, if assembled correctly with a boat-load of assembly lube, which is ultra clingy stuff, is more apt to resist rusting than a previously running motor where gas has pretty much washed away most of the oils off the walls of the cylinders.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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