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Thread: It's the wife's fault!!!

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  1. #1
    Roger,
    The shaft you sent me. Is the first shaft I've ever seen that had copper bushings in every rocker.. very odd. Even odder is they were out of specs.

    I don't get it. I got an assembly from PhilC next. It was looking awesome until I got to cylinder 3 exhaust rocker and it scored the shaft and rocker really bad. The shaft was perfect except for 2 cylinders.. how do two cylinders wear, but everything else is good?

    So I bought the nos fomoco shaft off ebay from a guy in coos bay, OR. For $30.

    Using the best 12 rockers I built myself an assembly. Bolted to the car, adjusted valves, did a compression test, fired it up and my knock or noise was still there.

    The wife looks up the stock spark plug number, cross-references it to an autolite plug and tells me I have a colder plug in there.. I was running a autolite 45. She says try a 46 like its supposed to have.

    Guess what? A change of plugs later and the noise appears to be gone..

    Hmm..
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Nathan289 View Post
    The wife looks up the stock spark plug number, cross-references it to an autolite plug and tells me I have a colder plug in there.. I was running a autolite 45. She says try a 46 like its supposed to have.

    Guess what? A change of plugs later and the noise appears to be gone..
    Hmm..
    I really am impressed that your wife thought to check that you had correct spark plugs.

    It is surprising that a colder plug would cause a knocking sound, but if the noise went away you received a surprise success.

    I need to have your wife look at my car and tell me if anything needs to be changed.
    Last edited by ew1usnr; October 12th, 2014 at 05:46 AM.
    Dennis Pierson
    Tampa, FL
    "The Wonder Falcon"

    '63 Futura Hardtop (260, Ford-O-Matic, bench seat)

  3. #3
    Colder plugs shouldn't make it knock or detonate, so I don't get it.
    Maybe something in the engine was hitting the plugs or plug, but I don't see evidence of that.
    Maybe the colder plug was fouling at idle causing a miss that was causing a noise?

    Only other thought is bad gas, but I didn't change that till after the noise went away.

    Right now the wife is shopping for a plasma cutter..

    Ebay has some really cheap 3&1 plasma cutter, mig and mms welder all built in one. Probably not a good buy, but its tempting.
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  4. #4
    Noise is back...

    I don't know. I went through and retorqued everything I could on the outside of the motor..

    I'm thinking possibly the distributor, as the end shaft play is really excessive.
    End shaft play is supposed to be leas than .008 mine is .020

    When I move the shaft up and down it makes a similar noise as my engine noise.

    I'll order a rebuilt distributor and maybe drop the oil pan and check the mains and rods..

    Otherwise I don't know.. maybe flywheel bolts next
    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  5. #5
    Nathan, You can't take a long dowel rod and use it as the listening rod and probe around while the motor is running to zero-in on the approximate location? Is the noise RPM related? High-pitched, low-pitched?
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  6. #6
    Roger,

    Noise is rpm related. Only does it at idle and not every time.
    Killing cylinders doesn't make it worse nor better. So I can't isolate it to one cylinder.

    Raise rpms and it goes away.

    I've removed fuel pump and its still there.
    I removed valve cover and it doesn't sound as loud. (not that loud to begin with)

    Best I've been able to do is narrow it down to the block area between distributor and fuel pump.

    Its a real light knocking noise, almost a rattle.. with the distributor out of the car, if I pull up and down on the shaft it makes a similar noise..


    I just thought of something.. the car had a newer oil, pan on it.. I wonder if the crank is knocking the oil pump pickup screen.. maybe the old pan got crushed..

    I didn't check oil pump to crank clearance, I spun the engine by hand before install and didn't notice anything..

    It doesn't explain why it went away with a change of plugs though..


    Nathan and Jen Cooper
    63 Sprint Hardtop "Dollora"
    63 Super deluxe squire wagon "Mayble"
    * this spot is vacant for future project*

  7. #7
    Using a long dowel (local home center) about 1/2" in diameter held up against the motor in various places, and then the other end pressed against your (closed) ear acts as a stethoscope. I've pinpointed almost exactly where noises emanated from using this method - assuming you can access them without catching a belt or fan blade. I can't imagine it being a crank-induced knock against an oil pump. There is a lot of clearance there, typically.

    I assume this has a new timing chain and gears? Chain slap again the timing cover has caused RPM related noises, but only if the chain and gears are old and flapping about.

    The distributor gear, with its helical cut gears, will get forced in one direction - and stay there, so I'd also doubt that to be a cause for a noise you could hear. Are you running points/condenser or Pertronix? Wasn't this a new distributor too?
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



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