Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

[ew1usnr]

Here is my updated configuration. The brake lines attach directly to the master cylinder and the only pipe thread is for the hydraulic brake light switch.
master cylinder.JPG

The owner of the Meineke car care center near my house used a hand-held hydraulic press to make the flare in my brake lines, and he did it for free! He's a good guy.

Tube Nuts and Flares.JPG

Here is my final parts list for the conversion:
From NAPA auto parts:
Part Number M2036 New 1967 Ford Mustang Master Cylinder, $63.49
Part Number SL134 Stoplight Switch, 1/8-NPT, 27 threads per inch, $8.99
Part Number 641-3296, Brake Fit Tube Nut, $0.69
Part Number 641-3322, Brake Fit Tube Nut, $0.69

From O’Reilly auto parts.
Part Number PA-308, 8” x 3/16” brake line with a fitting on each end (2 X $4.99), $8.98
Part Number 130333, 3/16” Union Tee (3/16" fitting has 3/8" - 24 threads), $5.99

From e-bay:
Part Number: ALL50137, AllStar Performance 3/16" Inverted Female Brass Tee Brass with a 1/8” NPT gauge port, $8.49 + free postage
Grand Total: $88.83.

Trivia: I used a bathroom scale and found that the 1967 Mustang master cylinder weighs 5.2 lbs.

The clerk told me that it was actually less expensive for me to buy a new rather than a reconditioned master cylinder because I did not have an old master cylinder to turn it for the core fee. NAPA Master Cylinder for 1967 Mustang with manual brakes: http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Brake-Master-Cylinder-New/_/R-NMAM2036_0358750724

“Beginning in 1967, Ford went to the federally mandated dual braking system, which provides braking pressure should the front or rear system fail. This is a dual reservoir master cylinder, with separate reservoirs feeding master cylinder bores positioned in tandem. Stepping on the brake pedal pressurizes separate front and rear brake systems.”
See: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar.../photo_03.html

[pbrown]

Nice work so far.

“Beginning in 1967, Ford went to the federally mandated dual braking system, which provides braking pressure should the front or rear system fail. This is a dual reservoir master cylinder, with separate reservoirs feeding master cylinder bores positioned in tandem. Stepping on the brake pedal pressurizes separate front and rear brake systems.”
See: http://www.mustangmonthly.com/techar.../photo_03.html

I'm always amazed at all the car technologies that we have because the government pressed the issue. Disk brakes, fuel injection, dual circuit master, air bags, seat belts.

[ew1usnr]

For several reasons, I wimped out and let my local Meineke shop install the dual master cylinder.

A 1967 master cylinder in a 1963 Falcon. Fifty years ago, this would have been "The Falcon of the Future, .... Today!" My Futura is now (or would have been) truly Futuristic! Notice the curly bends in the brake lines:
dual cylinder.jpg

Lines off dual cylinder:
lines off dual cylinder.jpg

Meineke said that they ran into a problem (without problems things would be too easy). The existing brake lines were not fitting correctly because the nuts were rounded and the flares were old. When they trimmed the ends to add new flares and nuts, the lines were not long enough. They used a pair of flared adapters to graft new lengths of brake line onto the existing lines. See the brass-colored fitting on the right front brake line in the picture:
top coupling.jpg

Here is a close up of that fitting:
top coupling close-up.jpg

They also added a coupling to the brake line going to the rear:
lower coupling.jpg

My engine and engine compartment are all dusty from the car being sanded while it was at the paint shop. I will wash them with a wet sponge this weekend and try to clean them up.

[Jeff W]

I should have mentioned that part. We used a few of those double flair couplers on installations as well. Same reason... Kenny had forgotten his brake line lengthening tool so we made do

Nice work and thank you

[Luva65wagon]

I for one can not over stress the need to have good, trustworthy brakes, so this is a good first step. I would have though, had I had what they had at their disposal (a rack), run a new line all the way to the back and to the passenger wheel. We're talking less that 15' of line. Extra joints I'm not a fan of. These steel lines after 50 years are sure to be less than pretty internally and externally, since brake fluid is both corrosive and collects moisture. Anyway, something to consider. I did both my wagon and Ranchero - just because. Watch them closely. If you see any seepage, buy a coil of 3/16" brake line(in bulk) and have these replaced.

Or drive it up here and we'll make it a tech day!

[ew1usnr]

... run a new line all the way to the back and to the passenger wheel.

I agree, Roger. From the mechanic's perspective, I asked him to replace the master cylinder and that is what he tried to limit the job to. Customers can sometimes freak out if a mechanic replaces a lot more than the customer originally asked for.

My brakes are in great shape now with new shoes, drums, wheel cylinders, and now a master cylinder. I will change the brake lines (maybe with stainless steel?) whenever the brakes need to be redone again.

But, I will never need to re-do the brakes unless I start driving the car and racking up some mileage! Everything seems to be fixed now (knock on wood), so my goal is to add at least 5,000 miles to the odometer this year. Adding 10,000 would really make me happy.

1-Pear Harbor II.jpg

[Luva65wagon]

Attached image

It's too late...