Dual Master Cylinder Conversion

**dhbfaster** · July 22nd, 2014, 08:33 AM

Whew...just pounded through all these threads. Roger....any more thoughts about that finalized updated pdf you mentioned below...??

I'm hoping to finally have the rear axle done soon and need to order some brake line, fittings and the cutting and flare tools. I figured it would be a good place to start with new line, fittings and bending since it's all up on the bench now-and everything else on the brake system is bran new. Then...work my way forward as things progress. BUT...so many options just on brake line.

Any comments on what kind of brake line to buy if I'm going to replace all the brake lines?
It seems like standard steel brake line is just fine? But some is soft, some hard, some copper nickel coated, some more flexible, also ebay options...and I'm seeing the Eastwood flaring tool is really expensive- and on the other hand I see super cheap ones. I assume there is a good one in the middle? Appreciate any advice.

**Luva65wagon** · July 22nd, 2014, 02:05 PM

Originally Posted by dhbfaster

any more thoughts about that finalized updated pdf you mentioned...??

I know, probably would be a good idea. RSN (Real Soon Now).

I'm not sure what to offer on the line, other than my experience. I order 25-50' spools of standard steel line from Napa and make up all mine that way, but there are advantages to SS and the other new coated lines. Just have no experience with them - though I have tried making a new flare on the coated. It didn't work out right using the standard double flaring tool. Probably wants the high-end flaring tool to do it right. The standard steel line will eventually rust away like the original, but I'll be long gone by then.

I assume you are just doing a standard single-to-dual conversion. No discs. If so, with the early brake light switch being hydraulic, this is the only variation between the two systems (pre and post 64). On pre-64 most convert to mechanical switch inside the car by either adapting to the '65 style switch or removing the rubber stop for the brake pedal and putting a switch in its place. Either way works, though the '65 switch requires a '65 pedal or a modified bolt to hook the switch and M/C rod onto. That's what I did to my Ranchero. Finding the '65 pedal would have been easier in hind-sight. You can also retain the hydraulic switch, but it will require an 1/8" pipe thread (female to female) coupler and a tee (1/8" NPT and two 3/16" inverted flare) to utilize it.

It's really pretty simple and as a club we're willing to help. Just arrange a tech day.