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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Really appreciate your input and I think I'm going with it on the ring and pinion-especially since nobody sells a replacement(!). Now what about these bearings? (pics attached.)
    They look worse than the ring to me... and this whole thing is on the bench at this point, there is the risk I could screw it up, but I figure I"m this deep I might as well get through it and replace them and the pinion seal was leaking like crazy so I have to get into that end anyway to replace the seal. Thoughts? I'd love for someone to tell me I'm crazy- save my money, but I don't ever want to take this thing out again. 50 years, 1000 miles/year is all i want out of it...all input most appreciated.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    I would keep the ring set and replace the bearing and race.

    Consider the axle bearings as long as it's all out and easy to get at.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

  3. #3
    You're getting far more noise from those that one bearing alone than you would from the ring gear (of what I've seen anyway).

    Bearings and seals are readily available, I'm sure, so for sure do all the bearings and seals and it'll last you a long time. Those 7.25" rear-ends show up a lot used, so chances are you'll find a ring gear in the future if it's ever an issue.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906
    Thanks everyone. Al the other bearings were about like that one. I bought the full set of bearings and seals today. The guy at west coast differentials (Ed) was very helpful (and actually replied to emails) and he gave confident advice and said the same thing you guys said. The total price was the best too. Www.differentials.com Now I just need time to get it done.
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Federal Way
    Posts
    906

    Quick questions- ring around the yoke and axle bearings

    Most respeced Advisors...

    Please see the attached pic of the yoke on my diffy...it's the wrong angle to see what I'm talking about but that collar on there is just kind of dangling on there with lots of room to bounce around (I'm surprised it didn't wound like a tin can)...I can't really tell what the purpose is- I would think it is to protect the oil seal. Any recomendations on whether or not I should basically glue this to the oil seal or diffy housing after I reinstall?

    Also on the Axle bearings...I haven't replaced them yet, but when I do, should I also put sealer (or even loctite?) around the bearings themselves? (I see the recomendations to put sealer around the oil seals...I don't see anything about the bearings) It looks like there has been some water leakage around mine leaving a bit of "wet" rust in there when I pulled them out- and it seems like they came out pretty easily. That said, I didn't see any evidence they were spinning....but I'm a little worried they might spin if I clean up the light layer of rust even slightly.

    Meanwhile...got the carrier and the pinion bearings all off. (My harbor freight bearing removal kit barely survived...but it got the job done.) Waiting for the new axle bearings and seals before I take those off...I was sent the ones for the wagon by mistake.

    Advice most appreciated as always!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Don Bartlett
    Federal Way, WA
    61 Four Door Sedan
    144-6, 3 on the tree



  6. #6
    Never seen such a thing myself. Should be more obvious the purpose, if any, after you pull the yoke.

    As for wheel bearings - generally nothing is needed or recommended. The bearings are more prone to spin, as bearings, than the outer race will in the housing. The weight of the vehicle also impedes any tendency to spin. Only way it would would be catastrophic bearing failure, which would likely also show up as load noises long before.

    Most likely the reason for any rust is just due to condensation or bad backing plate gaskets and going through puddles. Clean it all up and just lube the seal and polish the axle to seal surface of any surface rust too.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
    Posts
    2,117
    You are correct it's to keep crud from ruining your seal. Leave her be.
    Do not use anything on the bearings that would be bad but you could put some RTV around the seal area before you press then in. Couldn't hurt but I usually just tap them in with a hammer.
    Bring it all over here quick and we'll make it purdy black like genes pedals and Gina's engine pieces in the cheap powder cot thread.
    Hope that helps and I'm sure others will give you there procedure too. Keep at it only 5 months till show season.
    63 Sedan Delivery
    5.0 HO EFI AOD 8" rear

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430
    One of mine had that protective collar but it was tight and not jiggling around. I think I would figure out a way to secure it... maybe a couple of tack welds with your new wire feed.

    Jeff Watson
    Seattle, WA
    '63 Tudor Wagon (170 - 3 spd.)

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