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  1. #1
    Nice work Jeff. Such dedication in the cold out-of-doors!

    Question about the gas cap. Where did you get it and was the bracket you welded in something that came with - or did you have to cut it out from a donor car? Do you have any pictures of the underside connected to the tank? Rick's site (you link'd to elsewhere) seems to indicate he cut it out using tin-snips or something and they have two height versions. Maybe you have a few more pictures of it you can post?

    Gracias.
    Roger Moore

    63 "Flarechero"
    powered by: 347ci stroker | Tremec T5 | 8" 3:45 TracLoc rear



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sequim
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    2,117
    Very nice Jeff; I am jealous. Can't wait to see if mine looks as good. It reminds me of how much work I still have ahead of me???

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430

    Wind lace

    I don't care for the look of the factory cloth covered wind-lace. This glue is stinky but we don't have the correct foot for our sewing machine to "stitch the ditch".

    Tape it down; the drying contact adhesive causes the material to curl and stick to itself.

    I made 18 feet of it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Jeff W; February 6th, 2011 at 12:23 PM. Reason: added picture

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430

    Door Handle conversion

    The 1960-63 door handles are $130 for a replacement set. The 1964-65 Falcon (and I've heard Mustang which explains the lower cost) are $30 brand new.

    It took about one hour to modify the newer handles to work on my '63.

    1) Calculate where the new mounting hole is needed and drill. I was conservative with the initial hole and used a small file to sneak up on the correct position as I wanted to leave as much "meat" between the new and the old holes. My pencil point is touching fairly close to the correct hole placement, notice the difference in hole orientation between the two handles in that same picture.

    2) The old button and guts were relocated to the new handle. I think I could make some sort of extension to the new button actuator "peg" and use the new chrome button. The chrome on my old buttons were okay so I didn't take the time.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430

    Tailgate Badge Emblem

    Took the plastic window out of my best tailgate badge and repainted the colors. Thanks Steve for providing my best badge... the junk car that keeps on giving.

    It was easy as all of the old paint was missing... not just faded. Where does it go?

    First paint the entire back in gold and wipe off with lacquer thinner so gold only lives in the embossed area. A steady hand and a small brush gets the other colors (Black, Blue and Red) where they need to be. Wait a day and cover the entire back with silver spray paint. The silver not only gives the silver color to the last open window, but really makes the other colors POP.
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  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430

    Door locks

    My door locks were missing the flip up doors, were very temperamental about working with my worn out keys and the PO had ruined the finish when using the DA to poorly remove the old paint.

    $100 bought two door locks, the ignition lock and two new keys.

    I went ahead and bought a replacement tumbler for the tailgate crank as well.

    Move the actuator arms to the new locks.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    1,430

    Cargo area filler

    Wagons have a tin plate that lives behind the rear seat. This is basically an extension of the cargo bed and is removable so you can access the rear shock tower.

    The top portion of my original plate was rusty, but the bottom was serviceable.

    Steve gave me one with the top portion serviceable, but the bottom was rusty.

    Time to put some chocolate in my peanut butter. A graft is in order.
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